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Might be up for sale somewhat cheap actually... or go up on the wall with all my other high dollar misfortunes.
Here is the story if interested:
Years ago, a guy here had it up for sale for a while. I didn't see the FS thread, but I did come across his eBay listing for it.
In the item details, he listed he had sent the driveshaft shop his steel 2-piece to have this custom shaft made, spending a little over a grand on it.
He received and installed it. It had a vibration @ 120+. So, he sent it back the DSS where he said they re-balanced it and sent it back.
Well, according to his listing, he received it, but never installed it again and ended up selling the car.
I won the auction obviously and received the DS.
Someone messaged me with a link to one of his threads stating he in fact DID re-install it and still had the issue.
It was a lost cause, so under the bed it remained until yesterday.
I contacted a driveline shop here in the city and they informed me "you can't spin a one piece aluminum as fast as you can a 2-piece or one piece steel, that's why you have a high speed vibration."
I then called the DSS and spoke to Tad and he told me that was not true at all, and I told him what you just read.
He wanted me to send pics of the shaft to make sure it was in fact theirs and not someone else's with a DSS sticker slapped on.
Well, it is their shaft, just an older one.
Now, do I spend the $ to ship this giant thing back to them to have them take a look? Pay for any balancing or repairs, then return shipping back?
Tad mention it might be cheaper than a new shaft to re-tube it, if that's what it needs, but how much cheaper?..
Or drop $450 - 500 on a new shaft with a warranty...
Ship to me and you buy yourself a new o e with warranty. I'll risk the vibrations. Lol
Recently replaced the rear brake pads with some semi metallic ones. They are very very small. Afterwards I found out the rear right was seized up after hearing some noise and noticing the difference in wheel temperatures. Turned out to be just one of the slider pins had rusted tight, managed to loosen it up, re-grease and fit back all together. The effect of the seized caliper wasn't that noticeable with the worn out pads.
Also fitted a set of new NGK Iridium plugs, sorted out the sagging undertray and added some toe in to the front wheels because of some dartyness and inner edge wear.
I did notice my fuel mileage dropping over the last few weeks so it'll be good to see it go back up after sorting out the sticky caliper as well as fresh plugs.
It's also been a bit over a month ago since I did the front main seal and underneath the engine is still completely dry, good to know that was the source of the oil leak. Now I can really monitor the oil level to see if anything actually gets burnt. Then make some time to finally cut and buff the clear......
Last edited by BradMD_96; Sep 14, 2017 at 11:58 PM.
^^^I like the seats, but can you take a pic from a non-inverted position!?
Were you able to take care of the airbag light and which rails did you go with for installation? Need more details pls.
New seats are a must for me. My G handles really well, but, the side bolsters are so worn that I have to brace my left leg against the door when taking higher speed turns to keep from sliding out of the seat.
You can replace the individual spark plug tube seals in the valve cover, it just requires the use of the 1_7/8" hole saw and a drill press to drill out the 3/16" of plastic holding them in place inside the valve cover. You can google search how to do it if there's any questions and it's only about $20 for the grommets instead of a couple hundred for new valve covers. Just swapping valve cover gaskets won't fix the issue of oil in the spark plug wells.
So I've watched the videos, and seen the articles, but I can't find the Fel-Pro part number anywhere. Google searches all say 72481, but I found a thread that said they don't fit. Any ideas on what the correct part number is?
^^^I like the seats, but can you take a pic from a non-inverted position!?
Were you able to take care of the airbag light and which rails did you go with for installation? Need more details pls.
New seats are a must for me. My G handles really well, but, the side bolsters are so worn that I have to brace my left leg against the door when taking higher speed turns to keep from sliding out of the seat.
I don't know why the pictures loaded sideways like that. I'll try and fix it.
Airbag light/weight switch will be addressed tomorrow.
The slider rails came with the seats, but the brackets are vehicle specific Sparco's.
Awesome. Please keep us updated with the progress and results. There are old threads on this, but they have broken links in them, especially for the airbag switch--a new DIY here would be much appreciated. It would be great to see some pics with now the fit,net looks (i.e. the gaps between the seat and console, etc).
I recall reading that people were using the Buddy Club brackets for their low height.
My Motodyne manifold spacer and z-tube showed up last night so this morning I started getting ready to pull the valve covers to do the plug seals. I get the intake tubing and airbox out and notice that my cam advance actuator is unplugged. I'm thinking I didn't hit it or anything when pulling the airbox so I must have left it unplugged from when I did the plugs last weekend. I vaguely remember unplugging it to get a little more wiggle room on the harness. So I plugged it back in, put the z-tube and the K&N in, and reset the misfire code which I thought was from the oil soaked plug. Lo and behold, holy ****, it's like a different car.
From now on I'm telling people that the z-tube gained me 20 horse, without a doubt.
I will say, the z-tube with the cold air intake is a mild increase in sound, but it's just right. Not too loud, not obnoxious at all, and no stupid wheezing when you turn the car off. I like it since I'm really trying to temper myself with this car and keep the mods sane without turning it into a tuner-car. I spent my teen's and twenty's doing that so I'm trying to be more mature now-a-days. That being said, the flange between the resonator pipe and the muffler is toast so I will be eventually putting a Motodyne on it.
Plugging the VCT solenoid back in would certainly add 20hp OR MORE lol.
Yeah, that's the joke.
Yesterday afternoon I changed the oil in the G and my wife's Pathfinder, which has the stupidest oil filter location ever. Than today, the wife and I took a trip up to Asheville, enjoyed some gorgeous late summer weather and some wonderful curvy roads.
