What part of the 5/16 spacer is this?
#1
10-01-2013, 03:33 PM
What part of the 5/16 spacer is this?
Well.. after finally picking up my car from the shop today after 2-3 days of it being there for installations of some parts... they told me this part of the motordyne spacers doesnt fit in my 2003 g35?
What does this part do? And is it neccessary to have in my car for the full performance of the 5/16 spacers?
#2
10-01-2013, 06:45 PM
It does fit. It goes between the intake manifold and the throttle body. The idea is that you mount it between them with the copper side facing the throttle body and insulated gasket facing the intake manifold. Then you remove the coolant lines that heat the throttle body and install them onto that piece. This still allows the throttle body to warm up with coolant in cold weather but keeps heat from spreading the intake manifold. This is to work in conjuntion with an iso-thermal gasket between the lower intake manifold and the mid-intake manifold piece.
see here: http://www.motordyneengineering.com/...b44d53102a4eb0
as for necessary, it depends on your climate. I don't run it because i put a valve in those coolant lines to close them off so coolant doesn't flow at all. Its not necessary to heat the throttle body in FL winters.
see here: http://www.motordyneengineering.com/...b44d53102a4eb0
as for necessary, it depends on your climate. I don't run it because i put a valve in those coolant lines to close them off so coolant doesn't flow at all. Its not necessary to heat the throttle body in FL winters.
Last edited by UCIMAplaya2; 10-01-2013 at 06:50 PM.
#3
10-01-2013, 07:22 PM
It does fit. It goes between the intake manifold and the throttle body. The idea is that you mount it between them with the copper side facing the throttle body and insulated gasket facing the intake manifold. Then you remove the coolant lines that heat the throttle body and install them onto that piece. This still allows the throttle body to warm up with coolant in cold weather but keeps heat from spreading the intake manifold. This is to work in conjuntion with an iso-thermal gasket between the lower intake manifold and the mid-intake manifold piece.
see here: http://www.motordyneengineering.com/...b44d53102a4eb0
as for necessary, it depends on your climate. I don't run it because i put a valve in those coolant lines to close them off so coolant doesn't flow at all. Its not necessary to heat the throttle body in FL winters.
see here: http://www.motordyneengineering.com/...b44d53102a4eb0
as for necessary, it depends on your climate. I don't run it because i put a valve in those coolant lines to close them off so coolant doesn't flow at all. Its not necessary to heat the throttle body in FL winters.
I should of never trusted this place.. seemed sketchty but apparently alot of g35 drivers from brooklyn area went to him..
#4
10-01-2013, 07:32 PM
#5
10-01-2013, 07:38 PM
Is there any downsides to not having this installed? Cause im most likely gonna be charged a hour worth of a labor for this -___- and I dont wanna go back to that old mechanic cause they are all douchey there
#6
10-01-2013, 07:42 PM
well without it or a valve to block coolant to that area of the intake manifold, it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation. Now if they couldn't figure out how to install that piece, what is to say they even installed the lower gasket and didn't just do the spacer in the middle? It's more sad that you had to pay for that piece and aren't using it. There are kits that don't come with the iso-thermal option and are just the spacer and they cost significantly less. As for how to install it, that manual gives step by step instructions.
Too bad you aren't local, I have done it in the past for a case of quality beer.
Too bad you aren't local, I have done it in the past for a case of quality beer.
#7
10-01-2013, 07:48 PM
well without it or a valve to block coolant to that area of the intake manifold, it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation. Now if they couldn't figure out how to install that piece, what is to say they even installed the lower gasket and didn't just do the spacer in the middle? It's more sad that you had to pay for that piece and aren't using it. There are kits that don't come with the iso-thermal option and are just the spacer and they cost significantly less. As for how to install it, that manual gives step by step instructions.
Too bad you aren't local, I have done it in the past for a case of quality beer.
Too bad you aren't local, I have done it in the past for a case of quality beer.
And yes, i know the manual gives step by step instructions, but I dont have any tools to do it, nor do I have 2-3 hours to learn either.. thats why most of the time im just dropping off my car, doing work then picking it up lol
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#8
10-01-2013, 10:27 PM
Instead of generalizing that this "may not be needed," I will throw in some facts that I heard from a personal phone call to Tony from Motordyne Engineering himself this afternoon.
Quote1: "it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation"
No, before the installation, the coolant and lower aramid gasket are heating the WHOLE plenum. With the ISO THERMAL aramid gasket in place of the old INTAKE MANIFOLD gasket, heat transfer is reduced to the lower collector (MREV2 location FYI). Therefore, the heating of the upper plenum and the TB is reduced during all periods of temperature.
