I didn't cut a hole anywhere in the compartment. I pulled away that harness holder inside that compartment on the fender side so I could access that pre-made hole. Which is what it says to do on kennymo's DIY guide.

As for the pull-back side harnesses, I didn't even do that. I kept everything as is. I didn't remove any tape whatsoever from anything.

So could it be that I didn't bother pulling anything back? (doesn't look like it'd do much) Or because I used that pre-made hole instead of cutting a new one?

 

If you are talking about the PCV valve that is on the front of passenger valve cove. NO, for the PCV valve to work properly it needs to be connected to vacuum.

 

Any tips for cleaning up my FD's engine bay?

 

Yes painting plastic/fiberglass will take some extra work to make it smooth like the body of the car. Extra sanding and primer.

 

Coupe / sedan, year doesn't matter. You will be fine, when using the factory hole the wires to the pin switch and washer fluid tank will be snug. If a new hole is made, then there will be more slack.

 

Sure, you have seen my buddy Ryan's FD. on first page.

 

also I asked marcus to ask u but since I got u on here......would it be possible for u to sell me the braided hoses?? the big one that goes from the radiator to the hard coolant pipe, the small one between the two valve covers, and the hoses for the arc oil catch can

 

So if new holes are made on the passenger and driver side u don't need to extend any wires??

 

^ correct

 

I'm guessing as far forward under the covers as possible??

 

Clarification, we talked via text about me asking Randy for the braided hose sizes since I couldn't remember and you could buy them online from Earl's or Summit.

There are some who think I allow Randy to do business via driver (even after years of telling them I don't...smh). I don't want them to get the wrong idea, thanks!

 

I didn't make any hole on my passenger side for the main loom and all wires reached their connectors. I had to pull the headlight connector from the headlight housing to gain a few inches. and the hood sensor has absolutely no slack.

No wires were extended.

The passenger positive cable looks like it won't need any extension at all. I heard on here that there's supposedly another pre-made hole if you remove the battery, which you run that positive>alternator cable to. But if not, I'm drilling.



As for the driver side, can anyone state what connectors you disconnect on that side? Headlight,clear corner, etc etc.

I can see the hole next to pump assembly box, but i'm not sure if that loom will fit there (might have to enlarge it? Or drill a hole into the shock tower section like kenny did)

I checked Home Depot for step bits, but they were $55 and i was like lol no.

 

seriously though. I just remove that coolant bypass line, then cap the ends. and its all good? No issues? lol.

What do I cap it with? Duct tape?

 

I would not simply remove the hose and use rubber end caps. It would OK for a temporary solution but not long term. Get an extra set of driver and passenger side coolant pipes and have them cut and welded shut. I can send you pics of how mine were modified if you'd like (they are in my progression thread somewhere). Another way to do it is to run the bypass through the radiator, Alf and Lou (lmooth81) both have theirs modified this way.

 

thanks marcus. I might just run it through the radiator.

Can alf or lou post up some pics of their setup or explain what they did?