if you made the vent for the short ram why dont you just get real sized CAI?

 

Yes, but you have to be holding the shop vac either in the water or at least 1-2 inches above the water. The shop vac also doesn't have the option to get air from anywhere else except the attachment that you hold.

In this case you would have a standard short ram air intake and then a tube that that mount 3-4 inches below the short ram, that means if just the fact duct was flooded with water that the air intake would have to suck water up 2 feet of pipe from the flood line. Now that being said what about the surround areas that the air intake can get air from? Some how to get water lifted 2 feet from a flood line into the engine the air intakes vacuum force would have to be only applied in the face duct tube...it would not be sucked from anywhere else, which is not the case. The short ram intake can suck from the top, left, right behind, and bottom with equals amount of vacuum force. IMO it is just not possible to hydro lock the engine with this set up… unless you are managing to go at speeds where the inlet would act as a "cannon" and force the water up the tube directly into the filter. For this to happen you would have to be almost speeding in a flooded area, which I think many of us wouldn’t do...

-Sean

 

People have locked their engine while creeping though standing water. If you happened to drive though a puddle and spash enough water up to the intake, you're done. Especially if you have a CAI that's mounted low.

I'm not sure why you think it's impossible for someone to lock their engine even with a stock setup. A buddy of mine did just that with his Firebird V8. Just happened to hit some water just right at the wrong time. Not speeding nor was the water especially deep

 

I didn't say it was impossible, and i said why it is possible. Its just the chances of this happening are very very low. I live in florida with a Injen CAI and no bypass valve and havn't had any problems for about 2 1/2 years now. We also get more rain than just about any other state in the US...

-Sean

 

It happens more than you realize.

 

+1...

Nismo G, if you search the subject you will see what we are saying...

 

I am NOT saying that you guys are wrong, jesus. I have been on here for idk how long maybe a year and i have read about atleast 10 guys locking their engines. Im just saying that its not going to happen that easily, the chances of you locking your engine with this set up is not as high as you make it sound...

-Sean

 

It's more common than you think. 10 is a miniscule # compared to # that actually hydrolock their engines. G/Z/ other cars. This site represents a miniscule # of total G owners.

 

Sean don't let them **** you off. BTW........... I hate you. I have this in my car right now!!!! NO HYDROLOCK so far!!! You know, your maf will blow when you get water that high up killing the engine. Now depending on what you ran through will determine if you get hydrolock or not. I had a Injen on the car I had before and was forced into a huge puddle by some retard on the freeway. It was so deep that water came over the hood of the car. My first reaction was to stick the clutch in, that was if water did actually get in, hopefully when compression stoke happen the motor would stop dead. Can anyone explain what "Hydrolock" really is? What happens when you have a hydrolocked engine? I bet a lot are wrong!!!

 

My guess of hydrolock is when water enters the cylinder chamber. The cylinder/rod bends from the water’s new real estate as the engine attempts to complete its cycle.

 

Here's my quick guess:

Hydrostatic lock, hydraulic lock or hydrolock occurs when liquids, typically water, enter an engine cylinder. This can occur from a coolant, oil or fuel leak, but the chief cause is drawing water into the engine through the air induction system (airbox & filter, ducting, throttle body or carburetor, intake manifold). Internal combustion engines (spark or compression ignition) operating on a two-stroke or four-stroke cycle must employ a compression stroke to compress the charge (usually an air/fuel mixture). Liquids are incompressible; the presence of a liquid in the engine cylinder during the compression stroke generates destructively high cylinder pressures.

Abnormally high cylinder pressures can bend and break pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, crankshafts and ruin bearings and can crack or break cylinder heads and engine blocks. Small amounts of liquids may pass through an engine cycle without damage, but volumes exceeding 40cc (1.4 fluid ounces, <3 tablespoons) will cause many engines to develop cylinder pressures well in excess of 1000psi. A larger volume of water, up to the combustion chamber volume (usually 60cc to 100cc), will generate increasingly high cylinder pressure during the completion of the compression stroke. Volumes of water which exceed the combustion chamber volume will "stop" a running engine through true hydrostatic lock. Something expensive always bends or breaks when this happens.

Hydrolock may occur while the engine is running, the work of the compression stroke being supplied by engine's rotational inertia. Or a liquid may leak into the cylinder while the engine is being stored; the work of the compression stroke will be supplied by the starter motor.

Hydrolock is not a new problem, but it only affected certain applications. Older American made cars, particularly with V-configuration engines, often employed an air intake location which was high in the engine compartment. Because of the reduced tendency of these older American cars to hydrolock, it has not been in the forefront of design consideration and is not a household term.

Most newer, fuel injected cars have the air intake located low in the engine compartment. The objective of this low air intake is to draw cool air into the engine. Unfortunately, when driving through sufficiently deep standing or splashing water, engine vacuum from the intake stroke will suck water into the engine, particularly if the intake is submerged.

 

Copy and paste??? But with Sean's drawing and my ghetto set-up there is a gap in between. I have about 7 inches to the filter and if my engine can ingest water enough to cause hydrolock, then I'll buy a new motor. In seriousness I doubt I'll have trouble and I also don't doubt that some will lock there motor by taking it swimming.