Brake Pads
#1
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Glendale,CA
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#2
how in the world did you wear through rear pads in 22k miles?
usually the stock fronts go bad with regular driving at 60k miles-and they wear out quicker than rears. if they really are worn, you might need to seek the dealers advice on what the underlying problem is thats wearing the rears out.
but to answer the question-
if you are satisfied with your cars braking-get OEMs
if you want more bite/grab- get metal pads(make more noise such as squeeking tho)
if you want better pedal feel- get stainless steel lines with higher boiling point fluid
if you want better higher speed higher force performance-get slotted or drilled rotors+fluid
if you want all of the above, get that which will run about $800. and also invest in some high performance tires and you are looking at the price of the akebono stock setup. its all in what you want/need.
i personally want the akebonos with slotted rotors, stainless lines, metal pads, and high boiling point fluid. my cars braking is good for a panic/emergency stop once, after that braking deminishes greatly thanks to 20'' rims.
usually the stock fronts go bad with regular driving at 60k miles-and they wear out quicker than rears. if they really are worn, you might need to seek the dealers advice on what the underlying problem is thats wearing the rears out.
but to answer the question-
if you are satisfied with your cars braking-get OEMs
if you want more bite/grab- get metal pads(make more noise such as squeeking tho)
if you want better pedal feel- get stainless steel lines with higher boiling point fluid
if you want better higher speed higher force performance-get slotted or drilled rotors+fluid
if you want all of the above, get that which will run about $800. and also invest in some high performance tires and you are looking at the price of the akebono stock setup. its all in what you want/need.
i personally want the akebonos with slotted rotors, stainless lines, metal pads, and high boiling point fluid. my cars braking is good for a panic/emergency stop once, after that braking deminishes greatly thanks to 20'' rims.
#3
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Glendale,CA
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I spoke to the dealer service rep last friday and mentioned to him that my slip, vdc off light and brake light were coming on. He checked my brake fluid resoirvoir and said your low on fluid therefore the light comes on. He poured in fluid to the max level and now the light does'nt come on anymore. He said check your rear pads because the rear caliper piston has extended out to compensate for brake pad wear hence more fluid leaving your resoirvoir. I mentioned how is that the rear brake pads wear sooner than the front? He said, sports sedans when braking dont lean forward when you punch on the brakes which is really true and i love that. He said as a result the car "squats" because the rear brakes are working hard to prevent from that "leaning forward which you experience in trucks and suv's". Hence my rear pads are worn down pretty good and will require replacement in the next 1-2 months.
#4
ok, well i tried to break it down as to what to get to satisfy what your looking for.
your answer really comes from the type of driving you do.
im at 39k miles, drive normally 65% of the time, use the engine to slow down 15%, and brake heavily the other 20%.
front pads are at 60-70% life, rears are 75-80% life. but as i stated they are done after a few good stops thanks to the rims. so i need the whole upgrade to get a caliper that gets more pad on the surface, get a pad that grabs better, get a rotor lets gasses escape, get higher DOT fluid to prevent fluid boil, and get lines to prevent brake line expansion. this is because i am working up to shifting this car to a nice handling, braking, accelerating car that i can track if i want to.
i quickly found this car is FAR from that when i hit a HWY that is known for its turns. 313 turns in 11 miles, elevational change of 1000feet up and a few hundred down. the G is not ready lol.
your answer really comes from the type of driving you do.
im at 39k miles, drive normally 65% of the time, use the engine to slow down 15%, and brake heavily the other 20%.
front pads are at 60-70% life, rears are 75-80% life. but as i stated they are done after a few good stops thanks to the rims. so i need the whole upgrade to get a caliper that gets more pad on the surface, get a pad that grabs better, get a rotor lets gasses escape, get higher DOT fluid to prevent fluid boil, and get lines to prevent brake line expansion. this is because i am working up to shifting this car to a nice handling, braking, accelerating car that i can track if i want to.
i quickly found this car is FAR from that when i hit a HWY that is known for its turns. 313 turns in 11 miles, elevational change of 1000feet up and a few hundred down. the G is not ready lol.
#6
Join Date: Mar 2008
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#7
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#8
how in the world did you wear through rear pads in 22k miles?
usually the stock fronts go bad with regular driving at 60k miles-and they wear out quicker than rears. if they really are worn, you might need to seek the dealers advice on what the underlying problem is thats wearing the rears out.
usually the stock fronts go bad with regular driving at 60k miles-and they wear out quicker than rears. if they really are worn, you might need to seek the dealers advice on what the underlying problem is thats wearing the rears out.
Wait wait wait, are you saying the front brake pads need replacing roughly every 60,000 miles??????
#9
I can't see getting 60K out of these pads without a stick shift... it's just never gonna happen. Not with any sort of city/town driving anyway. All highway, maybe.
The rears in the G wear faster than the fronts, due to the amount of rear brake being applied by the VDC.
I replaced my rears at 33K and did the fronts about 2 months after that. They weren't gone, but they were close.
The rears in the G wear faster than the fronts, due to the amount of rear brake being applied by the VDC.
I replaced my rears at 33K and did the fronts about 2 months after that. They weren't gone, but they were close.
#10
with my driving- such as coasting to a stop and using engine braking before actual brake pedal, i think i prolong my brake life. all my past vehicles will go 50-60k miles no problem on brake pads. i do tend to warp stock rotors 3-4 times in that time period from the high speed braking. also, i hardly ever have my vdc kick in. so i guess my situation is unique.
hey primo-injected performance done any ecu flashes or piggy back tunes on HR motors? i would like a custom tune. PM me if you have an answer for me
hey primo-injected performance done any ecu flashes or piggy back tunes on HR motors? i would like a custom tune. PM me if you have an answer for me
#12
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^+1 rears do go out before fronts on this car largely due to vdc, i went with ceramic pads and am very happy with the reduced to near no brake dust on rims(means dont have to wash the car every other day) no noise what so ever and top notch braking! oh i do have slotted/drilled rotors that help a bit.
#14
with my driving- such as coasting to a stop and using engine braking before actual brake pedal, i think i prolong my brake life. all my past vehicles will go 50-60k miles no problem on brake pads. i do tend to warp stock rotors 3-4 times in that time period from the high speed braking. also, i hardly ever have my vdc kick in. so i guess my situation is unique.
I wish I could get that out of my G, but it'll never happen.
Yeah, I'm not a maniac on the roads, but the VDC kicks in quite a bit with even modest spirited driving.
#15
I can't see getting 60K out of these pads without a stick shift... it's just never gonna happen. Not with any sort of city/town driving anyway. All highway, maybe.
The rears in the G wear faster than the fronts, due to the amount of rear brake being applied by the VDC.
I replaced my rears at 33K and did the fronts about 2 months after that. They weren't gone, but they were close.
The rears in the G wear faster than the fronts, due to the amount of rear brake being applied by the VDC.
I replaced my rears at 33K and did the fronts about 2 months after that. They weren't gone, but they were close.
OP, I went OEM, they didn't fade for me even on the track, and they don't dust much.