What is it that you foresee as a negative effect of installing it?

 

First off after starting the car runs on the alternator and so that is the reference ground. My understanding is that the voltage is stepped in something like 1/2 volt increments. With the current sensor in service it appears from what I have measured that the first effect is that the system initially goes to about 14 volts. The negative lead on the battery at this point carries current flow of somewhere over 5 amps on a battery that was fully charged depending on what else is running on the rest of the system. For short periods I have measured in the area of 30 amps but that was for very, very short periods. As far as the positive lead I measured this on my 08 xs to be around 41 amps max. As the battery charges up after the start the system steps down to around 5 amps on the negative lead. I would have to do this again for the exact values but at this point I have about 13.5 volts indicated by OBD and measured by DMM. Depending on the headlights being on or not the system goes to about 13.0 volts (lights off) or about 12.6 - 12.8 volts lights on. It then usually goes back up to settle in at 13.0 volts with under 2 amps carried by the negative battery lead. As you can see the stock negative lead is of plenty capacity to carry the loads present.

Now if the battery is not seen I have seen a variety of statements by others of where theirs go to, which on 07+ would be as Nissan states 'based on the characteristics of the IC'. I have noticed an unusual (or at least its seems that way) number of failed batteries in the group with grounding kits based only on what I see listed in the way of mods in posts about failed batteries by those with 07+ models. It seems to me that the system may run a little low on voltage early on because the battery current is not being seen which would be similar to my system with the battery charged up and the current sensor reading a very low value. Depending on how sensitive the current sensor is it either drops out of the picture completely or is sensing a lower value then it should with the new cable installed.

For example if the additional cable is the same size as the stock cable when mine is reading 5 amps at about the 13.5 volt value another with the cable installed may be running at 13.0 volts since it would be sensing about half of the 5 amps. A larger cable would cause the stock cable to be carrying less current so the sensor would indicate less still. When the current drops under about 2 amps the system is running at about 13.0 volts. I am not sure exactly how far under since I can only measure down to 2 amps accurately.

Since the system steps in 1/2 volt increments I think when I see the 12.6 - 12.8 volts we may be seeing the characteristics of the IC as the first steps are all 1/2 volt increments. Also the system seems to drift a little bit before settling in at the 13.0 area where it once more appears to be stable.

 

huh

 

Your research seems exhaustive. You've certainly done more than I have if you've discovered hard evidence that there are a higher number of battery related failures in users of my grounding kits than those who don't have them. This is news to me. Frankly I'm surprised that it's has never been mentioned to me by even one single customer.

I suppose I shouldn't expect a purchase from you anytime in the forseeable future.

 

lol..N E WAY...
hey can you pm me your paypal addy. so I can send you payment for BB grounding kit for my 05 G35 6MT coupe in CF finish.

pm me shipped to 60007.

 

The first thing you would have to do from your customer standpoint is isolate 07+ users from those prior to 07. Second you would have to pay attention to the posts from these customers who have had battery failures for commonalities. I state this since I believe few have any concept of a possible issue with their battery failures being related to a grounding kit since on the surface few would see an issue with charging rates being related to a grounding kit. That is because few know that on an 07+ Infiniti that it actually has part of its charging circuit located on the OEM negative battery lead which is then at least partially bypassed by an aftermarket negative battery lead which affects charging rates as well as possible effects related to why it exists in the first place:

'By performing the power generation voltage variable control, the engine load due to the power generation of
the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased.
NOTE:
When any malfunction is detected in the power generation voltage variable control system, the power generation
is performed according to the characteristic of the IC regulator of the alternator.'

It doesn't surprise me at all that few have bothered to look at the FSMs in regards to mods they are considering and the possible effects on various OEM components of their vehicles. How many have looked at the FSMs of their charging circuits?