The insulated Copper TB spacer (omg increased hp from TB spacer) "coolant line" has the insulated side and the bare copper side. The insulated side sits up against the upper plenum for reduced heat transfer. The upper plenum is the only "isolated part" from heat sources in this assembly we look at.
Why do you NEED this? Tony went further to say without the TB heater, the TB would stay much cooler at operating temperature in freezing conditions. Because the temperature of the TB is lower then OEM spec, the TB has the opportunity to freeze open (usually on interstate travel)l. This causes the engine to run lean (lack of gasoline, overdose of air) and can cause the car to stall. Stalling is not something you want....
Quote 2: "but I dont have any tools to do it, nor do I have 2-3 hours to learn either."
Installation is as simple as taking off the Z-tube, TB screws, etc... there are youtube videos. I will be installing this again on my car soon and will make a video if you would like. You need a 4mm allan tool and a flat blade screwdriver. It should take 30 minutes.
Hope this helps!
Quote1: "it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation"
No, before the installation, the coolant and lower aramid gasket are heating the WHOLE plenum. With the ISO THERMAL aramid gasket in place of the old INTAKE MANIFOLD gasket, heat transfer is reduced to the lower collector (MREV2 location FYI). Therefore, the heating of the upper plenum and the TB is reduced during all periods of temperature.
The insulated Copper TB spacer (omg increased hp from TB spacer) "coolant line" has the insulated side and the bare copper side. The insulated side sits up against the upper plenum for reduced heat transfer. The upper plenum is the only "isolated part" from heat sources in this assembly we look at.
Why do you NEED this? Tony went further to say without the TB heater, the TB would stay much cooler at operating temperature in freezing conditions. Because the temperature of the TB is lower then OEM spec, the TB has the opportunity to freeze open (usually on interstate travel)l. This causes the engine to run lean (lack of gasoline, overdose of air) and can cause the car to stall. Stalling is not something you want...
.Quote 2: "but I dont have any tools to do it, nor do I have 2-3 hours to learn either."
Installation is as simple as taking off the Z-tube, TB screws, etc... there are youtube videos. I will be installing this again on my car soon and will make a video if you would like. You need a 4mm allan tool and a flat blade screwdriver. It should take 30 minutes.
Hope this helps!
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g35fnatic (10-01-2013)
#9
10-01-2013, 10:39 PM
Instead of generalizing that this "may not be needed," I will throw in some facts that I heard from a personal phone call to Tony from Motordyne Engineering himself this afternoon.
Quote1: "it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation"
No, before the installation, the coolant and lower aramid gasket are heating the WHOLE plenum. With the ISO THERMAL aramid gasket in place of the old INTAKE MANIFOLD gasket, heat transfer is reduced to the lower collector (MREV2 location FYI). Therefore, the heating of the upper plenum and the TB is reduced during all periods of temperature.
The insulated Copper TB spacer (omg increased hp from TB spacer) "coolant line" has the insulated side and the bare copper side. The insulated side sits up against the upper plenum for reduced heat transfer. The upper plenum is the only "isolated part" from heat sources in this assembly we look at.
Why do you NEED this? Tony went further to say without the TB heater, the TB would stay much cooler at operating temperature in freezing conditions. Because the temperature of the TB is lower then OEM spec, the TB has the opportunity to freeze open (usually on interstate travel)l. This causes the engine to run lean (lack of gasoline, overdose of air) and can cause the car to stall. Stalling is not something you want....
Quote 2: "but I dont have any tools to do it, nor do I have 2-3 hours to learn either."
Installation is as simple as taking off the Z-tube, TB screws, etc... there are youtube videos. I will be installing this again on my car soon and will make a video if you would like. You need a 4mm allan tool and a flat blade screwdriver. It should take 30 minutes.
Hope this helps!
Quote1: "it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation"
No, before the installation, the coolant and lower aramid gasket are heating the WHOLE plenum. With the ISO THERMAL aramid gasket in place of the old INTAKE MANIFOLD gasket, heat transfer is reduced to the lower collector (MREV2 location FYI). Therefore, the heating of the upper plenum and the TB is reduced during all periods of temperature.
The insulated Copper TB spacer (omg increased hp from TB spacer) "coolant line" has the insulated side and the bare copper side. The insulated side sits up against the upper plenum for reduced heat transfer. The upper plenum is the only "isolated part" from heat sources in this assembly we look at.
