Finally I install the MREV for my 05 6mt, I feel a little better on pick up.
I am thinking about either go with pop charger, but there is a lot more choice now on intake pipe and filter. I wonder if anyone has the secret weapon or the top secret for 350z, or even the blitz sus intake??

 

I have the WR secret weapon and love it, definitely the loudest short ram intake made for our car.
-GP-

 

i have a weapon r 3.5 intake and its for sale now...

 

can you PM me for pricing

 

with the MREV? thx for your reply

 

do a search for mrev under my user name.. lots of detailed posts..

please dont get a weapon R intake..
1. i'd like to see someone dyno that intake vs the OEM air box and see a performance gain.. then i'd like to see it top an OEM air box with a K&N

2. just because its loud and big doesnt mean its better.

3. IMO the design of weapon r's shortram with NO heatshield OR box makes it very =\ thats alot of heat soaking..

4. someone tell me how a 3.5" intake tube benefits our cars in anyway.. especially with mrev which utilizes the mid-high end of the powerband. IMO a 3.5" intake tube will greatly slow down air velocity at low-mid rpm

 

^^ buy the jwt heatsheild used from a member for $20 and that solves yur heatsoak problem (which has no affect while the car is in motion unless you're are driving in traffic) ... gimme a real dyno of all the other intakes showing they have gains over the stock box with k&n drop in. It's all subjective. I have the 3" weapon R so yur arguement on #4 doesnt apply to mine.
-GP-

 

The bigger the diameter if an intake tube, runner, exhaust, or anything will lower the air's velocity at low RPMs.. i'm not sure what the OEM intake size is, i have a z-tube laying around i can measure when i'm home.. now with that said.. the OEM pipe is probably the most streetable (well balanced powerband). On most stock cars.. by going to a smaller diameter pipe then OEM you'll probably loose out on the top end.. by going to a little bigger pipe you'll gain a little more mid and top end (which is what most of us want). but by going too big you're just wasting power (3.5" is big -_-).

mRev exchanges the 05-06MT OEM lower collector with short runners (low velocity, more top end - high rev) for the 03-04 6MT/03-06 5AT long runners (high velocity, low top end). But at the upper 700RPMs the power curve will drop because the engine cant breath enough through the long runners. To fix this we added a 5/16 spacer that gave the plenum more useable air for the top end.. BUT that still caused a drop in the upper RPM.. Tony machined the #1 & 2 cylinder runners to increased the area with the 5/16 and that almost eliminated the power drop (mRev+). Now he has mRev2 which (i assume) is a heavly modified (machined) 03-04 lower collector so you no longer need to depend on the 5/16 spacer for more area.. BUT by adding the 5/16 with mRev2 you'll probably gain even more top end (compaired to mrev2 alone).

now that you know how an engine works.. to get the right amount of power you'll want an intake tube thats of correct diameter for the best power. i've never heard of air traveling towards a smaller tube.. its always small to big.. thats how you achieve max velocity and efficiency. so a 3.5" pipe IS too extreme for a N/A mid-high mid RPM motor..

Plus the design of the weapon-r intake is kinda.. cheap.. they did not bother to make a heat shield to keep the FILTER from getting hot.. and i dont see how you'll benefit from sucking air inside the cab.. for those of you that remembered Church's dyno day where Alex dynoed his incorrectly installed speedforce intake (it was getting air from where the TB was) the leak was so small that the idle was not effected and the engine even ran smooth. that little leak caused him to loose 10whp on his baseline compaired to my baseline and shawn's (host of our dyno day) baseline. all 3 of us have the same car, same day, same dyno, but alex was 10whp lower due to an intake getting hot air.. now you can imagen the wonderful power gain from sucking air INSIDE the engine bay.. you wonder why nissan went to such extents to design our air box.. how the duct extends to the very edge of the grill and hood and how they added an extension to the air box to get even more cool air.. in auto-theory 10degrees = 1% hp. The popcharger with the heat shield already causes a little power loss but for the noise some people are willing to sacrifice that hp. also the design of the popcharger.. how it kinda has a 2nd filter at the very nose of the intake allows it to take advantage of some of the outside air. its true that it doesnt really matter after 30mph.. but then your saying that it doesnt matter how you get off the line on a race...

you also said a k&n filter wont gain HP.. thats not true. a K&N filter will probably gain a few HP... IMO if its not more then 20-30whp your not going to feel it. K&N uses a foam design air filter that allows air to travel through with the least almount of restriction while keeping large and medium size particles out.. now the OEM uses a paper filter.. paper filters are good at keeping large particles out but sucks at small/medium particles.. to fix this OEM puts layers and layers of paper material on top of each other to make the filter.. this is a restriction!! so why wont OEM use a foam filter? cause it cost too damn much and who cares about the 1-5hp.. k&n filters arnt a big increase because of our box design and how it already gets fresh air rammed into it.. if you put an k&n cone on a mustang (mach1) it'll gain 6whp via dyno jet.. proven by me and a few friends..

 

so i'm pretty much telling you to keep the stock setup and just throw in a K&N so you can reuse the filter and its a little better flow.. and if you want more noise then get a z-tube.. that we (me, shawn, tony, and sports z mag) dynoed and showed 0 gains or loss of hp

 

Did Alex ever re-dyno his car after the leak? I'm curious because I found something while polishing my intake.

 

yeah.. it turned out the same as us.. but was still a little lower then our baselines cause the motor had already done a good amount of runs before we realized whats happening.. but then again.. keep in mind that all of our dynos were done with 2 fans (due to the design of our oem bumper... for each duct) with the hood open.. so cold air, popcharger, stock, weapon-r shouldnt make a big difference on a dyno.. but with the hood closed outside on a summer day (Actual driving conditions) is a little different

bet you the dynos would be different if we had the hood closed.. i know a 350z (the blue one that did the plenum shoot out on sports z) didnt have the little foamy piece for his intake and did 5-6hp less then the other stock z. shawn micky moused a temp solution to subsitute.. we found that pretty interesting.. and that was with the hood open O.o

keep in mind that the we werent out there to dyno different intakes that day. we did find out that a z-tube did nothing with back to back to back to back dynos lol..

 

injen with blitz filter

 

Page 48 of the Sport Z Magazine Plenum/Spacer Shootout show the Z-tube added small amount of power to Shawn Church's Coupe. Remember they posted the headings are screwed up on that table. The left column should read Stock, the middle ME Mod and the right column ME & Z-tube. If my math is right the Z-tube added 3 peak HP, lost 0.7 lb-ft peak Torque, added 1.22 Mean HP and 1.37 Mean Torque. I'm told this was with a stock airbox and filter.

 

actually when we dynoed z-tube back and fourth the first run with the z-tube made lower hp.. we figured the engine got hot from the first few pulls.. so we gave it a few min and ran it again and it turned out even with stock g-tube..

can you scan the article? i can host it