Got it, thanks- I didn't realize the side skirt is plastic but it makes sense. Which section of the site do you think would best be able to answer the paint questions?

Metal body components are easier to heat stuff off because the metal transfers the heat over a large area. Composite, fiberglass, polyurethane, and CF is a LOT harder because that heat doesn't travel much so you can make hot spots.

It's a lot easier if you have a commercial oven to put components into so you get even temp, or an IR thermal imager with a screen like a Fluke TIS20 and a handheld heat gun. If you don't have those then a hair dryer is less likely to blister because it runs a lot cooler than a heat gun.

Some heat guns works well for this though like the Wagner Spraytec Furno 500. You can set the heat on it's lowest setting which goes down to 150F but keep the airflow speed up high. Those things are pretty inexpensive too, I've seen a few paint guys using them and we use them at work as well for the stuff I do. It's a really versatile heat gun.

The hard part is getting the leftover adhesive off, it's a long process, 3M adhesive remover won't damage paint, just make sure to check the label on whatever you use to make sure it's auto paint safe.

You will need to polish the surface again with some cutting/polishing compound and an orbital before putting new clear bra on. There's no way around it even with a gentle touch and some nice plastic scrapers you're going to scratch the clear coat when removing the clear bra.

It's a really time consuming process replacing clear bras.