Why do you NEED this? Tony went further to say without the TB heater, the TB would stay much cooler at operating temperature in freezing conditions. Because the temperature of the TB is lower then OEM spec, the TB has the opportunity to freeze open (usually on interstate travel)l. This causes the engine to run lean (lack of gasoline, overdose of air) and can cause the car to stall. Stalling is not something you want...
.Quote 2: "but I dont have any tools to do it, nor do I have 2-3 hours to learn either."
Installation is as simple as taking off the Z-tube, TB screws, etc... there are youtube videos. I will be installing this again on my car soon and will make a video if you would like. You need a 4mm allan tool and a flat blade screwdriver. It should take 30 minutes.
Hope this helps!
, thats kinda scary to think about having my car actually stall on the interstate =o..this is off topic but since your here i might as well ask lol!
i was thinking about getting a MD xyz/hfc pipe since i wanna keep my stock exhaust sound, is it possible to have both the xyz/hfc pipe AND MD art pipes? i wanna make my car a bit louder, just nothing to loud like a full cat exhaust would make it
#10
10-01-2013, 11:19 PM
You always come to my threads with the best answers , thats kinda scary to think about having my car actually stall on the interstate =o..
Haha, Thanks!
this is off topic but since your here i might as well ask lol!
i was thinking about getting a MD xyz/hfc pipe since i wanna keep my stock exhaust sound, is it possible to have both the xyz/hfc pipe AND MD art pipes? i wanna make my car a bit louder, just nothing to loud like a full cat exhaust would make it
, thats kinda scary to think about having my car actually stall on the interstate =o..Haha, Thanks!
this is off topic but since your here i might as well ask lol!
i was thinking about getting a MD xyz/hfc pipe since i wanna keep my stock exhaust sound, is it possible to have both the xyz/hfc pipe AND MD art pipes? i wanna make my car a bit louder, just nothing to loud like a full cat exhaust would make it
It goes A-B-C... You are saying you want A-B-B-C. You get to choose the ART pipes or the HFC... Resonated TPs are a work of art. XYZ is something that goes after the other parts listed. It will be much louder. NO RASP too (that nasty metal clanging sound). HFC is legal and if you get tested for emissions in your state I would highly recommend these. Both increase exhaust volume.
As for the exhaust note, replacing the muffler is the ultimate sound changer. If you change the muffler say goodbye to the token Infiniti note.
#11
10-01-2013, 11:36 PM
Headers = A, HFC/TP = B, Cat back = C.
It goes A-B-C... You are saying you want A-B-B-C. You get to choose the ART pipes or the HFC... Resonated TPs are a work of art. XYZ is something that goes after the other parts listed. It will be much louder. NO RASP too (that nasty metal clanging sound). HFC is legal and if you get tested for emissions in your state I would highly recommend these. Both increase exhaust volume.
As for the exhaust note, replacing the muffler is the ultimate sound changer. If you change the muffler say goodbye to the token Infiniti note.
It goes A-B-C... You are saying you want A-B-B-C. You get to choose the ART pipes or the HFC... Resonated TPs are a work of art. XYZ is something that goes after the other parts listed. It will be much louder. NO RASP too (that nasty metal clanging sound). HFC is legal and if you get tested for emissions in your state I would highly recommend these. Both increase exhaust volume.
As for the exhaust note, replacing the muffler is the ultimate sound changer. If you change the muffler say goodbye to the token Infiniti note.
Im seriously considering on buying this
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...769.115.165.33
then going straight for a osiris tune after this lol, i also live in NYC so they do run the emission tests so i guess i wont get the art pipes.. cause i also heard they make you smell your fumes when you come to stop lights/car startup etc.
edit: and also i didnt need to type thank you, i pressed the thank you button
#12
10-02-2013, 12:09 AM
Looks like my old knowledge of these systems failed me haha.. thats a great combination. There is a small chance it could throw a code although! Looks like you should get a tune. To be clear, YOU CAN DO ART PIPES WITH XYZ HFC PIPE. Waste of money IMO. Yes you will get fumes and unless you can mask O2 sensors you are in trouble!
Layout is header... Catylic Converter... XYZ (HFC can be included here)... Cat back Exhaust.
Check this:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...st-hanger.html
Quote from OBSessed:
Layout is header... Catylic Converter... XYZ (HFC can be included here)... Cat back Exhaust.
