I guess no power adders all of the engines had higher compression and all were putting down 290+ NA the G was 329 NA.

 

I love how my AEM CAI looks. I got the blue one since my G is blue. The sound it makes is great too. A sweetly audible hiss in the lower rpms and a nice tough growl when you open her up at the highs. As far as performance goes, I'm not sure. Its the only performance mod I've done so far. I've always felt like I could feel that slight little "umph" after I installed it, but I might just be looking too hard lol. The feeling is very similar to but not as drastic as the difference in the pull when you use 87 octane gas vs 93 octane. That I KNOW I feel. The pulls even sound different to be between octane gases. I've also heard of the short fat straw vs long skinny straw point. They way I understood the theory was the short straw is capable of moving more air but at a slower rate, while the long straw moves less air but at a faster rate. Hp vs tq comparison maybe? Plus, I'm very confident that I'm getting the most out of it since all the air is coming from the front bumper and not the heat trapping engine bay like short rams do. My next install will be the plenum spacers

 

I have a 06 6mt rev up so i read through all this are we saying z tube stock box and k&n or that ype of filter is the best. I am going to be doing a dyno day here in the spring if anyone wants to see how the rev does? Pm me

 

The best write... in the forums... thanks a lot for this info's...

 

So just get a new OEM filter and make more than most of the alternatives

 

Ok.

This is a super, super old thread. ANd has TONS of great information in it.

But I have to just throw this out there...

I've just read this entire thread, and I see so much information, and so much BS calling, I don't know truly what to take in.

Just today, I installed a 5/16ths spacer, z-tube, and a K&N drop in filter.

Should I not have thrown in the z-tube? SHould I go back to stock? Or did I pick a good combo here.

Also, should I ECU reset on this after installing these three things? I am not a novice to cars, but I will admit I am fairly new to these engines/cars.

A little help, or pointing me to a proper thread that might address this, would be awesome. I've spent a good portion of time searching the forum for some information and I keep coming back here.

 

That's a fine combo, and pretty common combo, nothing wrong with it. The Z tube is better than the stock G tube just due it's simplicity in design (straight through to the throttle body instead of the quieting baffles the G uses which disrupt airflow). So you're fine, as far as parts goes. If you have a rev-up (05+ 6MT coupe, Sedans - I can never remember) you may also have the upgraded airbox which has a velocity stack and helps a bit also.

It's never a bad idea to do the ECU resets when changing parts. Either pull the negative terminal off the battery for 10 minutes or do the more in depth pedal resets (recommended, but timing may take a few tries to get right and can be frustrating until you get it down).

This thread was great for it's time, and there is a lot of good info in it, but there's also a few newer developments / discoveries / parts available that weren't when this was written. With the oversized throttle bodies out from NWP and larger intake tubes (3.5-4") being used there's more power to be made than there was (easily) in 2010. But the information he provided on the options listed is still pretty much right on. Just not the end of the story for everyone today.

 

I do not have the rev-up. But I still love the car.

I've definitely noticed a difference in the car, especially in the 4k plus range. Not like, wheels snapping loose and drifting around corners difference, but a slight butt dyno kick. I'm not complaining. Especially since I got the spacer and ztube for $170. My ztube is silver though... is that right?

And tell me more about these different throttle bodies... I know those can be a source of power, but didn't know how these cars responded to them.

 

It could be silver, black, or carbon fiber, all depends on who made it. Most "z-tubes" now don't actually come out of a Z, but instead are based on the OEM design and made by someone else. It's still basically the same thing though. Other thing I asked about the rev-up for was that if you had one you might want to consider a MREV2 lower plenum as well, but you've basically got that already with the stock non-rev lower, so all you're missing is the airbox, but whether or not that's truly significant I can only guess.

On throttle bodies: There's a company called NWP Engineering that is now making a kit to fit a 75mm throttle body instead of the stock 70ish mm throttle body. So stock throttle body's surface area is 3846.5(ish)mm^2 and the NWP TB is 4415.625(ish) mm^2. What that means is the ability to feed more air into the plenum. That's awesome, in theory, up to a point though. There have been guys that have exceeded the available air volume the stock plenum can hold (even NA) which is where the spacers come in. They open up an extra bit of room for air volume to feed into the engine. Of course there are other designs, that with the right components in the build, can be more effective but there's no 1 size is awesome for all and that's where you get the arguments about why or why not use a Cosworth, Kinetix, SFR, etc. etc. other plenum style. But I got kind of off topic there, sorry about that. In addition to the throttle body allowing more air into the plenum the other thing you're missing is feeding more air into the throttle body. There's a reason this thread had to be created - there were a ton of options out there and none of them were really doing a whole hell of a lot. The reason behind that is that they're all roughly the same size. They're all basically 3" tubes feeding from an airbox / filter so they're all essentially feeding the same amount of air into the throttle body. How you do better is increasing the size of the intake tube, much like you would with a larger throttle body. Now the obvious question is - well why the hell didn't someone make a larger tube? Simple. Our MAF (mass air flow sensor, what measures the amount of air flow coming in that tube and tells the ECU how much air is available to make power) is right past the airbox and is in a 3" tube of its own. If you increase the size of that tube the MAF then thinks it's getting significantly less air blowing past it and the ECU doesn't know what the hell is going on. So if you go up in a size on the tube but not the MAF housing to avoid it, you've just made a bottle neck and jacked up any positive flow characteristics that would have resulted. You need to upgrade the size of the MAF housing as well, but that requires retuning the engine and it's no longer a plug and play piece, so harder to market.

There have been a few limited production run / one-off 3.5" intake tubes lately and I'm sure we'll be seeing more of them as guys begin to understand that the VQs are just like every other internal combustion engine and need air to make power, but as of today people are still sketpical of anything new and different, and that's why the majority of NA "builds" (re: simple bolt ons) on this platform fail to break 280whp. But eventually they'll start to get it.

There's more out there than what normally gets discussed here but don't let this be the end of your research. Spend some time on my350, and some of the Facebook V35Coupe / G35 pages as well and get some different viewpoints before you just take anyone's word for it (including mine!).

 

Can't the MAF problem be fixed by reprogramming the ECU? Or using aftermarket ECU?

 

That's what he just said lol

 

Emphasis added

 

 

Probably doesn't help the confusion that NWP has this listed right on their website when talking about the part.

"100% Plug and Play. No tuning or portwork required."

 

The throttle body itself may be plug and play as long as you're using the stock MAF, but it's much more useful if you upgrade the size of the entire intake including the MAF body which requires a retune