or it means more/less resonators or a different muffler design...last time i checked resonators and muffler designs do not mean more power.

 

Read my post again...I never said 500whp...I said 500hp...which is about right.

That's off topic though.

As for 10's...if Z's can do 9's...G's can do 10's.

 

So you have all this experience building high HP cars and I am assuming reading dyno graphs and A/F readings and you question why your vehicle is making the power it is? What did your dyno graph look like? What were your A/F ratio's? Did you consider the drivetrain loss through the Trans? I wish you luck in building this 10 second G35. Do you have plans for the transmission to handle the power? Are you going to boost the car? Do you plan on running the stock rear end? What are your plans for the engine? Just a few question that I had. I don't even know why I am bothering with this post since you obviously have so much experience building vehicles.

 

What is your problem? I just got the G35 so I still have a lot of learing to do when it comes to this car...why the hate? Why do some of you people get you panties up in a bunch for stupid isht?

Have I considered the drivetrain loss? DUH! I originally posted because my car has run some pretty lame times stock and to demostrate what I put to the wheels. I'm not so curious about the dyno as I am about my car's track performance.

What did the graph look like? It looked great actually...better powerband than I actually even expected from this engine.

A/F Ratio? Don't know...wideband was unavailable.

Transmission? I have built auto trannies before but don't know what the weak links on these trannies are. From what I can tell they are very stout as it is...maybe a change in clutch packs, torque converter and modified valve body? I don't know yet, but all of this I can do myself so I save a lot of money in labor at least.

Boost the car? Of course...good luck getting into the 10's N/A...lol. Probably single turbo. Hopefully a PT6776RS will help me get there...or maybe even an HTA GT3582R.

The list can go on and on... what was your point again? Maybe some of you people can stop trying to attack me with stupid isht and either post useful information or not post at all. Heck, this isn't even something I'm gonna do from one day to the next...I'm not exactly rich. It's just a goal...leave it at that.

It kinda makes me wonder if THIS is the reason why there are no 10 second G's...too much drama...lol.

 

It is going to take a serious amount of cash to get your G into the 10s. You're also going to loose out on it's daily driveability factor because of what you'll need to do, you'll be adding a crazy amount of noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH). Yes, there are a COUPLE Zs in the 9 and low 10 second range, but these cars are heavily modified for the task. I believe a couple actually have TH400 (GM tranny) swaps and standalone ECUs. That's great for a drag race car, but on the street, you loose ABS/traction control/stability control. The G is also at a 250lbs weight disadvantage. The G is also on a 8" longer wheelbase which doesn't help it's ability to plant the rear tires. If you REALLY have aspirations to go 10s in this car, this is what it's going to take and I'm not certain it will get you there:

1) Built motor. Rods, low compression pistons, head bolts, head gasket, high capacity radiator. ~$3K if you do it yourself.

2) Single turbo setup with fuel management equipment. $8K+. The fuel management equipment, ECU, tuning will probably set you back $3K. The turbo gear is at least $5K for the right equipment.

3) Built tranny. I'd probably just source the service parts from the JATCO 5AT used in the Titan. It has heavier duty clutches, etc. It should be able to hold the power. Beef up the valve body to speed up shifts. Tranny cooler. Line lock. $3K+

4) Light weight drag racing rims. Skinny in the front, wide out back. 26" slicks. $2K.

5) Chassis cage. Required for cars under 12-seconds at the strip. $3K+.

Overall, you're probably looking at around $20K. IMO, the money would be far better spend buying a Fox Body Stang or LS1 F-Body and grab 10s for less than $20K for everything.

 

THANK YOU! Somebody who actually stays on topic...lol.


I do expect to dump $20K into it...that's actually about what I had in mind. It'll just take some time...though some things I probably won't buy new so I'll save some money in some places.

The reason why I chose this car is precisely because of how odd it is. Fox body stangs and F-bodies are a dime a dozen in the 10's.//but G's are non existent.

While everything you said is right on what I was thinking...I actually plan on keeping it as a daily driver ( of course having a back up car though ). I would lighten the car as much as can be done confortably and put good suspension compenents to handle straight as possible launches but keep it as "complete" as I can do be able to drive it around.

I'm already starting to make a list of what I can remove to lighten it up..

 

For reference:
I dynoed my 03 G35c auto on a dynojet bone stock and came up with 218whp 207lbft. I also ran it the same day and posted a 14.3. It was about 50 degrees near sea level. 2.2 60fts-aftermarket heavy 19in. wheels.

I have since Vortech S/C. @8psi I dynoed 311whp 274lbft on the same dynojet, ran a 13.1 at the same track.
I'm now at 10psi, HFCs and tranny shift kit. No new numbers yet.

~Dv8

 

Hmmmmm...This gives me new found hope to hit my mark of 230 on the dyno.

 

Have you done an ECU reset yet? Check the "easy ecu reset" thread. There is the possibility that it has become "accustomed" to the previous driver and the previous driver drove like a beeatch.

 

Yeah, I've done it with no luck. I think my track just may be slow.

Either way, time to mod. I just got my spacer.