Footwell lighting DIY
#1
10-12-2010, 08:48 PM
Footwell lighting DIY
In my area, I have become the go to guy for car led projects, the most popular has been foot well lighting, so I figure I would give everyone here a detailed DIY. I charge 100 for the install.
Here are some of the installations I have done I have done a whole bunch more but I figured I would just share a few..
My car (2007 Infiniti g35 sedan) (red, switched to white / front and rear)
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2001 BMW 525i (white / front)
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2002 VW Passat (red / front)
2005 Audi A4 (red / front and rear)
2008 Toyota Rav4 (orange / front)
2007 Nissan Murano (blue / front)
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2011 Nissan Maxima (blue / front and rear)
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2002 30th anniversary Camaro (red / front and trunk)
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Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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The list of parts:
Here is a full parts list, a few things can vary based on how you do it.. I will mention that as I go..
1- lights (2 for the front and 2 more for the back if you want)
2- 20 gauge stranded wire (having 2 colors makes it easier)
3- switch(s)
4- add a fuse
5- fuses
6- soldering iron (or crimp connections and crimper)
7- heat shrink (or electrical tape for a more ghetto approach)
8- solder (rosin core lead free is my favorite for small electronics)
9-crimp on U or O connection
in depth description of the parts and where to get them:
1- my favorite lights to use are led strips, this project can also be done with ccfls, but my issue with them is that they use a bulky inverter box, they give off more heat than leds, they are more delicate, and every color but white sucks. the best ones I have found are these. They are very low profile, come in allot of colors and sizes, have deep tones, pre-applied adhesive, and are light enough that only the tape can be used instead of zipties (the first time I did this I used bigger ones and they had to be secured with zipties to stay in place)
2- 20 guage stranded is my favorite to use for this project because its thin enough to hide, is a bit thicker than the wire for the lights so it carries enough current, and the stranded makes it easier to solder with. If you are using crimp connections I recommend you use 22 guage solid core to make better contact. I also highly recommend you get red and black for power and ground to keep things in order.
3- any switch will do that is rated for 12v devices. But, they are a bunch of different types. One is illuminated and one is not. You may think this makes no difference, but when it comes to wiring, one is much more difficult to wire and hide.
non illuminated-
If this is your first electronics project stick with this type for switch! the basic idea behind these is that the power source runs in one side and out the other, turning the switch on or off will connect and disconnect the wire mechanically allowing current to flow when on and not flow when off.
illuminated-
This type of switch usually had an led inside which can be a nice accent. It is also a different wire lay out. It will have 3 pins (sometimes 5 or 6) In this guide I will reference the 3 pin ones because they are the most basic and common.
4- http://store.42draftdesigns.com/asse...-a-circuit.jpg
And add a fuse is what we will use to draw a 12v power source from the car. You can also wire the lights into the back of a cigarette outlet or into the dome lights to have them turn on and off with the doors. I find the best way in any car including ours is through the fuse box with and add a fuse. They can be purchased at any auto parts store. You will need the ATM Add-a-Fuse
5- As far as fuses, our cars use ATM low profile fuses. The add a fuse excepts only full ATM fuses. So, you will need to look in your fuse box (located near the e-brake in 5at (not sure where in 6mt)) figure out how many amps your cigarette lighter fuse is (I think I remember it being 15 or 20 in our cars) and buy an ATM fuse in that amperage and one in 2-5 amps for the lights.
atm fuse-
low profile atm fuse-
http://images.bizrate.com/resize?sq=140&uid=1503202037
6- I much prefer to use a soldering iron over crimp connections because its more reliable, less bulky and cleaner.
9- the crimp on U or O connection is needed weather or not you are soldering instead of crimping, It is used for the ground lead and goes under a bolt for ground. you can use a stripped wire but these make better contact and look nice too.
Installation:
I find that wiring most of the stuff up before installing it is the best way to go.
