Idle RPM drop??
anyway, i have 300km's to go before my next service so i'll let you know then.
copied and pasted a long time ago>>
press the ignition twice without pressing the brake pedal to get to the "ON" mode(without the car starting)
count three seconds
floor the gas pedal and release 5 times within 5 seconds from beginning to end
count 7 seconds
hold the gas pedal to the floor for 10seconds to begin the code reading part(flashing checkenginelight).............continue to hold the pedal down without releasing for another 10seconds(20secs total) and the check engine light will stop flashing and steadily illuminate.
at that point press the brake pedal and start the car. let it run for atleast 20seconds.
press the ignition twice without pressing the brake pedal to get to the "ON" mode(without the car starting)
count three seconds
floor the gas pedal and release 5 times within 5 seconds from beginning to end
count 7 seconds
hold the gas pedal to the floor for 10seconds to begin the code reading part(flashing checkenginelight).............continue to hold the pedal down without releasing for another 10seconds(20secs total) and the check engine light will stop flashing and steadily illuminate.
at that point press the brake pedal and start the car. let it run for atleast 20seconds.
This thing.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: FL
When a car's rpm races up and down at idle it usually means there is an air leak some where after the air flow meter. And sometimes it could be the idle air sensor. I had that same problem with my Accord.
i just dropped my car to the dealer this morning to fix the issue. I'll let you know the outcome when i get it. Thing is, i can hear a very quiet whistling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. it's not the intake tube. I suspect it's a vacuum leak from one of the vacuum lines. I told him about the sound and it's quit audible when you listen closely but the stupid technician blamed the rough idle on my Injen intake as soon as i popped the hood. What kinda fuked up auto school did he graduate from? 
OP: it really sounds like a vacuum leak so if the ECU reset doesn't work, check your vacuum hoses.
EDIT: just saw your latest post
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
From: Bahrain
i just dropped my car to the dealer this morning to fix the issue. I'll let you know the outcome when i get it. Thing is, i can hear a very quiet whistling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. it's not the intake tube. I suspect it's a vacuum leak from one of the vacuum lines. I told him about the sound and it's quit audible when you listen closely but the stupid technician blamed the rough idle on my Injen intake as soon as i popped the hood. What kinda fuked up auto school did he graduate from?
Let me know what does the stealership tell u, i realy need to solve this problem. Its very irritating.
Update-
so they called me in today and told me my car was done. The previous technicians weren't there since I dropped the car off in the morning and today I picked it up at 8pm. Anyhow, The car was actually NOT done and the RPM still fluctuates. Infact the first time I had to start the car it just shut off.
They checked the ECU and there are no codes however they checked the A/F Alpha readings on bank 1 and 2 sensors on the manifolds and one is reading 127% and the other 129%. These sensors should read anywhere between 95-105% so something is definitely wrong here. The technicians that were there told me it was because of my aftermarket exhaust (Stillen).
Does anyone know if these is even possible? How can A/F readings at the headers read differently due to a catback? the catalyst sensors are reading fine as well as a lot of other readings are okay including ignition timing and sensors voltages. I'm lost here. Is it possible for a vacuum leak to cause such an issue? I'm going to take off my exhaust and intake and drop the car off on Saturday to recheck all the sensor readings. If they still read the same then something is definitely wrong with the sensor itself.
Any input appreciated.
so they called me in today and told me my car was done. The previous technicians weren't there since I dropped the car off in the morning and today I picked it up at 8pm. Anyhow, The car was actually NOT done and the RPM still fluctuates. Infact the first time I had to start the car it just shut off.
They checked the ECU and there are no codes however they checked the A/F Alpha readings on bank 1 and 2 sensors on the manifolds and one is reading 127% and the other 129%. These sensors should read anywhere between 95-105% so something is definitely wrong here. The technicians that were there told me it was because of my aftermarket exhaust (Stillen).
Does anyone know if these is even possible? How can A/F readings at the headers read differently due to a catback? the catalyst sensors are reading fine as well as a lot of other readings are okay including ignition timing and sensors voltages. I'm lost here. Is it possible for a vacuum leak to cause such an issue? I'm going to take off my exhaust and intake and drop the car off on Saturday to recheck all the sensor readings. If they still read the same then something is definitely wrong with the sensor itself.
Any input appreciated.
Update-
so they called me in today and told me my car was done. The previous technicians weren't there since I dropped the car off in the morning and today I picked it up at 8pm. Anyhow, The car was actually NOT done and the RPM still fluctuates. Infact the first time I had to start the car it just shut off.
They checked the ECU and there are no codes however they checked the A/F Alpha readings on bank 1 and 2 sensors on the manifolds and one is reading 127% and the other 129%. These sensors should read anywhere between 95-105% so something is definitely wrong here. The technicians that were there told me it was because of my aftermarket exhaust (Stillen).
Does anyone know if these is even possible? How can A/F readings at the headers read differently due to a catback? the catalyst sensors are reading fine as well as a lot of other readings are okay including ignition timing and sensors voltages. I'm lost here. Is it possible for a vacuum leak to cause such an issue? I'm going to take off my exhaust and intake and drop the car off on Saturday to recheck all the sensor readings. If they still read the same then something is definitely wrong with the sensor itself.
Any input appreciated.
so they called me in today and told me my car was done. The previous technicians weren't there since I dropped the car off in the morning and today I picked it up at 8pm. Anyhow, The car was actually NOT done and the RPM still fluctuates. Infact the first time I had to start the car it just shut off.
They checked the ECU and there are no codes however they checked the A/F Alpha readings on bank 1 and 2 sensors on the manifolds and one is reading 127% and the other 129%. These sensors should read anywhere between 95-105% so something is definitely wrong here. The technicians that were there told me it was because of my aftermarket exhaust (Stillen).
Does anyone know if these is even possible? How can A/F readings at the headers read differently due to a catback? the catalyst sensors are reading fine as well as a lot of other readings are okay including ignition timing and sensors voltages. I'm lost here. Is it possible for a vacuum leak to cause such an issue? I'm going to take off my exhaust and intake and drop the car off on Saturday to recheck all the sensor readings. If they still read the same then something is definitely wrong with the sensor itself.
Any input appreciated.
I was told by a person i know in there that they only need to do throttle idle position learning and the problem is gone, but those at Infiniti are too stupid to do understand that even thought i told them, bottom line is don't bother your self, they won't solve it, and btw an ECU reflash can fix that problem.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
They have no clue how to fix it, so they make up excuses.
...how many hundreds of G35/7s are there out there with aftermarket exhaust & intake.
& how many have no problem? sheeesh
I TOTALLY agree with you, they know nothing other than oil/filter change.
Alright, so then what could be causing the high A/F Alpha reading? Is it possible that two sensors can just randomly go out like that? I took off the exhaust today and tomorrow will take off the intakes. Will visit them again on Saturday and see what happens. Oh and FYI, they void my warranty because I have "modifications" on the car. My engine is no longer warranted. Apparently these are dealer policies. You have no idea how furious I am now...
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
Likes: 47
From: Toronto, GTA north
Originally Posted by Q8y_drifter
...Oh and FYI, they void my warranty because I have "modifications" on the car. My engine is no longer warranted. Apparently these are dealer policies. You have no
Is this a written policy? and were you informed at time of purchase?
More BS...
Stuff like this just burns my azz.
...
Is it consistent data that everyone with the problem has had the remap TSB?
I doubt it's the sensors, since a BD download apparently fixes the problem.
i have no idea about the remap. I'm hoping I can get the BD soon and just be done with it. Hopefully it works on my G. If the A/F percentages do not change after going back to stock I'm gonna have a word with someone high up.
