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Only replying to avoid someone getting confused a year from now... Coupe tires are staggered. Yes, this includes the diameter.
Here's a comparison of the 19" sizes, you'll notice there's a similar percent difference in the 17" and 18" factory sizes.
The sedans have "square" tire sizes.
There are several aftermarket tire size combos that will yield different widths but matching overall diameter, but that doesn't change the fact that in stock form, the car was designed for staggered tires.
Only replying to avoid someone getting confused a year from now... Coupe tires are staggered. Yes, this includes the diameter.
Here's a comparison of the 19" sizes, you'll notice there's a similar percent difference in the 17" and 18" factory sizes.
The sedans have "square" tire sizes.
There are several aftermarket tire size combos that will yield different widths but matching overall diameter, but that doesn't change the fact that in stock form, the car was designed for staggered tires.
My bad I was just going off of what I have on mine. Thanks for the research...
I know this has Been heard around or discussed for a long time i just cant find the right Discussion lol , I have a 2003 G35 coupe and i recently started to hear my rear axle click when i go in reverse. It recently started to sound a little louder. I know from what I've read that I need to re-grease the axle i just don't have tools to do anything right now (working on it to get tools to get more hands on lol) but does anyone know a shop that can do that for me because knowing that if i go to the dealership my wallet will get murdered lol I live in Long Beach CA and would really appreciate the help Thanks.
Any shop should be able to do this. All you do is take off the wheel, take off axle bolt then push it inwards and grease from behind. So shop around for a price.
I do know the tsb said to use a specific Japanese made grease. That when I looked it up was very expensive. I don't know if this grease is critical in solving the rear axle click or if it simply what Nissan recommends someone with more knowledge here can comment on that. But as far as labor goes this is very easy and should not cost much. Personally, If I were you I would wait and buy the tools myself when possible. You would need a breaker bar and a torque wrench and thats really it. For the cost of the labor is probably cheaper to buy the tools yourself.
Upgraded front calipers to brembo. I wish I knew there was an issue with bleeding our systems because I've found similar 350z threads with my identical issue.
so as recommended I purchased a motive power bleeder. I would avoid the other type of pumps that connects to the caliper because they never seen to seal right. This product fits onto the master cylinder. Also I noticed the fsm says to start from passenger right -> left front -> driver right -> and passenger front. Not exactly a bleeding order I've seen before so that could be my issue. The pedal feels good and firm then I start the car to drive and it just sinks. When the power bleeder gets here I'll follow this. Any other suggestions?
Yes it's a nonstandard bleed order, yes it feels like crap if you do the traditional (farthest tire first, closest tire last) method. I think it has to do with how everything is routed through the ABS valves. If the pedal steel feels spongy though I'm pretty sure you didn't bleed it enough. Did you go until you had completely fresh fluid in the lines and all bubbles were gone on the far tire? I only had an erratic lockup when I accidentally bled in the wrong order.
Would installing test pipes make a noticeable difference in power or gas mileage? My engine and exhaust is all OEM at the moment, so I'm not sure if my cats are actually restricting any airflow really.
Would installing test pipes make a noticeable difference in power or gas mileage? My engine and exhaust is all OEM at the moment, so I'm not sure if my cats are actually restricting any airflow really.
Not really. You would need to un-restrict the intake side before noticing decent benefits from a more freely flowing exhaust, and than a tune to correct the AFR. OEM cats are restrictive.
Yeah I thought so. A lot of the folks that just add test pipes have no idea what they're in for, they just "heard" that they would open up the exhaust flow and add power. FPFQ ftl.
yea I bled the hell out of it. Talking each side like 3 times. Still spongy and no difference in feel. Someone with this identical issue said the vacuum thing he bought made it simple. The order must be critical here since I didn't realize it until afterward. I remember when I painted my single piston calipers and put them back on I followed the correct order and haven't had an issue. Oh well, gives me an excuse to buy something else.
Anyone have some OEM cam or crankshaft sensor they can inspect? I bought new cam sensors for my car and theyre supposed to be OEM but the actual part doesnt have any numbers/writing on it. Aren't OEM parts supposed to have the part # on em? Or does Nissan just leave em blank??
Blue Dream you're making me sad, I'm a new owner and I know what test pipes do!!
My response was not to you but yeah, I'm pretty straightforward and I thinks it comes across as blunt at times in our digital communication world. Remember though what I post is only my opinion based on experience and if you like what you have done to your car enjoy it, don't let my shizz bring you down. ;D
Axle Click.
Thanks.