If I was to purchase a kit this is what I would look for:

Cadweld or some other pressure welded connector (assuming the connector is even present)

A grounding block or grounding ring that ensures an equipotential grounding scheme to control circular currents as well as possible issues with eddy currents

Non stacking of grounds such as typical in kits that will stack more than two conductors on a single bolt or stud to ensure equipotential grounding

In the case of use for improvement of signal transmission wire gauge and wire lengths selected specifically for the load

If grounding a drain line for a sensor that the drain line is only grounded on one end, preferably at the source

Designed to either not bypass critical installed systems such as part of a charging circuit or to replace with an improved replacement

 

I have an '07 and the kit has been on the car for over 12k miles. I've had the car since it was 13k miles old and currently have 38k on the original battery.

 

also i think defratos metioned this maybe it was someone else but i recieved 50 more miles on the gas tank....lol....from 175mi to 225 or so after the install...normal i guess? more gas..!!

 

What year is this? This actually is one of the reasons for the current sensor to exist, to help improve gas mileage.

You did reset your ECM after the install correct?

 

itsan 07 and no, how do you properly re-set the ECM?

 

^ Option 3 should work for us.
https://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy...cu-resets.html

Although, disconnecting the battery and/or having the car relearn should achieve the same thing.

 

Something like:

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the MI starts
blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
ECM has entered to Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).

How to Erase Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)
1. Set ECM in Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results).
Mode II (Self-diagnostic Results)" .
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
The emission-related diagnostic information has been erased from the backup memory in the ECM.
3. Fully release the accelerator pedal, and confirm the DTC 0000 is displayed.

The above is suppose to be for newer Nissan based ECMs, the below one looks basically the same but includes the instructions to count the flashes:

1) Sit in the driver's seat.
2) Turn the ignition key to the ON position and wait three seconds. (Do not start the car.)
3) Fully depress and release the accelerator pedal five times in less than five seconds.
4) Wait exactly seven seconds. Fully depress the accelerator pedal for ten seconds until the SES light flashes.
5) Release the accelerator pedal and start counting flashes to obtain the four-digit trouble code.

Long flashes (0.6 seconds) indicate the first digit of the code; count the blinks one through nine and write down the first digit. (Ten blinks indicates a zero.)
The next three digits follow in turn in the same fashion except with faster blinks (0.3 second) and a 1.0-second pause between digits.

The ECM code repeats itself until you turn the ignition key to the OFF position, at which point the ECM resets itself to standard get-in-and-drive-the-car mode.

Additionally, if you get four blinks of ten (0000), the ECM is indicating no malfunction.

You can clear the code (and the annoying SES light) by holding down the accelerator pedal for more than 10 seconds while the SES light is blinking. When you release the pedal, the ECM erases the trouble code(s).



p.s. It is located in the EC section of the FSM for 2007.

 

As I stated before, not a single customer has complained to me regarding any battery issues that they've noticed after installation of my wires. Pre '07 or '07+. Therefore I don't have comparison data that you have access to.

On my own car ('08 G37 6MT) I've not experienced any in the 16 months or so they've been on my car. None of our local owners that I know personally and see regularly have had issues either.

 

That works the same with or without grounding kits with many reporting similar results.

Infiniti states to do this using the battery disconnect that you should do so for 24 hours, others state 12 hours works as well.

One advantage of doing the gas pedal method is that you probably can keep your presets for the rest of your system such as your radio, ect.

 

So you are stating it has no effects on the charging system. I am not surprise that no one would recognize this kind of issue since it would normally not make any sense to connect a new or addition ground cable to the battery as maybe causing an issue with the charging circuit. That is because few know that part of the charging circuit is located on the stock cable. And probably fewer still understand how two cables in parallel may affect it.

Beside being something like a slow reacting 1 Farad capacitor the battery is simply another load on the running system requiring no greater than about an 18 gauge cable to maintain it which is well within the abilities of the stock cable which in turn is sized to start the car and run all accesories without disabling any features of the charging system. Now it just may be possible to replace it with a larger cable and still maintain the charging system benefits which is on its third model year depending on if the ct is one of a split design.

But then you appear to have known about this particular issue since at least the last three months. At least one documented customer has removed this particular cable from their installed kit.