AWESOME JOSH . thanks a lot as both my locks are fawked

 

can someone just explain to me what that tab we are suppose to cut out does? if you grind it down then can u still install an oem actuator if the $5 one starts to act up?

 

Yes you can, however it will need something to keep the door lock cable in the switch.
If the $5 one fails, just spend another $5 on another one. It would take replacing the $5 one a hundred times to be not "worth it" compared to replacing the oem actuator.

 

If anyone doesn't want to deal with making the mounting bracket, I have complete kits available in the marketplace: https://g35driver.com/forums/marketp...g35-coupe.html
Just need a 4mm drill bit (and drill), large and regular phillips head screwdrivers, and wire crimpers/cutters.
My videos should explain the install for you, and I am always available to answer questions.

 

thanks op.. going to give this a try...

 

Which wire are you supposed to cut for the OEM Actuator?

 

Blue and purple wires (not the light blue)

 

Great job with the video pythonjosh!

 

Your welcome guys.
FYI, the other little wires in the driver side door, lead to the key lock to provide function to roll the windows up/down from holding the key in lock/unlock position in the door.

 

Hi, I know this post is rather old. I can't see any of the pics. . can you post or send to me in email? I am having the same problem with my 2004 MT G35, driver side door only wont unlock with the key fob. .

natashat100@hotmail.com

Thanks!

 

Videos are posted on page 11: https://g35driver.com/forums/interio...ml#post5277255

 

DUDE thanksss so much... just got this done today because i didnt feel like spending 200 at the dealer.. all i spent was about 10 dollars and it worked perfectly. You are a life saver!

 

This project sucked, I hated it.. But the next time I do it, I will know exactly what to do. I would buy the actuator kit from pythonjosh before I start this because if you didn't have a metal cutter and the right rod, you will have ALOT of difficulty. Thanks for the help JOSH!

 

I bought the actuator kit from the original site posted. It was pretty simple to adjust, just cut the rod enough so it fits. I used a small little metal cutter and it took a while to cut it, but it got it done. I even wired the wires wrong, the door would lock when i wanted it to open so i just switched the wires up and it worked correctly. Its all about making adjustments.. trial and error!

 

I agree but I still hated this project.. Took me a long time to get both my doors done. I think my main problem was that I didn't have the right rod to work with in the first place where the aftermarket actuator mounts on to and that my doors had raamaat PLUS ensolite on them. So when I first mounted the rod on to the panels, my actuator would rub against the ensolite making it fail to lock or unlock the door. (When I first tried to test it, I thought that it wasn't working because the clamp was griding against a metal that the door panel screws in to.. so I CUT that for no reason and it still did that. This took me a lot of thinking of why it wasn't working) and.... then I had to go back and make NEW holes in the stupid rod and new holes in the door panel to make it work again. I don't know if I made sense but I completly hated this project what so ever. But I definitly know what to do next time