Step 1: locate a spot
Find a spot for your switch. In our cars the best spots are in the center console on the little tray for newer models, behind the shifter plate, next to the wheel where the vdc button is etc... once you find the location, you will need to do a bit of exploring and messing around to figure out how to get that particular panel out. There are multiple threads here on removing interior pieces. once you have it out, make sure there will be enough room to run your wires without hitting any moving parts or parts that get hot!
Step 2: Drill your hole and install your switch.
once you have found your perfect spot, drill the hole for your switch, I recommend starting with a slightly smaller bit or hole saw than the switch and slowly filing it to the right size. install your switch, most will have plastic clips or a bolt in the back to hold it in.
Step 3: add a fuse
the add a fuse will come with a crimp connection attached, I recommend (if you can) cutting it off, and soldering on to the wire. Measure the length of wire from the fuse box to your switch location taking into account slack for hiding the wires away. solder the red wire from the add a fuse (or crimp it) to that wire and solder the other end to the switch. on a non illuminated switch, it can go to either pin (unless otherwise indicated or there is a specific on and off position) and on an illuminated switch, it will usually go to one of 2 pins (either one is fine) just make sure you don't attach it to the ground pin. At this point you can insert your fuses, the one for the lights goes in the spot where the wire is coming out and the one for the original fuse spot goes in the other spot.
Here are some of the installations I have done I have done a whole bunch more but I figured I would just share a few..
My car (2007 Infiniti g35 sedan) (red, switched to white / front and rear)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
2001 BMW 525i (white / front)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
2002 VW Passat (red / front)
2005 Audi A4 (red / front and rear)
2008 Toyota Rav4 (orange / front)
2007 Nissan Murano (blue / front)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
2011 Nissan Maxima (blue / front and rear)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
2002 30th anniversary Camaro (red / front and trunk)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The list of parts:
Here is a full parts list, a few things can vary based on how you do it.. I will mention that as I go..
1- lights (2 for the front and 2 more for the back if you want)
2- 20 gauge stranded wire (having 2 colors makes it easier)
3- switch(s)
4- add a fuse
5- fuses
6- soldering iron (or crimp connections and crimper)
7- heat shrink (or electrical tape for a more ghetto approach)
8- solder (rosin core lead free is my favorite for small electronics)
9-crimp on U or O connection
in depth description of the parts and where to get them:
1- my favorite lights to use are led strips, this project can also be done with ccfls, but my issue with them is that they use a bulky inverter box, they give off more heat than leds, they are more delicate, and every color but white sucks. the best ones I have found are these. They are very low profile, come in allot of colors and sizes, have deep tones, pre-applied adhesive, and are light enough that only the tape can be used instead of zipties (the first time I did this I used bigger ones and they had to be secured with zipties to stay in place)
2- 20 guage stranded is my favorite to use for this project because its thin enough to hide, is a bit thicker than the wire for the lights so it carries enough current, and the stranded makes it easier to solder with. If you are using crimp connections I recommend you use 22 guage solid core to make better contact. I also highly recommend you get red and black for power and ground to keep things in order.
3- any switch will do that is rated for 12v devices. But, they are a bunch of different types. One is illuminated and one is not. You may think this makes no difference, but when it comes to wiring, one is much more difficult to wire and hide.
non illuminated-
If this is your first electronics project stick with this type for switch! the basic idea behind these is that the power source runs in one side and out the other, turning the switch on or off will connect and disconnect the wire mechanically allowing current to flow when on and not flow when off.
illuminated-
This type of switch usually had an led inside which can be a nice accent. It is also a different wire lay out. It will have 3 pins (sometimes 5 or 6) In this guide I will reference the 3 pin ones because they are the most basic and common.
4- http://store.42draftdesigns.com/asse...-a-circuit.jpg
And add a fuse is what we will use to draw a 12v power source from the car. You can also wire the lights into the back of a cigarette outlet or into the dome lights to have them turn on and off with the doors. I find the best way in any car including ours is through the fuse box with and add a fuse. They can be purchased at any auto parts store. You will need the ATM Add-a-Fuse
5- As far as fuses, our cars use ATM low profile fuses. The add a fuse excepts only full ATM fuses. So, you will need to look in your fuse box (located near the e-brake in 5at (not sure where in 6mt)) figure out how many amps your cigarette lighter fuse is (I think I remember it being 15 or 20 in our cars) and buy an ATM fuse in that amperage and one in 2-5 amps for the lights.
atm fuse-
low profile atm fuse-
http://images.bizrate.com/resize?sq=140&uid=1503202037
6- I much prefer to use a soldering iron over crimp connections because its more reliable, less bulky and cleaner.
