Has anyone of you guys experienced any issues with the weather strip type thing getting caught in the door constantly? I tried searching for anwser but, unfoutunatly for me... I have no idea what it's even called. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Ooops sorry about about that. I mean when I shut the door, the weather strip piece comes undone and rather than forming a tight seal it ends up in the cabin. I included two more pictures, hopefully it's a little easier to see what I'm talking about.
i believe the weather strip tucks under the plastic piece and that plastic piece needs to clip into the hole. is the panel not securing? bc ive take that panel off alot of times and it should be pretty hard to unclip
i believe the weather strip tucks under the plastic piece and that plastic piece needs to clip into the hole. is the panel not securing? bc ive take that panel off alot of times and it should be pretty hard to unclip
You're absolutely correct, it's not securing at all. That plastic piece that it supposed to secure the strip in place has a broken clip keeping it from securing it down. I need to get it replace but I have no clue on what to search exactly... Thanks for the quick response BTW!
Has anyone of you guys experienced any issues with the weather strip type thing getting caught in the door constantly? I tried searching for anwser but, unfoutunatly for me... I have no idea what it's even called. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Anybody ever encountered this? I'm still having trouble locating the part... The diagrams I've looked at were very unclear to me as to what part I was looking for. Again, any info would be greatly appreciated, Thank you!
I just picked up a couple of these tein adjustable spring mounts (top right of pic)
Can someone explain how they're supposed to fit with the supplied springs, like is it lower spring rubber, spring then they fit on top the spring - between spring and body - and the cone shaped top rubber is discarded? I looked around at some pictures and most have it on top of the spring but I can't tell if the cone shaped rubber is still in place.
I want to know as I'm going to see if I can use them with my tein stechs to level the rear out.
That's a coilover set and the "adjustable spring perch" you are referring to is the rear spring seat/ height adjuster. The spring you have is probably too large. You may be able to shim under your spring with some rubber if you are trying to level the rear.
That's a coilover set and the "adjustable spring perch" you are referring to is the rear spring seat/ height adjuster. The spring you have is probably too large. You may be able to shim under your spring with some rubber if you are trying to level the rear.
Thanks, I was thinking that those springs in the kit looked a fair bit shorter
Friend of mine recently bought a G with some running problems.
It idles fine but is low on power (could be so many things I know) and when he gives it gas it sounds like this in the video. Maybe someone who is familiar with the sound could give us an idea of where to look.
Besides being low on power and making this noise it is also giving a P0500 - Speed sensor code.
Any ideas?
Edit: Just to add, he is holding the revs up in the videos there but it's revving lazy and won't go much higher. The weird noise is not present at idle.
Sounds like what I'd imagine dodgy valves to make but I'm not sure. He intends to get an oem air filter to rule that out too.
Hey so I am new to this forum as of today (woohoo!) I think this would be the appropriate place to begin my discussion seeing as this should be a pretty simple little question, but I apologize if I am writing this up in the incorrect place.
I just purchased an 04 G35 Coupe that apparently was wired for aftermarket subwoofers in the trunk (because apparently the Bose weren't good enough for him!?). It also has an aftermarket radio. When I purchased the vehicle, he took the subs but assured me that it was already wired and ready to go with new subs. My deal is I don't want aftermarket subs. I just want to use the Bose subs that came in the car. I have never wired subs before, so I am a little confused on how to get back to having the Bose subs thumpin'. I am, however, very comfortable with saudering/crimping and splicing electronics, so that part doesn't scare me at all. I am wondering if, based on a couple of pictures I took of the wiring, someone could point me in the right direction.
I believe I have attached some photos. The first two show the aftermarket wiring he had in place. The second photo (trunk space) shows the red wire that came from the positive battery post, the two gray wires which appear to have plugged into the aftermarket subs, and the blue wire which I am not sure from where it came. The 3rd and 4th pics show the wiring to the Bose subs (the left sub is still in tact, but the right sub's plug has been removed). And finally, the last picture shows that there are a lot of other wires under the steering wheel column. I found that the gray wire from the trunk must connect to the radio. Here's my thinking - the red wire from the battery is what gave the aftermarket subs power, and the gray wire is what actually connected those subs to the radio. I could be wrong, but I think that makes sense.
Any advice on how to get the OEM Bose subs back into business?
Thanks!
Hey so I am new to this forum as of today (woohoo!) I think this would be the appropriate place to begin my discussion seeing as this should be a pretty simple little question, but I apologize if I am writing this up in the incorrect place.
I just purchased an 04 G35 Coupe that apparently was wired for aftermarket subwoofers in the trunk (because apparently the Bose weren't good enough for him!?). It also has an aftermarket radio. When I purchased the vehicle, he took the subs but assured me that it was already wired and ready to go with new subs. My deal is I don't want aftermarket subs. I just want to use the Bose subs that came in the car. I have never wired subs before, so I am a little confused on how to get back to having the Bose subs thumpin'. I am, however, very comfortable with saudering/crimping and splicing electronics, so that part doesn't scare me at all. I am wondering if, based on a couple of pictures I took of the wiring, someone could point me in the right direction.
I believe I have attached some photos. The first two show the aftermarket wiring he had in place. The second photo (trunk space) shows the red wire that came from the positive battery post, the two gray wires which appear to have plugged into the aftermarket subs, and the blue wire which I am not sure from where it came. The 3rd and 4th pics show the wiring to the Bose subs (the left sub is still in tact, but the right sub's plug has been removed). And finally, the last picture shows that there are a lot of other wires under the steering wheel column. I found that the gray wire from the trunk must connect to the radio. Here's my thinking - the red wire from the battery is what gave the aftermarket subs power, and the gray wire is what actually connected those subs to the radio. I could be wrong, but I think that makes sense.
Any advice on how to get the OEM Bose subs back into business?
Thanks!
The OEM subs don't really thump, but they're okay. I'm sure some audiofreaks will chime in with the Bose hate soon enough, so I'll just try to answer your actual questions.
In the trunk, red wire is power. The grey is RCA cable that connects from the aftermarket head unit to an amp, the little blue wire attached to the RCA cable is the remote signal that tells the amp to turn on. The thick blue wire looks like a ground wire for the amp. It's probably bolted to bare metal somewhere.
Now in order for the OEM subs to work, you need to find out how that radio was installed. The OEM speakers & subs work off a Bose amp. If you remove your spare tire, there's a large plastic cover on the left, the amp is under there. Sometimes, the Bose amp is removed when an aftermarket head unit is installed.
You might get lucky and only have to plug the Bose subs/amp back in. But if the amp is removed, you're going to have a fun time tracing out a hacked up harness.
I think this would be the appropriate place to begin my discussion seeing as this should be a pretty simple little question, but I apologize if I am writing this up in the incorrect place.
