So I've hit 120K mile on my 05' Coupe AT and it really just doesn't drive like it used to. Aside from squeaks and clunks it just isn't nimble and feels kind of loose in the steering. I love the car so I've decided to just pony up and get it back to newish condition.

I have some other tune up related things to do as well, but for the suspension I'm planning to get Tanabe Comfort-R coil overs at around a .5" drop (TSR063) and the Energy Suspension Master bushing kit (7.18108R). Here is a link to the kit contents - http://imagesrv.catalograck.com/imgVD/ENE/17564.pdf

My question is while I have this all torn apart, are there any wear items or inexpensive upgrades that would be good to get done at the same time? I don't do any racing and rarely do much "spirited" driving so I'm not trying to get crazy here.

Thanks in advance for any advise!

 

Id suggest getting new mevotech upper and compression arms for the front, and the whiteline essentials kit. Along with the Rear energy suspension bushing kit. Lastly, new front ball joints. That should get you a near new experience. Sway bars if your budget permits.

 

Sorry to jump on the thread, but better than making a new one. What lower ball joints do you suggest? I've heard people complain about the Mevotech about the boot slipping off.

 

Not really much else. I had worn end links that made the car understeer. After bushing replacement and the new sway bars I have a properly handling car.

OP I didn’t look into it, but the Diff bushing was HUGE for my 125k mi car.

Diff bushing pic (worn out) attached.

 

Thanks a bunch jgonz!

 

Your welcome....

 

Good decision. You're in for it though. Just finished redoing the suspension on my Z @240,000miles. Feels brand new again. Did master bushing kit, coils, steering u joint, tie rods, subframe bushings, diff bushings, engine mounts, and much more.

I'd recommend inner and outer tie rods also, the inners can develop quite a bit of slop.

Also for removing those stock bushings... I take a torch to them, hammer out the metal collar, then sawzawl in 3 different places. Once you make that third cut the outer race falls right out then you're ready for the new bushing.

Good luck! It sucks until you're behind the wheel again.

 

Which engine/transmission mounts did you go with

 

Sorry urban, we posted at the same time then I was off looking for parts and reading/watching diy’s. Thanks for the info!
You too Yosip, I appreciate it.

Looks like I’m signing up for a couple brutal days of work, fortunately I’ve got a well stocked machine shop at my disposal. Just wish they’d invest in a lift lol

 

Rshields; use the diablo carbide tipped sawzawl blades from home depot with a squirt of whatever you have in that shop for cutting fluid. You'll use one blade for the whole car instead of one blade per bushing. aaaand I hope it's days, not week(s). Took me a weekend straight to do the rear suspension + subframe bushings. Needed to take a few day break after that, it was physically exhausting & I'm 22.

Urban,

My goals are a bit more extreme than most, and my tolerance for NVH is high.

I went with Z1 6 shooter aluminum engine mounts

Machined this bad boy a few years ago:

 

Nice work! I especially like you took the time to get the brush finish on the outer profile, I’m always picky about stuff like that lol.

Thanks for the tips, sounds like it’s gonna take longer than I initially thought. I guess I’ll plan on doing the front and rear on separate weekends. I need to follow this all up with tires and alignment, I’m guessing it would be better to do the rear first and drive on that for a week or two before the alignment?

 

Thank you! My ocd used to be pretty real... Lately I've grown out of it to focus on the bigger picture and get more done instead of spending time cleaning polishing etc.


Anyway,
Imo you should start with the front. The front is easier to remove suspension arms from, which will warm you up for the rear ones.

It also has way less adjustability so your alignment would suffer less if you started here.

If you count threads to match the tie rod lengths (if you change them) you'll be looking good to drive for a few days or so. More if you don't care about your tires which you don't.


To be honest, you're going to see less improvement from the rear so if you skimp anywhere do it there. I had a sedan with twin turbos and did minimal work to the rear. I did camber arms, sway bar bushings + adjustable links, diff bushings, toe bolts, adjustable toe arm, coilovers (oem style), but did the whole front up. The car handled well (155k miles).

Does my z feel better with front and rear done? Yes, much. Did I know any better back when I had the g with minimal rear work done? Nope! Still thought it was great back then and I drove it hard.

 

Yosip, next time you're cutting like that with a sawzall check out a tube of cutting wax, you just use the blade to cut a wedge into the wax then lay the blade in after every cut until it's cool (few seconds) the wax sticks inside the teeth of the blade and doesn't just run away like liquid thread cutters. I do a LOT of metal cutting at work and everyone is amazed at how much longer blades, holesaw's, even standard drill bits last after I show them the wax. Rapidtap makes a paste that's pretty badass as well.

 

Was looking for a poly engine/trans kit, butnice to see someone offers aluminum. Not my idea of luxury performance lol. Too loud.

 

Yeah we used to use that in both of the machine shops I worked in! Mainly for band saws.

That and oil misting on the manual mills... The oil misting makes endmills last months. Obviously flood coolant for the real cnc machines

Urban, Z1 has both https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...ts-p-5586.html

Not a kit... But they both look like quality investments

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...nt-p-6527.html