Thanks to all, especially the original poster for this simple, inexpensive fix. The pictures and supplemental hints made this a breeze to fix my '03 G-35. Door lock failed at 65M, this should get me to 100M.

 

mine failed at 25k miles, 2003 but shes been going strong now at 30k miles

 

I just got this in both of my doors today. Works great!
If anybody needs help with this in So Cal hit me up, it's a piece of cake now.
That first time is a pain, but after that, hella easy.

 

Just got my doors fixed this weekend. Thanks pythonjosh for doing the install.

Works just like new.

 

Thanks Hong!
I did some research and you have what we call a 2003.5 (a late year 2003 with same center console as 2004).
If the actuators ever give you any attitude hit me up and I'll replace em for ya for free.

 

Do you fly to the east coast for repairs? lol. Nice thread. My passenger side is dead so I will be doing this mod. Thanks.

 

Can you please update/report or anyone else please? Would really love to do this since I have the same issue

 

I can make the bracket and do all the metal cutting for ya.
You'll have to the door panel modifications.
Interested?

 

Any feedback on long these actuators last for?

I am about to buy 2, and then install the other side when the stock one goes bad! LOL My stock one went bad already.


Also, question on the wiring. I am thinking of just buying pigtails for the 2 wires I have to tap into, and then just plugging that to the actuator connections. I will solder that connection to know it won't fail.

Also question on the Rod, I just reuse the stock one right? Whats the issue I am hearing with slack? I just gotta make sure after I make that hole, it can move freely right? Should I put anything for sound absorbance, or anything to make sure it 'works like stock' and wont sound cheap??

 

You should get female bullet connectors. The actuators come with male bullet connectors on it already.
The good part is if they do fail someday, you won't have to deal with cutting or soldering and heatshrinking.
Yea do that to the wires that you put the female bullet connectors on to, that's long term.
If the actuator fails, that's just another $5, still beats OEM no contest.
No sound deadening/dynamat is necessary. You'll actually love to hear them work lol.
But they're not "loud" tho. The only difference is that the OEM actuator is inside of the door frame, and the new one is going to be mounted in the door panel.
If you have any issues with the install let me know. I've done a total of 5 so far.

 

One more thing, I am confused about the rod with the connection to the actuators. Is there any changes of the length of the rod to it that has to be done? Is disconnecting it to the stock actuator hard? And you should make sure that it fits tight with the actuator right? Or have some slack?

 

The rod comes with the actuator and will need to be cut to fit our application.
I used a hacksaw and then a grinder/buffer to smooth it out.
You want to save this step until you have the actuator mounted on your bracket, and on your door panel.
Because you will be measuring the distance between the actuator and the door handle/lock.
The length of the rod is dependent on where the actuator is mounted on your bracket.
So mount the actuator first, then size up the rod with the actuator fully extended, and mark it so that it goes all the way inside of the manual lock chamber, no shorter.
Measure twice, cut once.

 

Got the actuator for $5.50 shipped from eBay - came in two days

Wire taps for $2 from radio shack

Metal piece for $1 at home depot (the brace it came with wasn't long enough)

Started the install but got busy. Will post pics soon.

 

mine had stopped working due to one of the clamp screws coming loose, but i fixed it with teflon thread tape

 

Does anyone have the pics to do this.. The pics are down and me and my buddy tried to tackle this last night but needed the pics to finish..