DIY: Replacing Upper Rear Shock Bolt
#1
DIY: Replacing Upper Rear Shock Bolt
I recently bought BC coilovers and was one of the unlucky few that got the rattle in the rear. After over tightening the upper rear bolts (in hope my rattle would go away) I broke one of the studs. If you're familiar with the rear shock setup on many Nissan vehicles you'll know this is one of the worst things that can happen as the bolt is welded in from the top in a pretty unreachable place. I managed to replace the bolt and it has been holding up since I replaced it. This is just how I replaced mine, I know there are probably better ways to do this but I was tight on tools and time.
Broken Stud:
First I ground the stud down
Next I drilled a pilot hole
And then finished drilling the hole roughly the size of the 8mm bolt
And now this next part sounds a bit rigged but it has held well for me and for another guy the 350Z forum.
You're gonna want to try to sand down the above area where the hole has been drilled. Next get new 8x1.25 bolt and a washer and glop a bunch of JB weld on the washer and bolt and put it down through the hole. The JB weld merely holds the bolt in place as you gently tighten it. As it becomes tighter the torque between the nut and bolt will take over and keep it from spinning. I tightened it slowly until it was snug and then hit it with the impact gun on its lightest setting. After this it was tight enough to torque down to spec. It's held up so far with no issues. I'm sure there are better ways to do this but this worked for me in a time crunch.
Broken Stud:
First I ground the stud down
Next I drilled a pilot hole
And then finished drilling the hole roughly the size of the 8mm bolt
And now this next part sounds a bit rigged but it has held well for me and for another guy the 350Z forum.
You're gonna want to try to sand down the above area where the hole has been drilled. Next get new 8x1.25 bolt and a washer and glop a bunch of JB weld on the washer and bolt and put it down through the hole. The JB weld merely holds the bolt in place as you gently tighten it. As it becomes tighter the torque between the nut and bolt will take over and keep it from spinning. I tightened it slowly until it was snug and then hit it with the impact gun on its lightest setting. After this it was tight enough to torque down to spec. It's held up so far with no issues. I'm sure there are better ways to do this but this worked for me in a time crunch.
#5
#6
I know this is an old thread but for people who stumble upon it after searching this issue:
this happened to me and i used this procedure over the weekend, so far so good.
Word to the Wise: I was using progressively sized titanium coated drill bits and they just werent making it through what-so-ever. I went out an got a 7.9mm cobal (as in the metal not the brand) bit and it went right through in sub 5 seconds with an average power drill. Dont be shy on the JB weld either, i also needed a bit more than 20min before the new bolt wouldnt spin.
this happened to me and i used this procedure over the weekend, so far so good.
Word to the Wise: I was using progressively sized titanium coated drill bits and they just werent making it through what-so-ever. I went out an got a 7.9mm cobal (as in the metal not the brand) bit and it went right through in sub 5 seconds with an average power drill. Dont be shy on the JB weld either, i also needed a bit more than 20min before the new bolt wouldnt spin.
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