I am soo disappointed in the power that I made tonite on the dynojet. I believe it was somewhere around 232hp with alphawerks headers, kinetix plenium, kinetix cat, and y pipe installed right before the runs. I really expected more hp assuming I was only suppose to lose 20% of the 280hp due to the AT. Hopefully, I'll get the dyno sheet up but I can't figure out why my numbers are so low.

The only reason I can think of why the numbers are so low is due to the fact it might be because of the ecu (needs resetting), no fans were used (weather outside 40F), and I only have 900 miles on the car (not broken-in). I don't know if this could be the cause so I'm asking you guys if these numbers are correct for the amount of mods I have invested. Any info would be helpful, thanks.

***UPDate: scrow down for the dyno sheet***

 

Believe it or not, the losses from a rear-drive AT are actually closer to 25%. So at 232 RWHP, you are around 309 at the crank. I have an 03.5 5AT sedan and put down 230 with the following:

Stillen dual catback
Motordyne 1/2" spacer
Z-Tube/KN
UR pulley set
10 wireGrounding Kit

So, you are probably just a bit low for an 05. But 900 miles is really new and tight. I would change the oil now to Mobil 1 5W/30 since it is broken in now after the WOT dyno runs. Dyno it again after 5000 miles and it will be higher. Probably by 10 HP or so. Also, curious what you A/F ratios were?

 

05 AT and 03 AT.. have the same engine.

 

you should not be surprised... several of the guys i know from my area have had similar results.

i dyno'd in April with TopSpeed headers, Crawford Cats, Fujitsubo Y-pipe (plus Ztube and Popcharger) and i only hit a max of 230 on the Dynojet. HOWEVER, my air fuel ratio was very high on the lean side. all the airflow mods that let the engine breathe better also have the side effect of leaning out the AFR significantly.

as a solution i will be adding a UTEC computer to adjust the fuel and timing curves to bring out the power that i know i should be making.

 

Don't be so concerned with the numbers. Taking peak dyno numbers, as an absolute, is completely misleading. You might dyno with a peak of 250 and go across town, dyno on another dynojet, and get 230. Did you lose 20hp by driving across town? No.

The only use for a dyno is as a tool for tuning. Choose a place to dyno, get a baseline, and use that same dyno from that point forward to help gauge the effectiveness of mods.

The only way I would have been concerned about your numbers if they were like 175. 230 is certainly within varainces amongst dynos.

As an example, my first dyno(05 6MT Sedan, ztube) yielded a peak of 241.9hp. A friend in his 04 6MT Coupe, on the same dyno saw a peak of high 220's. But less than 20 miles away on another dynojet, with basically the same mods, he saw something in the 240's.

 

Oh, did you happen to have a baseline done before installing the mods?

And what gear were you in when you dyno'd? Typically the gear closest to 1:1 ratio is ideal, but that may not be the case for the automatics in our cars. And before anybody blasts me asking me for proof, I'm just relating what I have been told. It was explained to me that 3rd gear, although technically a higher ratio, yielded better results because of the torque converter locking up early in fourth gear. This was in relation to my wife's 04.5 5AT(sedan), so may not still apply to the 05 5AT's.

Another thing to remember is that the dynojet supposedly automatically calibrates itself regardless of which gear is used. Apparently by measuring engine rpm's and drum rpms, the "to the drum" gear ratio can be derived. So any numbers measured by dynojets are automatically adjusted based on this pseudo gear ratio. Having said that, it obviously cannot take into account a locking torque converter, and I myself have seen not-insignificant variations when dyno'ing in 3rd, 4th, and 5th on my own car.

 

Thanks for the reply guys. I didn't do a baseline dyno bc I was cheap, lol. I was thinking I would get somewhere near 220hp but I guess I was wrong. I was actually expecting at least 240hp with these mods (headers 10hp + plenum/cat 10hp + y pipe 2hp) but it never turns out the way it is suppose to.
I totally forgot to ask for the a/f ratio but I'm sure its lean up top than usual. Here is the dyno runs done in 3rd gear. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Trey (love the "location") is pretty much right on the money. The dyno is a tuning tool, that's all. Comparing your numbers to some other car done on a different dyno is invalid. Look at the numbers generated at the famous "Church's" dyno shop in So Cal. These G/Zs are putting out unreal numbers (260whp+ stock in many cases), but when these guys go to the track, they're not pulling amazing times. Their ET/MPHs are inline with the average numbers on this site. This only proves my point that comparing numbers between shops is completely pointless.

A Dynojet doesn't really care about which gear you use. Shops won't use 1st or 2nd because the engine will spin the rollers so fast that the data read can be inconsistent. Most shops will use 3rd or 4th depending on tranny. Whatever gear you dyno in, stick to it on all your other runs. Consistency is key.

Like Trey said, a where's the baseline? Without the baseline (importantly on the same dyno), you have absolutely no way of gauging gains/losses.

Lots of people calulate flywheel hp by multiplying whp times the drivetrain loss +1. (is 20% loss equals 1.20). That's incorrect. To calculate flywheel HP, you need to take WHP divided by about .80 (20% drivetrain/accessory loss for the 5AT). The 6MT tends to see about a 15-16% loss. So for you 05 5AT, you're probably pushing closer to 290hp.

I'm also sticking to my guns that the 03/04 sedan motors were making closer to 270-275hp and not 260hp. Most stock 5AT sedans see 215whp. That's about 270hp at the fly and the 6MT see 230whp which is about 275hp at the fly.

 

Can you contact the shop and see if they saved your dyno runs to disk? If so, ask them to email them to you. Just from the screencap there, it looks like they're using an old version of winpep, which may mean an older version of the physical dyno. I'm not a dynojet expert, but I've read bits on other sites that explain the earlier versions of the dynojets were less accurate. For example, the auto-calcing of the gear ratio is a fairly recent addition to the dynojet(early 2000's I think; don't quote me).

 

+1 on Trey's novel J/K, it's all subjective. Don't let it get ya down. There are Soooo may variables and Sooooo few people who actually know what they are doing who run them (in our area anyway). I do think with the BO's you mentioned that the U-Tech might help. I plan on getting one after there are a few other folks that try them first. Good luck.

 

I did my dyno last nite will upload when I get a scanner hooked up. Got 226 hp / 206 ft-lbs. Did you use manumatic? My curves look pretty rough on my 5AT (used 3rd gear). I have 1/2" MD spacer, Ztube, K&N so thats about what I expected. This was on a dynojet also.

 

The closest 1/4 mile track to "the guys that go to Churches" is 2700 feet above sea level - riddled with dust and during much of the year has consistently high temps!

I'm one of them of course and for the record have dyno's Stillen in Costa Mesa 241, Dyno Shop in San Diego 243 - and of course Churches 271.

Flame on brother.

BTW - don’t get too perplexed with the numbers... first of all, Stillen was prior to several additional mods – secondly, I agree every dyno is going to be different and obviously conditions will be different... I go by how my car compares with others that day on same dyno - I always fair pretty well.

 

Yeah, LACR tends to suck life out of cars in the summer heat. In the winter things aren't so bad. However, I'm talking about Gs run at Infinion, Sacramento, and Irwindale.

 

In the winter LACR sucks too... still high altitude, uphill slope and tons of dust.

Irwindale is 1/8 mile... I don't know anything about the No Cal tracks but those guys don't dyno at Churches either so it's a mute point.