Hello,
The vehicle is a 2004 G35 Sedan with a 6 speed manual. I believe it is a "Sport" as the shocks and struts are red and it has the Factory spoiler on the rear.
Car is 100% stock with no modifications.
Car has 83,000 miles.
My issue is that the Tachometer is slow to respond. It does represent an accurate speed of the engine but when revving "quickly" the guage is slow to catch up.
If I am in neutral and give it a good amount of gas you can hear the engine climb rapidly but the tach will only slowly move up to the correct rpm. Same thing if I hold the engine at say 4,000 rpm and then let off the accelerator you can hear the engine is back down to idle but the tachometer will take a few extra seconds to go back down to 800 rpm to so.
Also during sprite driving it's hard to tell what the actual RPM of the engine is when in low gears such as first and second. Very concerning.
All the other guage inside the cluster work great, even the fuel level which I have read is a common issue. Mine has been accurate the whole time I've owned the vehicle.
My first thought is that a ground for the guage cluster may be corroded because the vehicle sat on a dealer lot for 7 months before I purchased it. I live in WA state so it can be cold during the winter.
I haven't been able to find any information about a gauge cluster ground and with all my research I have not found anyone describing the same issue I am having.
Maybe the needle is dying in the cluster? Idk.
Any suggestions or input will be appreciated.
Thank you,
~Kyle
The vehicle is a 2004 G35 Sedan with a 6 speed manual. I believe it is a "Sport" as the shocks and struts are red and it has the Factory spoiler on the rear.
Car is 100% stock with no modifications.
Car has 83,000 miles.
My issue is that the Tachometer is slow to respond. It does represent an accurate speed of the engine but when revving "quickly" the guage is slow to catch up.
If I am in neutral and give it a good amount of gas you can hear the engine climb rapidly but the tach will only slowly move up to the correct rpm. Same thing if I hold the engine at say 4,000 rpm and then let off the accelerator you can hear the engine is back down to idle but the tachometer will take a few extra seconds to go back down to 800 rpm to so.
Also during sprite driving it's hard to tell what the actual RPM of the engine is when in low gears such as first and second. Very concerning.
All the other guage inside the cluster work great, even the fuel level which I have read is a common issue. Mine has been accurate the whole time I've owned the vehicle.
My first thought is that a ground for the guage cluster may be corroded because the vehicle sat on a dealer lot for 7 months before I purchased it. I live in WA state so it can be cold during the winter.
I haven't been able to find any information about a gauge cluster ground and with all my research I have not found anyone describing the same issue I am having.
Maybe the needle is dying in the cluster? Idk.
Any suggestions or input will be appreciated.
Thank you,
~Kyle
Bump.
Car now has 150,XXX miles on it now and still has the same slow tachometer described in the original post. I did replace the cluster years ago and it was still slow after replacement.
Currently I am prepping the car for a LS swap (5.3) and I'm wondering where the core issue is and if it will be resolved once the GM ECU is controller the instruments.
Thanks.
Car now has 150,XXX miles on it now and still has the same slow tachometer described in the original post. I did replace the cluster years ago and it was still slow after replacement.
Currently I am prepping the car for a LS swap (5.3) and I'm wondering where the core issue is and if it will be resolved once the GM ECU is controller the instruments.
Thanks.
Urbanengineer
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Which trans are you going to use?
Quote:
Factory G35 manual trans with an adapter plate. Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
Which trans are you going to use?
Urbanengineer
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If you are going stand-alone ECU it should probably work out. The computer that sends that info is the factory ECU. I wonder if your ECU is going bad, or wiring in between, or ground issue.




