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I have the 19"forge rays on my G. I recently plasti dipped them and decided to add wheel spacers to make the offset better. I searched around and determined that 20mm hubcentric and 25mm hubcentric for the back was the way to go. I did some more searching and found some info posted saying the hub bore size was 60 mm (although now I can't find that and everything I find says 66.1). I purchased some off of ebay with a hub bore size of 60.1 for the front and back. The front fit, but the bore of the back spacers is too small to fit. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it possible it has two different bore sizes for the front and back as another way of idiot proofing the car so you don't put the wider wheels on the front (like the addition of that extra bolt on the front rotors)? I'm guessing I'll just have the back spacers bored out a little more unless anyone has a good reason that I shouldn't or a better solution? I just thought this was odd and maybe worth mentioning/questioning.
Which side isn't fitting, spacer to hub or spacer to wheel?
Measure them back, quite possible you were sent the wrong parts...
Edit: Working on the car again tomorrow so really hope to figure out what's the problem tonight!
Okay need some help......
I bought an 04 engine from a 350z Manual to replace mine (04 G35 Auto).
The engines are pretty much identical - only thing I noticed were different 02 sensor plugs.
I removed the "Auto pilot bushing" - I think that's what it's called - and tapped that into the end of my crankshaft so the torque converter can be aligned.
Inside the 350z engine crankshaft end I did see a smaller bushing (manual pilot bushing???) but it was well below the seating surface for the auto pilot bush so I left it in place. I'm still pretty sure it wouldn't cause a problem.
Anyway, torque converter bolted on just fine. Then when mating the transmission, they come together, locating lugs align and it's all about 7-8mm gap around from the bell housing to engine. They just won't go together as easily as the I expected, anyhow I catch a few bolts and they draw up fine and the gap closes but when the gap is closed I can no longer rotate the crankshaft!
I loosened back the bolts and the transmission came away, small 7-8mm gap I think ish the crankshaft is 'freed' again and can rotate...... What am I missing here, does that manual bushing need to come out? But it's behind the torque converter and it bolted up fine. Really confused here.
Last edited by BradMD_96; Apr 23, 2016 at 09:06 PM.
I'm not an expert mechanic here but if that bushing your looking at is seated in the block that's probably the rear main and if the auto transmission was removed in park the crank won't turn because well it's in park and maybe there needs to be fluid in the transmission to shift. What does the fsm say?
Read the fsm and see if you did anything wrong the engines are identical
I believe the trans input shafts weren't slipping into the torque converter properly. I put the TC on the trans first instead and then mated the trans and engine with a flywheel bolt hole directly at the bottom and the TC bolt hole matched. That did the trick. I guess I just got lucky last time with the TC still on the engine and aligning with the trans so easy.
Regarding pilot bushes. You need the Auto (bigger diameter) pilot bushing to center the torque converter on the flywheel, sort of like the center bore of a wheel hub. I left the manual pilot bushing in the crank as it was well beyond the seating surface for the auto one.
Also, taking out this auto pilot from the 'old' engine was done with a wrench to break it free by spinning it and then a hammer and chisel. This left the outside a bit bruised up but it doesn't matter because the torque converter aligns on the inner diameter. I did, however, read up that many fill the hole with grease and hammer a socket/extension/round something in the center and allow the hydraulic pressure to force the bushing out.
I went on a road trip this weekend to Rhode Island with my G, about a 6 hour drive on highway, and about halfway through the drive my tire pressure light came on. Strange thing was that when I stopped to check the tires and turned the car back on the light went off. But then when I was driving home the light came back on the entire drive. Now that I'm home the light has stayed off. My tire pressure all matches what it says on the door panel so I'm not sure if I should just ignore it and move on or get it checked out.
I went on a road trip this weekend to Rhode Island with my G, about a 6 hour drive on highway, and about halfway through the drive my tire pressure light came on. Strange thing was that when I stopped to check the tires and turned the car back on the light went off. But then when I was driving home the light came back on the entire drive. Now that I'm home the light has stayed off. My tire pressure all matches what it says on the door panel so I'm not sure if I should just ignore it and move on or get it checked out.
Did you notice the light blinking for about a minute before staying on? If so, then you probably have a battery dying in one of the sensors. Plan on replacing all the sensors the next time you need tires.
How crucial is it to upgrade the pivot ball when upgrading the clutch to JW5. CZP seems to recommend it. I order the JWT modular flywheel and clutch kit.
How crucial is it to upgrade the pivot ball when upgrading the clutch to JW5. CZP seems to recommend it. I order the JWT modular flywheel and clutch kit.
It's one of those "you probably should" parts. Will you're old one suddenly break? Probably not right away, but the added stress "could" cause your 10 year old part to wear out. It can be an exercise in frustration to have to drop your trans a second time for a cheap $35 part that you probably should have replaced when the trans was out of the car anyway.
When in the water tub I can see air bubbles coming from around the valve stem as it passes through the face of the rim.
Basically, it's not leaking by any other bolt, it's not leaking by the valve stem opening and it's not leaking by the valve stem seal to the rim barrel. The valve stem is the angled type which bolt onto the rim barrel and come out at 90 degrees pointing out of the rim face. These were replaced when the tires were fitted so they were bent slightly to fit them through the hole in the face.
So it's either leaking by the rim barrel seal area or through some cracks created by bending the valve stem - only a slight bend.
If you see the photo below (not my wheel but very similar) the air bubbles are coming from the space around the valve stem.
why did they have to bend it? those stems are sold in different sizes you can find them on ebay for like $15 or so a set.
The valve stem is shaped in a way that it should be bolted to the barrel and then the face slips in place on the barrel with the valve stem fitting through it's cut out.
Anyway I had a standard rubber valve stem fitted to check and it's definitely the seal. Removed all the silicone already and will reseal tomorrow. Recommendations on the sealant anyone?
