so recently i went ahead and got the APS tuner kit deal that Z1 was doing, which included the APS tuner TT kit, 660cc DW injectors, a UTEC, MAF, and APS exhaust. i also got a Z1 6-puck clutch and lightened flywheel combo and HKS EVC6 and Autometer Nexus guages. its taken about a week and a couple days so far, but this is where my tuning guys are.

they have everything installed and they were supposed to get a base tune on the dyno so i could pick it up and drive it till the shop owner (who is also the main tuner) gets back from vacation next monday and can give me a really good tune. unfortunately things werent going too well when i went to pick the car up yesterday after work.

i went in and they had it looked like they were trying to get the car to idle properly without dying. they said they had to diagnose a misfire earlier, which happened to be a bad plug. so for now they put the stock plugs in till the new ones could get in. they were sitting in it messing with the UTEC and accessport-looking diagnosing computer. im not familiar with the exact one they were using. but the idle was AWFUL. i could smell how rich the car was running. the main installer was revving the car from like 100-600ish rpms to get it to stay idling. if he didnt constantly keep revving it it would die. finally it was idling and the AFR was like 14-14.5. i asked why the hell it was doing that and they said it was because the UTEC doesnt have an easy way to go in and change injector size from the stock 380cc to 660cc and the stock ECU was tripping all over itself trying to figure it out. he said it wasnt that big a deal though they would just have to go in and pull fuel throughout the rev range. they said cause the UTEC is done through hyperterminal it would just be a pain and tedious.

the only thing that worries me is in my thread about my build in the FI forum a member said that the car should idle perfectly with very slight tweaking of the UTEC and i shouldnt be running into this issue at all and i definutely shouldnt have to pull fuel. anyone have any advice?

oh yeah, and this is on an 04 6mt G coupe.

 

you need to put 0 on the lower columns so the stock ecu takes over the starting and idling .

Thats what i have heard and seen.
I got some UTEC maps for mine but they for 440cc injectors
If you want to give it a try

 

Who are you having tune your car?

 

which lower columns?

and yeah if you could email them to lope483@gmail.com thatd be great. thanks man.

 

a local ohio shop named precision autosports that specializes in twin turbo 03-04 mustang cobras. i know they know their **** when it comes to TT applications, they just arent too familiar with the G. all the shops out here are like that unfortunately.

 

ok so i just got back from the shop. MAJOR idling issues. it ran flawlessly on the dyno however. made 389hp 369tq @ 6.5psi. cant ****ing WAIT to get this car on the road.

but anyway, yeah so its got a MAJOR idling problem. like, it wont even turn over unless you give it a little gas, then itll just die if you dont feather the gas like right away. it dies when you come to a stop. the AFR was hard to tell cause you have to keep feathering the throttle, but when it finally would settle down and idle, it was at like 400rpm and the AFR was like 14.7. my tech thinks it has to do with the drive-by-wire throttle. he thinks the car is getting enough fuel but not nearly enough air at idle because for some reason the throttle isnt opening up all the way. we tried setting the 0% load column to -10, all the way to -30 and it just got worse. any ideas?

 

would raising your idle to 800-1000 rpm help out?

 

u know, we thought about this too, but he really thinks its a throttle body issue. which is weird cause the car NEVER did anything like this before we strapped the TT kit and accessories on. and they didnt mess with the throttle body AT ALL. it is running like absolute **** at idle but is totally fine at anything above that or WOT. its all kind of weird.

i really hope i dont turn my completely reliable, awesome daily driver into a piece of crap finicky bitchmobile

 

hmm. if he has the software to do it, perhaps he should try it out - couldn't hurt. i've heard that some FI setups run like crap at idle so raising the idle has helped make startup/idle easier.

 

ive heard that too. but ive also heard that its freaking impossible to raise the idle without bringing it to a dealership.

 

UTEC should allow you to do that. normally you can raise the idle up to 850 or so.

 

basically just an update....i talked to them this afternoon and they are recommending a fuel return setup. i talked to Ryan at Forged and he said you shouldnt need one unless youre making serious power, like 500+. thats generally when ive read all over these forums too. regardless what i do i have to wait till the tuner/owner comes back on monday cause he doesnt want them ****ing with it anymore. hes going to tune it fully when he gets back.

i was thinking about going with UpRev and Osiris and selling the UTEC but Ryan told me they do like 80% of their installs with UTEC and have like zero problems with it. either way this is a freaking headache.

 

we did the walbro fuel pump mod, and it helped a little but the lumpy idle was still there. i ended up saying eff the UTEC and going with Osiris. the stalling issue went completely away but now theres a somewhat lumpy idle. its not nearly as bad as with the UTEC though. it jusr cycles from 800-1000rpm. MUCH better though. its getting better with every mile i put on the car as well so i think we just have to let the ECU relearn and itll be fine.

thanks for all the feedback though. this was a real headache and now i can just enjoy the car.

 

I don't understand why you changed the MAF and went with a UTEC which is MAP based? The stock ECU probably wasn't getting the right voltage from the MAF and therefore couldn't hold idle.

Setting trims on a UTEC is basic 101....If your tuner thought it was 'hard' to do perhaps he didn't know heads from tails about the UTEC. I suggest this is another likely issue with being unable to make it work properly. If you can't set trims properly you shouldn't be going anywhere near an FI tuning session.

Hopefully your cylinder walls weren't washed in the process!!!

Either way good luck with your build!

 

Have they performed an Idle Air temp re-learn? or TPS re-learn