DIY Brake Judder TSB today
#1
DIY Brake Judder TSB today
OK, so my 2007 G35S has only 17000 miles and has the brake judder issue for about the past 2000. Because the service dept at my dealership will likely deny it under warranty and also caused me a lot of grief in the past, I decided to do the TSB on my own--new front rotors, new front pads, revised front splash shields. Refer to ITB09-037a for the brake judder TSB.
I bought Centric premium rotors, and Hawk HP Ceramic pads from tirerack. I got the splash shields listed in the TSB from infinitipartsusa.com. Here's a pic of the new splash shields--different part number depending on your caliper type. My G35S has a big single piston caliper so the splash shields PN# 41151-1BF0A (r), 41161-1BF0A (l) which is listed in the Infiniti catalog as PLATE:BAFFLE, $30 each:
As you can see, the stock shield doesn't do a whole lot to protect the rotor. It's the black piece of metal behind the wheel hub.
I'm not going to describe what has already been covered to change rotors/pads. After you remove the brake caliper, torque member, and rotor, you need to remove the abs sensor and the 4 bolts holding the wheel hub to the knuckle--you need to turn the wheel to get to them. The wheel hub is a real bear to remove. It is on very tight, even without the bolts. I ended up threading some of the bolts back in a few turns and tapping them with a hammer from behind. The rest is pretty straight forward. Just remember that the hub has to be replaced with the slots on the back pointed up for the abs sensor to go back in. Also, this was the first nissan brake caliper I've worked on where the lower end was secured, not with a bolt, but a "location pin". You just need to remove the protective plastic cap and use a hex key to remove it.
Inside of wheel knuckle:
Stock splash shield with wheel hub removed (with a lot of sweat and penetrating lube spray!):
New splash shield installed:
Finished the install off with a good brake pad bedding session and then a Miller Lite!
I bought Centric premium rotors, and Hawk HP Ceramic pads from tirerack. I got the splash shields listed in the TSB from infinitipartsusa.com. Here's a pic of the new splash shields--different part number depending on your caliper type. My G35S has a big single piston caliper so the splash shields PN# 41151-1BF0A (r), 41161-1BF0A (l) which is listed in the Infiniti catalog as PLATE:BAFFLE, $30 each:
As you can see, the stock shield doesn't do a whole lot to protect the rotor. It's the black piece of metal behind the wheel hub.
I'm not going to describe what has already been covered to change rotors/pads. After you remove the brake caliper, torque member, and rotor, you need to remove the abs sensor and the 4 bolts holding the wheel hub to the knuckle--you need to turn the wheel to get to them. The wheel hub is a real bear to remove. It is on very tight, even without the bolts. I ended up threading some of the bolts back in a few turns and tapping them with a hammer from behind. The rest is pretty straight forward. Just remember that the hub has to be replaced with the slots on the back pointed up for the abs sensor to go back in. Also, this was the first nissan brake caliper I've worked on where the lower end was secured, not with a bolt, but a "location pin". You just need to remove the protective plastic cap and use a hex key to remove it.
Inside of wheel knuckle:
Stock splash shield with wheel hub removed (with a lot of sweat and penetrating lube spray!):
New splash shield installed:
Finished the install off with a good brake pad bedding session and then a Miller Lite!
#5
#7
from what i have heard, nissans large rotors warp easily due to temperature differences from the hub to the outer diameter of the rotor. The splash shield keeps ambient air and water off of the rotor so the temperature stays the same across the rotor. This is so it wont warp the metal.
just what i have interpreted
just what i have interpreted
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#8
from what i have heard, nissans large rotors warp easily due to temperature differences from the hub to the outer diameter of the rotor. The splash shield keeps ambient air and water off of the rotor so the temperature stays the same across the rotor. This is so it wont warp the metal.
just what i have interpreted
just what i have interpreted
Since this came up recently in another thread, I'm reviving this a bit.
I have heard this same interpretation before, but I could never figure out why, if the rotors are indeed so susceptible to temp variations, they don't continue to have issues caused by the other side of the rotor which does not have a shield. ????
Anybody have any thoughts around that?
#9
Maybe the problem is the temperature difference inside to outside and the shield evens that out...
I am about to find out because I am actually replacing my ebay rotors with another set from the same company. I contacted them about the issue and they said their warranty was only for 120 days but they would sell me another set for 80 shipped.
I couldn't resist....if these warp with the sheilds on, then I'll spend more on a higher quality set next time...
I am about to find out because I am actually replacing my ebay rotors with another set from the same company. I contacted them about the issue and they said their warranty was only for 120 days but they would sell me another set for 80 shipped.
I couldn't resist....if these warp with the sheilds on, then I'll spend more on a higher quality set next time...
#10
Maybe the problem is the temperature difference inside to outside and the shield evens that out...
I am about to find out because I am actually replacing my ebay rotors with another set from the same company. I contacted them about the issue and they said their warranty was only for 120 days but they would sell me another set for 80 shipped.
I couldn't resist....if these warp with the sheilds on, then I'll spend more on a higher quality set next time...
I am about to find out because I am actually replacing my ebay rotors with another set from the same company. I contacted them about the issue and they said their warranty was only for 120 days but they would sell me another set for 80 shipped.
I couldn't resist....if these warp with the sheilds on, then I'll spend more on a higher quality set next time...
Please keep us updated on that second set. It would be VERY good info for the forum to have.
As for as the temperature theory, I certainly don't know for sure, but it seems counter intuitive for the temperature to even out with one side nearly covered completely and the other completely exposed.
#11
Isn't the shield protecting the rotor from splashing water? I would think the rotating rim offers some protection coming from the outside.
The shield has to do something or I don't think Infiniti would have gone to the trouble of adding it. I know on my 95 Maxima, a similar shield was there stock.
The shield has to do something or I don't think Infiniti would have gone to the trouble of adding it. I know on my 95 Maxima, a similar shield was there stock.
#12
Isn't the shield protecting the rotor from splashing water? I would think the rotating rim offers some protection coming from the outside.
The shield has to do something or I don't think Infiniti would have gone to the trouble of adding it. I know on my 95 Maxima, a similar shield was there stock.
The shield has to do something or I don't think Infiniti would have gone to the trouble of adding it. I know on my 95 Maxima, a similar shield was there stock.
I would totally agree with that. It just that it seems like every reason is kinda weak, or at least you can come up with an equally plausible reason (to the layman) for the converse to be true. I just wish it made sense or that everyone who got one reported unanimously that it did indeed end the brake judder issues once and for all. Seems like a lot of effort for the retrofit if they results aren't significant.
#13
#14
I would assume so. I would raise hell if you are under warranty, even extended, and they refused to cover it.
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G35power (01-23-2012)
#15