Check this:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...st-hanger.html
Quote from OBSessed:
Couple answers for you. We do have 2 cats (one attached to each exhaust manifold before the Y-pipe). You will fail emissions testing with the ART pipes without some work, and depending on whether or not your state/county does visual inspections. The ART pipes do have O2 sensor bungs (if you look closely at the pics on the MD site you can see them. The XYZ HFC module does not appear to have bungs for O2 sensors but either way it's not difficult do extend the O2 sensor wires (it's 4 wires if I remember right, cut and splice in a longer section, then heat wrap and you're good).
A lot of your concerns (aside from the visual inspection, if there is one and the person even knows what they're looking at) can be addressed with Osiris, or similar tune. It's possible to fool the computer into think everything's OK and it won't throw codes which is what many states are looking for.
AND LATER
It will be fine after the tune, but before the tune I don't know. I don't have ART pipes on my car so I don't know if they throw a code or not. If you're very worried I would say either hold off until the next inspection is done or hurry up and get it tuned lol.
There's also a sticky thread for the ART pipes where that particular question might have been answered, might want to check it out if you haven't already, or post this specific question there.]
A lot of your concerns (aside from the visual inspection, if there is one and the person even knows what they're looking at) can be addressed with Osiris, or similar tune. It's possible to fool the computer into think everything's OK and it won't throw codes which is what many states are looking for.
AND LATER
It will be fine after the tune, but before the tune I don't know. I don't have ART pipes on my car so I don't know if they throw a code or not. If you're very worried I would say either hold off until the next inspection is done or hurry up and get it tuned lol.
There's also a sticky thread for the ART pipes where that particular question might have been answered, might want to check it out if you haven't already, or post this specific question there.]
#13
10-02-2013, 12:43 PM
Looks like my old knowledge of these systems failed me haha.. thats a great combination. There is a small chance it could throw a code although! Looks like you should get a tune. To be clear, YOU CAN DO ART PIPES WITH XYZ HFC PIPE. Waste of money IMO. Yes you will get fumes and unless you can mask O2 sensors you are in trouble!
Layout is header... Catylic Converter... XYZ (HFC can be included here)... Cat back Exhaust.
Check this:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...st-hanger.html
Quote from OBSessed:
Layout is header... Catylic Converter... XYZ (HFC can be included here)... Cat back Exhaust.
Check this:
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...st-hanger.html
Quote from OBSessed:
#15
10-02-2013, 07:19 PM
Instead of generalizing that this "may not be needed," I will throw in some facts that I heard from a personal phone call to Tony from Motordyne Engineering himself this afternoon.
Quote1: "it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation"
No, before the installation, the coolant and lower aramid gasket are heating the WHOLE plenum. With the ISO THERMAL aramid gasket in place of the old INTAKE MANIFOLD gasket, heat transfer is reduced to the lower collector (MREV2 location FYI). Therefore, the heating of the upper plenum and the TB is reduced during all periods of temperature.
The insulated Copper TB spacer (omg increased hp from TB spacer) "coolant line" has the insulated side and the bare copper side. The insulated side sits up against the upper plenum for reduced heat transfer. The upper plenum is the only "isolated part" from heat sources in this assembly we look at.
Why do you NEED this? Tony went further to say without the TB heater, the TB would stay much cooler at operating temperature in freezing conditions. Because the temperature of the TB is lower then OEM spec, the TB has the opportunity to freeze open (usually on interstate travel)l. This causes the engine to run lean (lack of gasoline, overdose of air) and can cause the car to stall. Stalling is not something you want....
Quote1: "it makes the lower gasket pointless when it comes to increased thermal isolation"
No, before the installation, the coolant and lower aramid gasket are heating the WHOLE plenum. With the ISO THERMAL aramid gasket in place of the old INTAKE MANIFOLD gasket, heat transfer is reduced to the lower collector (MREV2 location FYI). Therefore, the heating of the upper plenum and the TB is reduced during all periods of temperature.
The insulated Copper TB spacer (omg increased hp from TB spacer) "coolant line" has the insulated side and the bare copper side. The insulated side sits up against the upper plenum for reduced heat transfer. The upper plenum is the only "isolated part" from heat sources in this assembly we look at.
Why do you NEED this? Tony went further to say without the TB heater, the TB would stay much cooler at operating temperature in freezing conditions. Because the temperature of the TB is lower then OEM spec, the TB has the opportunity to freeze open (usually on interstate travel)l. This causes the engine to run lean (lack of gasoline, overdose of air) and can cause the car to stall. Stalling is not something you want...
.