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It's that time again. The transmission has been really notchy lately. Time to install the clutch master I bought last year when I swapped the trans to a cd009, installed the shorty headers and broke my hand in the process.
Finally gotta break in the rain for a few hrs so here I go.
Nahh..only took an hour. I got lucky and the flare nut on the hard line actually broke loose cleanly. It feels better, but not fixed. The trans is very notchy in shifting. I need to bleed it again when someone else is with me. I used the power seat and a level that belonged to my Granddad to hold the clutch to the floor when bleeding it..lol
I'm not getting any slippage, but I'm thinking the clutch isn't going to last much longer. It may be time to finish the lightweight goal and get a clutch and LWFW to match the aluminum engine pulleys, and 1 pc aluminum ds.
Oh and the car just turned over 135k.
The work went well though, so then it was bath time.
my rear defroster light is not coming on, and the rear window is not clearing. the fuse is apparently not under the driver kick panel, unless it is lumped in with something else. I'll have to pull out the FSM and the Owners manual and figure it out I guess... *sighhhh*...
Seems like I'm here every week lately, with another issue.
The rear defroster still not working. Got a CEL the other day (P0455) Large Evap leak. I looked under the rear at the fumes/evap pump and don't see any issues there, looked at the lines running under the car to the engine and don't see anything there. Carrying my ancient OBD2 scanner in the car with me, I just keep clearing it.
Then last night on the way home from some errands, in the rain, sitting in traffic. The car dies.
I was able to get it off road and call a friend that lived right down the block for some help. Pretty sure it is just the battery, an Optima yellow that was in the car when I got it and is dated 4/11. That may explain the other issues I've been having too. Swapping it out here in a few minutes then I'll take the car by a shop and have the alternator tested on the car. Too damn hot to pull it just to test, 108* heat out there today.
I did check and clean every single fuse under the hood while I was in there and found not a single one bad. Hopefully the new battery will kill all these issues that have been popping up.
I popped a new battery in and she fired right up. Turned on all accessories and put it under load.. held strong. I'll still have to drop by and get the alternator tested this weekend, but I'm pretty confident the battery was the culprit. The negative terminal on the Optima battery was actually pulling out.
after warming it up for a minute, I cracked off a few revs to see how it settled out..perfect. Noticed that my exhaust has a real interesting bark to it when I rack the pedal and let off. I LIKE IT! exactly what I was going for when I built it.
Very exotic snarl.
Seems like I'm here every week lately, with another issue.
Well of course the answer is in your thread title, right? It is after all the $4,800 G35. But you knew that and it's what it's all about: all of us watching your existential battle with entropy, holding back the forces of the universe. And mighty forces they be...you have the hand to prove it!
LOL at some point soon the car will be all new. Then when you go to sell and someone wants to preach "book" value..grr.. going thru that on that BMW right now. Everything new except the engine itself, and new paint and they want to talk book. Book Shmook.. I take care of my cars and upgrade everytime something is replaced. Better than new... stick that in your book buddy. :/
Yeah when people start to talk book values and haggling the price I usually just tell them this is probably not the vehicle they were looking for and to have a nice day. Book values are nothing but a reflection of the AVERAGE of current market sales, it combines ALL the data, the high sales and the low sales, sorted based on location/milage/options/condition. What it doesn't show you (and it should because those sites are disingenuous by not doing so) is the RANGE for high and low values inside each given condition, for example.
Four vehicles, excellent condition, exact same package options, prices at sale were 20k, 15k, 10k, 5k. KBB will report the "value" of this vehicle as being 12.5k (added values / 4)... but it will NEVER tell you that one of them sold for 20k and one for 5k even though they were literally the EXACT SAME except for VIN number.
Last edited by cleric670; Aug 19, 2017 at 01:37 PM.
Reason: typo
I finally decided to part with one of my other engines, a 2jzgte/Single turbo from my last drift car. The Lexus GS300 will be going with it soon.. the BMW 318ti was sold a few weeks ago. All this is freeing up my time to finally get to the long term Porsche 944 Outlaw build.
In other news.. I picked up a Grip Stage 3 dual friction clutch and chromoly 17# flywheel. The kit came with a throwout bearing , but on inspection I see it is Chinese made. I'm a little wiser than that, and I don't feel like doing it more than once, so I'm ordering an OEM one, along with a new rear main crank seal. I hope I have the time and or strength to install it all soon...work has been rough lately and I don't get enough sleep.
The GT35RS project is coming together. Next step will be to further lighten the car by pulling the stock seats and replacing them with something that has better grip. I'm tired of sliding out or bracing my leg on the door or trans tunnel.
Got the Stage 3 clutch, and chromoly flywheel installed. The stock clutch was SMOKED although it never really slipped under power it was nearly into the rivets, and there was clutch dust everywhere. The stock dual mass flywheel was worn out too, and caused a lot of slop when going on and off the throttle like when cruising thru my neighborhood.
I replaced the rear main seal, which was not leaking, but it's a "while you are there" kinda thing. It was a real PITA to install though, so I was a little worried.
I also bought another front crank seal to replace the one I thought was leaking ever since the aluminum pulley install when I replaced the old stock crank seal. Turns out it was not the crank seal at all.. it was the seal on the underside of the front timing cover that was not seated right. I had this off when I had to replace the chain guide and the water pump last year. I cleaned it up really well, and filled the gaps with Gray RTV and let it cure for a while. Worked like a charm, not a drop since. I did an oil and filter change while I was under the car too and drained way to little oil to be comfortable with. The leak was pretty major so I'm looking forward to tracking the oil consumption of the engine for real now that it's been stopped.
Impressions:
The 17# flywheel revs and drops so quick. Heel toe downshifting is a blip and that's it. Keep in mind I now have:
1. Aluminum crank and accessory pulleys
2. St3 dual friction clutch and Lightweight 17# flywheel
3. Aluminum 1 pc driveshaft.
The car just wants to go, but I'm still babying the throttle for the clutch break in of 500 miles. 170 miles in so far and haven't been over 1/2 throttle. Cant wait to apply full power.
The aluminum driveshaft, copper/ceramic dual friction clutch disk and chromoly flywheel cause some interesting harmonics below 2k rpm at low speed. I've been in touch with the seller and they say it sounds normal, and the sound will lessen as the clutch wears in and gets seated to the flywheel. I don't care about the noise, so long as it works. I will say that it is probably not for everybody. It would probably also not be an issue if I didn't have a flagpole for a driveshaft. On the better side, the notchiness of the transmission is gone, and the plate on the top of the shifter was actually the problem with the car popping out of 5th gear. I installed the plate too far to the left last year when I put in the CD009 and it was making contact with the shifter in 5th. Works perfectly now.
I really want to get thru these break in miles and find a good twisty set of roads to go play on.
on the search for a 4.08 gear set and the drivetrain will be done.
the squeaking of my stock drivers seat is driving me nuts too. looking at replacements. considering Braum seats, but I don't know how low they will mount. I'm only 5'10" 165# so luckily headroom isn't really a problem on pretty much any seat, but I want a lower CG.
opinions?
Dual Friction copper impregnated flywheel side.
Dual Friction ceramic pressure plate side.
Of course I broke the stud off the starter and had to buy a new one also..
Last edited by EPiK; Oct 4, 2017 at 11:53 AM.
Reason: pix
On the better side, the notchiness of the transmission is gone, and the plate on the top of the shifter was actually the problem with the car popping out of 5th gear. I installed the plate too far to the left last year when I put in the CD009 and it was making contact with the shifter in 5th. Works perfectly now.