9- the crimp on U or O connection is needed weather or not you are soldering instead of crimping, It is used for the ground lead and goes under a bolt for ground. you can use a stripped wire but these make better contact and look nice too.
Installation:
I find that wiring most of the stuff up before installing it is the best way to go.
Step 1: locate a spot
Find a spot for your switch. In our cars the best spots are in the center console on the little tray for newer models, behind the shifter plate, next to the wheel where the vdc button is etc... once you find the location, you will need to do a bit of exploring and messing around to figure out how to get that particular panel out. There are multiple threads here on removing interior pieces. once you have it out, make sure there will be enough room to run your wires without hitting any moving parts or parts that get hot!
Step 2: Drill your hole and install your switch.
once you have found your perfect spot, drill the hole for your switch, I recommend starting with a slightly smaller bit or hole saw than the switch and slowly filing it to the right size. install your switch, most will have plastic clips or a bolt in the back to hold it in.
Step 3: add a fuse
the add a fuse will come with a crimp connection attached, I recommend (if you can) cutting it off, and soldering on to the wire. Measure the length of wire from the fuse box to your switch location taking into account slack for hiding the wires away. solder the red wire from the add a fuse (or crimp it) to that wire and solder the other end to the switch. on a non illuminated switch, it can go to either pin (unless otherwise indicated or there is a specific on and off position) and on an illuminated switch, it will usually go to one of 2 pins (either one is fine) just make sure you don't attach it to the ground pin. At this point you can insert your fuses, the one for the lights goes in the spot where the wire is coming out and the one for the original fuse spot goes in the other spot.
Last edited by zoop425; 10-13-2010 at 07:27 PM.
#2
10-13-2010, 12:05 AM
#5
10-13-2010, 07:27 PM
Step 4: Ground
The main ground wire will be about the same length at the power wire from the last step unless you are using a non illuminated switch (if you are go to part 4a) If not, stay rite here. Cut a wire the same length, strip and crimp on the U or O connection to one end (this will attach to the bolt holding on the hood release lever). don't solder on the other end to the switch yet because more wires will need to be added later.
4a- if you are using a non illuminated switch, the ground wire should run to the most convenient spot in the car where all of the lights can reach easily. So, cut it accordingly.
5: Lights
(If you are using a non illuminated switch go to 5a) otherwise stay here. cut 2 lengths of wire for each light (ground and power) leave a bit of slack!.. the should be long enough to reach the switch location with enough room to tuck in the wires.
5a- if you are using a non illuminated switch, the power wires for each light should reach the switch but the ground for each should be long enough the reach the common ground location you set out earlier.
I WILL CONTINUE THIS LATER... A LOT OF WRITING hahaha
The main ground wire will be about the same length at the power wire from the last step unless you are using a non illuminated switch (if you are go to part 4a) If not, stay rite here. Cut a wire the same length, strip and crimp on the U or O connection to one end (this will attach to the bolt holding on the hood release lever). don't solder on the other end to the switch yet because more wires will need to be added later.
4a- if you are using a non illuminated switch, the ground wire should run to the most convenient spot in the car where all of the lights can reach easily. So, cut it accordingly.
5: Lights
(If you are using a non illuminated switch go to 5a) otherwise stay here. cut 2 lengths of wire for each light (ground and power) leave a bit of slack!.. the should be long enough to reach the switch location with enough room to tuck in the wires.
5a- if you are using a non illuminated switch, the power wires for each light should reach the switch but the ground for each should be long enough the reach the common ground location you set out earlier.
I WILL CONTINUE THIS LATER... A LOT OF WRITING hahaha
#7
10-27-2010, 01:45 AM
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