Then you should've bought them online and asked your mechanic "how much to install these." I've done that several times for items above my skill level to replace.

Mechanics don't usually buy parts online from rockauto, well maybe some do. They usually have a business account with several local auto parts stores (like Advance or Autozone) and purchase from there.

 

A four wheel thrust alone is usually over $100, and a synthetic oil change is around $100 too. They sell parts full retail, and charge $90-120/hr labor. Learn to to get own work; it'll save you a ton.

 

^^^What he said

 

$600 is average for a shop to do control arms.

You have to consider full retail price of parts, then the ridiculous hourly labor rates. Don't even try going to an Infiniti dealer if you can't afford those. I paid more than that...

+10000

 

YouTube is a mechanics best friend

 

Hope this puts things in perspective regarding dealerships. A few weeks ago, I had to replace my AC idler pulley. I needed a idler pulley covers (front and back) and the nut that holds everything together. The idler pulley covers (not the pulley) and the nut cost me $50 bucks. You read this correctly $50 bucks at the Infiniti dealer. I later realized that I also needed the pulley spacers which the dealer wanted another $40 bucks for. I went to a scrap yard found G coupe and got the spacers off a totaled G.

 

^ how much was it online through oem dealers? its usually pretty resonable

 

Same

 

It's a one piece rim which had fake bolts. They were removed by the previous owner before repainting the center.

These aren't the actual wheels I'm talking about but the ones I'm working on have a rim/trim just like these. Three of the rims have the trim removed showing the bare rim and one still has the trim intact. So I'm trying to either source 3 more trims/inserts or remove the 4th trim/insert on the 4th rim so they all look the same.

Below is what a wheel looks like with the trim/insert in place and underneath is what the wheel looks with the trim removed.

 

I don't see a difference other then one looks sanded and one doesn't... What "rim/trim"? Are you talking about the clear coat?

 

If I'm correct, HP Design had some wheels with removable spoke covers that could be painted. I didn't know that the lip was removable as well.. seems like a problem waiting to happen. Good luck

Reminds me of the old skool Momo IDEA wheels. the collars on the spokes were removable too

 

But from the pictures with and without the "rim/trim" the only difference is one rim has obviously been sanded or scuffed most likely from the owner thinking its chrome and tried to clean it with a scotch brite pad. If you wanna make it shiny try sanding it with 1200 just in a test area and spray the area you sanded with a cheap clear coat from Walmart if it's makes it shiny again like chrome then wipe the clear coat off quickly with acetone sand the rest of the rim with 1200 and use a good clear coat. But if that doesn't work then get to polishing ��

 

I had a question about plastic mounting tabs specifically the one on the fan that's mounted to the radiator. If one of those is broken is their an easy fix or replacement is necessary?

 

I have the 19"forge rays on my G. I recently plasti dipped them and decided to add wheel spacers to make the offset better. I searched around and determined that 20mm hubcentric and 25mm hubcentric for the back was the way to go. I did some more searching and found some info posted saying the hub bore size was 60 mm (although now I can't find that and everything I find says 66.1). I purchased some off of ebay with a hub bore size of 60.1 for the front and back. The front fit, but the bore of the back spacers is too small to fit. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it possible it has two different bore sizes for the front and back as another way of idiot proofing the car so you don't put the wider wheels on the front (like the addition of that extra bolt on the front rotors)? I'm guessing I'll just have the back spacers bored out a little more unless anyone has a good reason that I shouldn't or a better solution? I just thought this was odd and maybe worth mentioning/questioning.

 

Just bore it out you probably were looking at the bore size for the g37 (60.whatever mm)