Thoughts on this brake setup (R1)

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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 12:19 AM
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Thoughts on this brake setup (R1)

I dont like the warping of the stock rotors and the squealing of the pads. Not looking for super performance, just something to swap out the oem with. Looking at the R1 Premium blanks with Posi Quiet Ceramics at all 4 corners. can get the whole set for $360 shipped. Thoughts? Do i need to upgrade the lines as well?
 

Last edited by bat6wc; Jun 24, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 12:31 AM
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Well, you really don't NEED the lines, but eventually you'll probably end wishing you did them if you skip such a simple mod. If nothing else, it's a good excuse to flush out the fluid.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 01:25 AM
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^ whs, dont need em but can only help if you change em. I have r1 premium d/s with posi quiet ceramic for over or about 50k i think and couldnt be happier!
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 11:03 PM
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what is the install like for just pads?
 
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 11:44 PM
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^ the install is REALLY easy, for the front once u get the wheel off, just pop of the rubber plug covering the hex bolt on the bottom of the caliper, the remove the hex bolt and the caliper swings up and then you just remove the 'spring' retaining clips and then just pull the pads out and put the new ones in. for rear its same except its a regular bolt if i remember right
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by kool_yaar
^ the install is REALLY easy, for the front once u get the wheel off, just pop of the rubber plug covering the hex bolt on the bottom of the caliper, the remove the hex bolt and the caliper swings up and then you just remove the 'spring' retaining clips and then just pull the pads out and put the new ones in. for rear its same except its a regular bolt if i remember right
thats great to hear. I am going to go with the posi-quiet ceramics on the oem rotors and see if that helps performance and noise. apparently these dont need to be broken in
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 03:40 AM
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what about removing rotors? how bad is that?
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 04:17 AM
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Ya they are 'scorched' so all impurities are removed beforehand but a moderate breakin should only help.

The rotors are not that bad either, just like any other car....

1) once you get the caliper off(one hex bolt on bottom and then a regular bolt on top and the caliper should come off with some wiggling)

2) Open the brake master cylinder cap and wrap a cloth outside the container to catch any brake fluid overflow(if any) from when you push the piston back using a c-clamp and old pad.

3) Then there are just 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket to the car, get those off and then just a few blows of a hammer on the rotor and it comes right off.

4) same for rear except make sure you release the hand/foot brake and then this requires a few extra blow from a rubber hammer on the hat of the rotor to come off
(IF it doesnt budge then remove the small rubber grommet on the rotor and using a flat head screw driver turn the star wheel inside to loosen the parking brakes form the rotors and remember the number of turns/clicks so you can tighten to same specs after)

Might sound like a lot but its not that bad, basically taking off 4 bolts(2 caliper and 2 for the bracket on each rotor) and then hammer it or wiggle it off.

hope it helps
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by kool_yaar
Ya they are 'scorched' so all impurities are removed beforehand but a moderate breakin should only help.

The rotors are not that bad either, just like any other car....

1) once you get the caliper off(one hex bolt on bottom and then a regular bolt on top and the caliper should come off with some wiggling)

2) Open the brake master cylinder cap and wrap a cloth outside the container to catch any brake fluid overflow(if any) from when you push the piston back using a c-clamp and old pad.

3) Then there are just 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket to the car, get those off and then just a few blows of a hammer on the rotor and it comes right off.

4) same for rear except make sure you release the hand/foot brake and then this requires a few extra blow from a rubber hammer on the hat of the rotor to come off
(IF it doesnt budge then remove the small rubber grommet on the rotor and using a flat head screw driver turn the star wheel inside to loosen the parking brakes form the rotors and remember the number of turns/clicks so you can tighten to same specs after)

Might sound like a lot but its not that bad, basically taking off 4 bolts(2 caliper and 2 for the bracket on each rotor) and then hammer it or wiggle it off.

hope it helps
can you explain step 2 a little more?

so after the caliper and bracket are removed, the rotor should just come off with a couple soft hammer blows?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 12:09 AM
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you ever get this done Bat? I just got my rotors/pads shaved down right before my warranty ended this month but I'll be in your same boat before I know it...
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by drivethefive
you ever get this done Bat? I just got my rotors/pads shaved down right before my warranty ended this month but I'll be in your same boat before I know it...
did it wed. big difference. glad i finally got rid of the oem pads and rotors. no more judder, no more squealing, good stopping.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 01:08 PM
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^ just read your comment about the second step now since i dont visit this section a lot, but glad you got it done!

Just make sure you follow the brake in process exactly as listed on the instructions sent by R1 and allow enough time for teh cool down after the break-in process
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kool_yaar
^ just read your comment about the second step now since i dont visit this section a lot, but glad you got it done!

Just make sure you follow the brake in process exactly as listed on the instructions sent by R1 and allow enough time for teh cool down after the break-in process
Didnt go with R1, went with Centric and autoanything.com. Pads were scorched already and did not need a bedding process. 2 days on the brakes, and they feel great. got rid of all the judder and wobbling.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 06:04 PM
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^ great to hear! its only after you switch to aftermarket brake hardware that u realize how much the oem brake rotors and pads really suck
 
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Old Jul 6, 2012 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kool_yaar
^ great to hear! its only after you switch to aftermarket brake hardware that u realize how much the oem brake rotors and pads really suck
Hey kool_yaar,

I finally ordered replacements for my ebay front rotors...and mostly due to your good experience I chose R1Concepts premium D/S and posiquiet pads. Just ordered them a few minutes ago. I hope they work as well for me as they have for you.

I'll update my ebay rotor thread once I get the R1 rotors.
 
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