Nope, the paddles have the exact same response time as the console-mounted shifter. My method for rapid downshifts is to never have my foot on the throttle because when I do and try to drop down a gear, ESPECIALLY when downshifting to first, the car just bogs as if the transmission doesn't know that it's not supposed to be in neutral so when the trans finally gets "into gear", it feels like a neutral drop.. I've never had any issues with prompt up shifts, only downshifts.

 

i think this will be one off my first 3 mods im going to do for my G.

 

A few paddles for sale on Ebay but no trims! Maybe some custom work and save yourself about $200!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2011-IN...43673d&vxp=mtr

 

im having a problem putting my airbag back on the steering wheel. It's not fitting? all the wires are plugged in and it's still not going in all the way. any thoughts on this?

 

Its a very snug fit. The airbag screw are out of the way right?

 

yea i didn't have them in at all actually. just positioning the airbag itself. It doesn't push in all the way. Maybe i didn't put the steering wheel peices back together right? there seemed to be only one way to do it. I'm usually pretty handy with car parts

 

Can you take a pic of the inside of the steering wheel? let me take a look.

 

I thought I'd post my experience with removing my steering wheel in case anyone else has the same issue I had. I had to remove the steering wheel, not to do the paddle install (though this paddle install will be my next mod), but rather to replace the peeling trim bezel around the controls.

I had an issue removing one of the T30 tamper-proof torx bolts ( It is T30 by the way and not T27 as has been reported in other threads) from the airbag assembly. I did not have the correct bit, so I went down to my local Advance Auto and picked up a $13 bit driver set that included the correct bit. I started with the bit on a screwdriver handle driver and it was not budging. Moved the bit to a ratchet and it still wasn't moving. In fact, it bent the little teeth on the bit. This bit was just not cutting it. Bolt > bit. So, I went on Amazon and ordered a quality set of Bosch tamper-proof bits - I knew these would hold up. After getting them in, I tried again. This time, I started with the ratchet and went to torqueing away. Unfortunately, the bit was plenty strong, but the bolt was not - totally stripped out the torx bit. Argh! Bolt < Bit.

It seems to me that the steering wheel was removed at some point before I got the car and that bolt was just over-torqued when reinstalling it. The other side came right out with no issue. Reading through this thread, I saw that another user had the same issue and ended up drilling out the bolt. I plucked up the courage to do it myself and it wasn't bad at all. First, I picked up some replacement bolts from the local Nissan dealer (I'll post the part # later) so I could put things back together. Then, I drilled out the top of the bolt with a bit slightly smaller than the top, but slightly bigger than the rest. (I'll post the bit size later when I have it in front of me.) Once I got down to the shaft when drilling, the top just came right off and there's a washer that protects you from going too far, so don't be afraid. Once the top came off, I just kept drilling a little bit at a time, stopping occasionally to pull on the airbag until I had gone far enough for it to easily slide out. This is what the stubborn bolt looked like after drilling it out and removing the airbag:



I then use pliers to work the bolt through the nut. I tried backing it out, but it simply wouldn't budge. I was able to get it out by threading it through (left to right in the above picture) with the pliers. Basically, that was it. The other side bolt came out with no problem and the rest of the removal and reinstallation was cake. I hope this helps someone who has stripped the bolt and feels a little helpless/hopeless - there is hope and it's not as bad as you might imagine to drill it out and remove it. Can't wait to do it all over again when I install my paddle shifters. The next time should be MUCH easier.

 

^^ well, looking at that bolt, you can clearly see that is has blue threadlock all over it. The blue type is not normally so permanent, but in the future if you encounter something like this you can try applying some heat to loosen it up first. That should pretty much avoid having these issues in the first place.

.02

 

Thanks for the report. Once you have the steering wheel out, is it pretty self-explanatory on removing the trim bezel? I want to do that as well. I hope those bolts don't freeze up on me!

 

So i just went to check if i have the plugs on my 2007 G35x. I believe i do, but would really appreciate if someone can confirm if the right plug is larger than the left. I found two plugs not wrapped in foam, unlike all the pictures i have seen of the plugs wraped in foam, and want to confirm that these are in fact the correct plugs before ordering the paddles. If anyone can confirm this, it would be much appreciated. Cheers!

 

Nope, they're the exact same size.

 

Thanks for all the helpful input. I am tempted to do this to my '08x.

Can anybody confirm that kit will work on a Canadian G35x?

I called a local dealer and asked for pricing on the part numbers below: ~$425
I also called Riverside Infiniti in CA and their price is now $420.

25549-jk000 Shifter Paddles (Black)
48470-jk70a Cover Panels (Black)

I recall this kit costing approx 200 USD initially??

 

The black paddles have nearly doubled in price... unsure why, I sold a kit recently to someone who decided on the Grey/Silver paddles, for like $265.30

 

Of really? Thanks Phil. I may just order from you if that can work.

I presume the silver paddles would be fine in a black/charcoal interior. Does anyone have pics or a part number for the silver paddles?