They're out there, definitely recommend deciding EXACTLY what you're looking for, what package, what options, how many miles, service history, etc. Then you just need some patience and a few test drives.

 

 

 

 

 

My Honda cost me around $5k per year all things included where the G has cost me $4k per year. So YMMV.

 

Good advice! ^ And I recommend finding a G35 with the least amount of mileage you can afford and the latest model year! Test drive shouldn't be once around the block, at least several miles so you can tell how it drives! Hope you find your ride, Good Luck!
Gary

 

As the owner of a daily driven 04 which I bought at 110k and now has 130k, these cars are getting old and will need work regardless of mileage. Rubber decays over time, and all of the suspension bushings, engine mounts, gaskets, seals, etc are made of rubber. My advice: look for a car that has already had someone replace everything rubber with polyurethane, or plan for a suspension rebuild. At 110k mine clunked like crazy, and handled much better after replacing a laundry list of suspension parts.

Take a look at the rear differential bushing (can be seen without lifting car) - if it's not an aftermarket part at this point expect the car will need a lot of suspension work. If you get a car with the suspension redone, the engine is also likely to have been gone through and had expensive sensors replaced and whatnot which is needed on most of these cars now.

And while the 6MT/VQ35DE drivetrains are reliable, they're 15 years old at the maximum now, and most people on here have fixed misfires, bad idles, hard starts, and some have even had to replace water pumps and timing belts (despite these being "known" to last 200k+ miles when these cars were new). My 130k car overheated the other day with no warning or leaking (thermostat? Water pump?) and my cooling system has been well maintained over the car's life judging by new parts and clean fluids. Now the car struggles to start and may need serious engine repairs which would cost thousands if I paid someone to do it.

Just know what you're getting into, because I didn't coming from a family which only owned newer cars. Of course, if you're mechanically inclined and willing to put in the time anything can be fixed relatively inexpensively with the help of the awesome people on this forum! But if you're the person who needs to pay someone to work on your car, my advice is to get a newer vehicle as maintenance will bankrupt you paying for people to fix all the little things which can be inexpensively solved if you DIY.

That said, I'm not selling my G and will continue to restore it. It's a good handling RWD platform that can handle way more power than it comes with stock - a great project car base IMO.

 

OP if I were looking for one right now here's what I would do.
1. Set your budget realistically. Make sure you add into it insurance, present and future maintenance, gas, pre-purchase inspection etc.
2. Decide if you want a coupe or sedan if that even matters.
3. Decide if you want an auto or manual transmission.
4. Decide if color is important to you or not.
5. Decide if you want a modded or completely stock car.

Search, search and search some more. Don't be swayed by features like OEM navigation, it's a joke and waaay outdated. Try to find a car with maintenance records and a clean Autocheck report. I'm not a fan of Carfax, they can be inaccurate at times and not show the true full history of a vehicle. This is critical in making sure you're happy with your eventual purchase. Be patient and attack this task with your head, not your heart. Then when you've picked a car have it checked out by a competent mechanic or a dealership. I would buy the newest/lowest mileage car I could find that meets all my wants. HTH