BTW - you give ranges like 210-220 for the base motor, and "close to" 230 for the revups. The first time our cars were dyno'd(mine and Cheryl's), I put down 242 to Cheryl's 210. Both were stock down to the air filter.

 

My car did this on that dyno and my car did that on this dyno, blah blah blah. The only REAL dyno is the track.....

 

+1 and the driver (For 6MTs).

 

i dont know bro, i've seen a bunch of revup Gs dyno and they were all in the 238-243rwhp range

i never dynoed my G stock but as of a couple of months ago when i dynoed it was at ~264rwhp w/ all the mods you see in my sig

 

This is with just exhaust and z-tube. It is my car which is a 04 model. And they were other G35s there both coupe and sedan that were dynoing around 220-230 range. There are some cars that run stronger than the others for following reasons which have been proven by me and 5 other cars. DRIVING it hard from day one!
This is on dynojet

And on dynapack with same mods I dynoed 262. So i dont think both times the dyno got screwed up and dynoed only my car unusally high.

 

I am not trying to make up the number or anything.... I saw the number with my naked eyes.... stock 2006 5AT with FI exhaust put down around 224hps on the same day.... while stock 06 06MT got 246hps... you can call it "bull" if you want, but it's the FACT.....

 

The person who tuned my car set up my car (04 AT sedan) to run 14:1 at around 4k rpm and slowly taper down to about 13.2:1 at redline. These are ratios taken from the tailpipe. The A/F before 4k is hard to categorize accurately, since the automatic transmission doesn't always fully engage (for lack of the correct terminology) until around that rpm range.

Take that for what it's worth, since others may say I'm still running too lean for their likings. For me, I trust my tuner explicity and I asked for a "safe" tune over absolute power. So I'm fine with the A/F ratios he dialed in for me.

As for larger injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I don't think they're needed in your case yet. Others have been supporting some good (270+ whp) numbers on stock injectors. Unless you're going radical with a built N/A engine, I don't think you'd need them. If I recall correctly, the returnless fuel system on the G wouldn't work properly with a fuel pressure regulator. You'd need a return fuel system. Again, I could be wrong, but regardless I don't think you'd need it for an N/A engine with bolt-ons.

 

you guys are comparing apples to oranges...

you can't compare numbers from two different dynos...

even the same dyno will produce different numbers on different days

 

thanks for the advise/info.

your statement about the returnless fuel system may be correct. I know the fuel return system from AAM converts the G to a full return system and includes a fuel pressure regulator. im going to do some research to verify your statement.

its your G so you have the right to run as rich/lean as you please. "safe" is cool. since i have a drift capable 1995 FWD dodge neon im going for all the power i can get. I'm going to have to borrow some Petroleum from our good ol friend Bush when my tune is complete!!! And on days when i don't feel like talking to George i'll drive my Drift neon!!!!

 

No need for larger injectors or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. You will not be able to adjust AFR's at different rpm points with an AFPR, it will add/subract fuel accross the board.

 

fuel pressure regulator = logically it regulates fuel

ECU = logically it controls AFR and timing

Tire = contacts the road when you drive

Break pedal = makes the break pads contact the rotors

The only reason i suggested an adjustable fuel pressure regulator was in case the motor was running lean due to a lack of fuel. we established it isnt necessary. i think we're trying to find out if we can even use one with our returnless fuel system. (not that its necessary)