ok here is an update, I looked at the boost sensor, I was able to disconnect one end of the plug from the option wire.

I see three wires, red white and black. I am thinking of just splicing into the white wire from the zeitronix, and I should be good to go.

I didnt even know I could just disconnect the boost sensor from the wire it looked it was one big piece, haha!

 

I don't think he is using the blue box.

 

^^ yup your right... NOT using emanage blue, but USING E-manage Ultimate, the nice shiny one! haha

 

WHAT EVER YOU DO, DO NOT CUT THE RED WIRE!!!


or you get





haha jk, sounds like its going well. Although I havnt read the entire thread...

 

^^hahahahh!! well got sick this week, so finally im getting together with my installer and we are gonna finish hooking the zeitronix up to the greddy ultimate, will let everyone know what is going on, and will try to post pics too!!

and for sure I WILL NOT cut the red wire! haah

 

Here is an update, spent about 4 hours today messing around with the greddy emanage ultimate. Came across couple of problems fixed some and some are still there also have some questions too.

We hooked up the PURPLE wire from the Zeitronix, made sure to set "Linear WideBand Output 0-5 volts" in the Zeitronix software. Then in the Greddy Software we set the Option Port #1, to A/F Meter and put the brand to OTHER, we left the ranges alone. We were getting wrong readings and it wasnt matching the Zeitronix Meter. We then found on the Zeitronix manual that the range is from 9.5 - 21.0 , we then set those parameters in the Greddy software, BUT it was off by 1.0 AFR, so I modified the settings again and made the range 8.5 - 20.0, and it matched perfectly to what the Zeitronix meter was reading, so at idle it was around 14.7 - 14.9 *** Keep in mind we hooked up the PURPLE wire to the WHITE wire on the Greddy Option Port, the Black and Red was not touched ***

Next, we had strange readings when at the data logging window we selected the ignition timing to be shown, it was bouncing from negatives numbers all the way to like 300?? it was crazy, and we are very sure we connected the wires correctly, not sure why the readings are jumping all over the place?!?!

The next problem is the Water Temp, it is stuck at 130C or at 266F (this is what the Greddy is showing), it will not move, the intake temp is working fine and its at 154*F. We are also sure we hooked up the wires correctly. Then when the car is idle and A/C is off, the car started to over heat, and boil the coolant out. We then shut the car off to cool. Strange thing is that the temp gauge in the dashboard was still reading in the middle it never went high. The fans only turn on when the A/C is on, so we had to test when the A/C is on. We are thinking the Greddy is overwriting the Temp signal. Also there is a relay setting we are not sure off both is at 32*C off and 32*F on for the relays? The temp is set at the standard NS_ something.

Third is the throttle positioning sensor, it only was reading 50 - 100%, we then saw the min voltage was .78 volts and max was like .79 volts?? We did manually input the min to be like .78 volts, and the max to like 4.85 volts, so the throttle positing censor would be a bit accurate. What values did you put sliderg35???

We then tried to tune, we looked at the sample data logger and then couple of short runs to observe, left side Y axis was HotWire, X right side was RPM. The lowest I hit was around 9.0 -10.0 AFR. We did try to copy the sample graph you had sliderg35 and made our own Injector Map #1, then we exported it to the Greddy. We are not sure if it took effect? We didnt really notice any gains, but then again we are not on a dyno. I do have a Gtech meter, and at the 1/4 mile on a deserted road my time went down from 14.9 to a 14.4 but we didnt believe that what the Gtech was telling us. That seemed to unrealistic. We will wait to test it out at the Drag Strip.

So did we really update the Greddy emanage with the injector map #1? All the dip switches are at the ON postion. All 4 of them are.

Also should we just disconnect the TEMP Water Signal wire? and what setting do we use for the Ignition timing??

Remember I am only N/A not F/I just want to get some extra horses on what I have installed so far. Please Advise.

 

It sounds like you are getting close...

Disconnect the water temp. wire. There is an issue (that Greddy is aware of) that causes the factory ECU to think the water temp is not getting high enough when the sensor is connected to the E-Ultimate. Is doesn't happen on all cars, but it did happen on mine. The ECU kept giving me a code (don't remember which now) that said the engine should be warm by now but it isn't.

Throttle position sensor. There is a learning procedure for the E-Ultimate. It never worked for me. I set the throttle voltage manually. You will want to fine-tune this, but mine is set to 0.55 v MIN and 4.3 v MAX (normal).

Timing signal - I don't remember having to do anything special. I would think you should check your Crank Angle Signal input wire (#33 connector C on E-Ultimate). Also check that your ignition signal wires are in the correct positions for each cylinder (not mixed up). Ignition timing does move around a lot, but should not be in the ranges you observed.

When you make changes to the settings, you do have to "Export" the settings for them to be used by the E-Ultimate.

I hope this helps...

 

Yes this does help alot, I read somewhere else on a skyline forum that, you should turn the car to ACC then press the medal down all the way to find the max voltage for the throttle position. I just found that site last night.

I am showing this thread to my Infiniti Master Tech and he will check the wires, but YES we are getting close!! thanks!!

 

Just found this, had asked about EMU on the G35 before but couldn't get any answers,

Anyway what i am interested in is how are you guys getting around the mostly closed loop areas of the std ECU maps? as the std ECU will try and re adjust whatever fuelling or timing adjustments you make back to the inbuilt maps via the std lambda feedback and the knock control maps.

Whether you use the AFM map its still going to fight it, plus it will have the undesirable effect of changing the ignition timing, or are you only adjusting out of closed loop?

 

What you are saying is the reason most people don't like the EMU. You can't control the closed loop so this is where people that are FI have had problems.

 

Don't get me wrong, i like the EMU, i have used one on a single turbo Supra to make 500+ BHP, but with an already turbocharged car the closed loop feedback control buts out at much lower RPM/load so its easy to change the mapping,
But with N/A or FI N/A especially more modern ECU designs its very hard to fool the ECU, and on wideband equipped ECUs its impossible.

Which is why i am particularly interested in how anyone with a G35/350Z N/A or FI has got around the problem.

 

Thats just it...there isn't really a way to bypass the ECU and have full control when its in closed loop. This is the main problem and reason why you don't have a lot of people running the Greddy