I purchased a 2005 G35X from a dealer cash. They were clearing out some older inventory and they give me an heck of a deal,but the car needs some work.
Car is clean inside n out. Engine, interior were all almost flawless.
I took it to Infiniti yesterday for a recall issue with the air bags.
They also told me the front lower ball joints are worn,
shock absorbers in the rear are leaking, tires are 6 years old and rear rotors/brake pads
need to be resurfaced and replaced.
The price they charged me was pretty much what I paid for the vehicle.

I've read the "before you start a thread section" before posting this so I couldn't find any info about ball joints and shock absorbers.

I found ball joints at Z1 Performance for 71 are those any good and close to OEM quality as possible?

I also found KYB Shock absorbers for 29 a piece at Rock auto can anyone shed some light on how good they are as well?

Is there a write up or video on how to install these things to my vehicle? I had a 300zx twin turbo before and is300, was able to do my own work with those,but I heard these g35 are very sensitive. ive heard horror stories people having trouble with their intake as simple as cleaning their TB butterfly valves.

 

I would take what the dealer says with an enormous grain of salt. Mine had the open airbag recall when I bought it too and when they did their inspection I was told my brakes pads were completely gone. I laughed at them because they were brand new. Unfortunately, I think a lot of the dealers are pretty crooked when it comes to this stuff. If you are familiar with working on a car at then jump right in and take a look for yourself and a lot of what they listed should be easy to verify.

Z1 is pretty reputable company and that price seems to be in line with most replacement parts.

KYB is a good brand to use, just double check and make sure you are getting the correct ones for your car.

If you do need new rotors I have some fronts for an X that I can make you a deal on. I didn't follow my own advice above and bought the wrong ones since mine is RWD and a larger rotor.

There are quite a few DIYs posted in this forum and would be willing to bet you could find plenty on youtube as well. For the most part this car is pretty easy to work on if you have prior experience. I wouldn't say the whole car is sensitive but you do have to be careful when cleaning the throttle body.

 

If your are just using it for a beater, by all means get the KYB shocks from Rock Auto. If you are half way mechanically inclined, do them and the brakes yourself and save a bundle. The ball joints are a little more involved and will require some special tools. (that can be loaned from AutoZone) I also bet that if the ball joints are bad, the bushing are also. Not an easy job for the shade tree mechanic, but the front can be done without a hydraulic press, but it's a bitch. Best leave that to a mechanic. I got all my front end bushings replaced with Poly ones for a little less than $800. I would NOT suggest you use the dealer for ANY of it. Dealers are for warranty work only.

 

I knew my ball joints were bad when I was doing an oil change on the vehicle before I took it in the dealer for the recall issue. I'm just going to get them resurface at Oreily. I also knew my tires are bad before going to the dealer, I've only had the car for 2 days before taking it in to the dealer and so they are telling the truth about all the ball joints, brakes, tires,but they are crooks for charging me 4,125 dollars to do that kind of job.

However, I can buy my own under cover shield since the one on my car is falling apart and they will only charge me 20 bucks to install it.

 

What would you consider other than KYB's thats reasonably priced? It will not be a beater, its my daily, from point a to point b, family grocery getter. I have no plans on modding the car.
I want it 100% stock even though the car came with a 2nd gen Stillen exhaust lol. But heres some pics of my ball joints when I was doing my oil change left wheel and right wheel.

 

Just recommend me some parts fellaz so i can buy them and have a mechanic install them for me.

Lower ball joints, bushings (possibly Polys} and shock absorbers

 

Contact Kyle at Importpartspro.com

 

Your tie rod end boots are shot too. You might as well plan on replacing the tie rods at the same time as the ball joints.

 

Yeah looks like you need outer tie rods too. If your doing the outer, you might as well do the inner. I did mine using the Moog inner and outer tie rods. I think for both sides I paid like $70 at Rockauto. This also means you will need an alignment afterwards since these are used to adjust alignment. As a matter of fact, anytimr you do any major suspension and steering work, it's always a good rule to perform a 4 wheel alignment.

The suspension on these cars are just crap. The best way to remedy it all at once is jhst to replace all the rubber bushings with poly.


Also KYB makes good shocks and struts. The problem though is that they make the car have a stiffer ride and not in a nice sportier way. For comfort when dealing with shocks I would stick with OEM

 

Unless you are lowered. OEM won't last 6 months to a year. You will need something like Tokiko "blues" or D-spec adjustables. Life time warranty and the are rebuildable.

 

I called Infiniti yesterday and they told me my outter and innner tie rods are fine. They said I Just need to replace the shock absorbers in the rear and front lower ball joints. So what should I do ignore them or what?

 

My car is not lowered, its completely stock suspension.

 

Ok can anyone shop around for me websites for good affordable prices that are near OEM quality or better.. Inner tie rods, outer tie rods, front lower ball joints. I'm getting frustrated on which ones to look for since I'm no mechanic and not knowing what to look for. Don't forget to include poly's as well.

1. LIST OF GOOD PRICED REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS

2. LIST OF GOOD PRICED FRONT LOWER BALL JOINTS

3. POLY URETHANE BUSHINGS

4. INNER AND OUTER TIE RODS

 

Just did

 

Those tie rod boots are ripped. Only a matter of time before the grease inside begins to dry out and water gets in and corrosion sets in. I'd add them to the list of eventual things to fix.

Those balljoints are toast.

I'd snap a picture of the inner bushings where the lower control arms bolt to the chassis. These are a common failure as well.