It is an amazing car but just a stage 2. It's a 2018 with the adjustable coil overs, all the Roush aero, 20" wheels w/UHP Continental sports, Roush quad tip axle back setup for active exhaust, upgraded stripe package, Roush tool kit, and all the standard Roush goodies. It is a premium 400a so pretty well equipped with the comforts and has the Ford PP1 package with the Brembro 6 piston 16" setup, and Ford performance 2 piston rear, 3.73 Torsen diff, subframe braces. No supercharger though... I haven't put a wrench on it yet with just 1600 miles...

 

It's freaking gorgeous. My brother had a lightly modded 03 Sonic Blue Cobra he bought new in late 02. He was planning to pass it down to his oldest son who's 12 now but they lost it in the Louisiana floods a couple of years ago. Loved that car, like my GTO it was a beast back in the day and still today is impressive. Ford has and has always had some of my favorite automotive blue paint schemes.

Enjoy the Roush!

 

Thanks Blue, have a good one

 

Well finally got around to doing my alternator. For anyone curious a g35 coupe alternator job has to have the upper radiator tube removed and fan shroud. Also, the grommet bolt was a PITA. Got it done though finally.

So I took the car to Nissan because I was still having spongy brakes.

I go to pick it up and the invoice says "test drove brakes not spongy, bled front two calipers and fixed caliper". I was a bit concerned by the fixed caliper term and no one could really give me a straight answer on that one.

I go to leave and the pedal still feels the exact same. I would have gone crazy if I just left and didn't get to the bottom of this. I had the service manager come out and watch me press the brake pedal. He said he test drove it and they didn't see or feel anything wrong with the brakes. He actually said had I never said anything about the brakes they never would have even brought them up, because they felt that normal to him.

After discussing some more, He says there is no air in the system and this is not sponginess. He says its simply increased pedal travel (I upgraded from the single piston g35 calipers to these 4 piston brembos). And he reassured me there is no issue other than increased travel. I understand increased travel as the pedal moving more i.e. the piston moving more. This kind of makes sense because the cotter pins that hold the pins in the Brembo kind of pushes out the pads more, leaving a bigger gap in between the piston and brake pad.

Its very possible I misunderstood this increased travel space as air AND it's possible I did something wrong with the cotter pins and pads but that seems really straight forward and I'm not sure how I could screw that up. The service manager said there is nothing to worry about safety wise and felt fine letting me drive off. So I'm still kind of in limbo with this but it doesn't seem to be as big of an issue.

The plus side is, is that they diagnosed a lower control arm and a outer tire rod. Some good youtube videos of that. Looks like my next job

 

Have someone else hit the brakes while you stand at the engine bay with the hood open and watch for excessive flex on the firewall, you might have a LOT of flex and that's where the long pedal is coming from. There are master cylinder braces available to correct that kind of problem (they're great on any G btw, really firms up pedal travel).

I call BS on it being related to the brembo's though... how long has it been since you COMPLETELY flushed the brake fluid? You should be doing this every time you replace brake pads. It's also possible you have worn brake lines (the flexible part that goes to the caliper) they can become weak and slightly swell when you hit the brakes. If you have 100k on them they're probably due to be replaced.

 

Never heard of firewall flex. I'll try that this weekend. Will it flex right at the master cylinder? Brake fluid is 100% new. And before that, it was maybe not even 1 year old. Brake lines are still original and have 155k miles on them.

 

Seems the right thread; anybody got the measurements for the two adjustment nuts/bolts for the coupe window regulators? Specifically the slotted bolts and nuts, more-specifically the thread measurements for the bolts. One of my driver ones was stripped by Dave Smith Nissan of Spokane(never go there! It's a sordid story), and Infiniti/Nissan won't sell just the bolt, but only the entire regulator assembly. If anyone knows the measurements/has their door panels off currently, would be super nice if they could whip the bolt out and find the measurements. I plan to buy one with the same measurements, cut it down to length, and make my own damn slot on the top.

 

Bummer I wish you posted this a few weeks ago I could've given you every damn bolt size. Just had to do mine.

I might be pulling my mirrors off here shortly so ill check back if anyone has responded. If not I can give you the sizes since I think I've got to take the door off

 

That that would be such a godsend, even my non stripped ones are loctited in so well that I'm not sure I could get them out without damaging them somehow.

 

 

Ouch... Did they fit on the car before painting? I thought those bumpers from concept weren't straight bolt on.

 

Most poly bumpers aren't direct bolt on because of they way they're manufactured. I'm sure you can get the fitment right, but you might have to repaint it

 

I mean even OEM body components usually require a little bit of work for proper fitment, aftermarket parts DEFINITELY require work to some degree. Nothing a body shop can't get ironed out for you.