Void your warranty my a$$, if you removed your mods and went to them again they won't even know it was you who was there last night, they're dumb as $hit, they would only void your warranty if you opened your engine block, or if you took off your ECU for a reflash, those are the cases, a friend of mine owns BMW M3 and he got intake/exhaust and reflash on it, each time he goes to the dealer he take them off and go them, until his warranty officially ended and they never noticed anything, and he always go for the oil change with mods on, but whenever he have to leave the car a day or two at the dealer he had to return the car to stock.
If they told you they void your warranty, tell them to suck on my left nut, i know their head manager and those stuff never void the warranty, i've been dealing with them since 2004, don't worry about voiding your warranty.

 

I went to the dealship today to get my RPM raised from 650rpm to 750rpm, so i took my car there and told them that the car need to flush Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) so it can run smoother, the guy smiled and said you must've installed all your mods at the same shop since everyone is telling them the same, i was about to punch him the face and went angry on him and i told him that this problem is happening to all 2008 G35's and it's posted on the forums and all of us reading it, and that everyone has installed their mods by their selves, and i met a guy last night with a stock G35 which had the same problem and it's stock AND it was a 2008 modle, and he told me that the dealer couldn't fix his problem as well.
Anyways i raised the idle today and i'll if anything happens, maybe it'll solve the problem, i'll update you later.

I hope this would help :

Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.


Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.


Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.




This is a copy/paste from Technosquare website.

 

wait a second when was "today"? I went to the dealer ship today at 8am left at 9am I think. I did not talk to the service manager since he hates me lol, I snuck in to the garage from the back.
There's a philipino guy at the computer he's a cool dude he let me recheck all the A/F Alpha numbers again after removing my mods. They're back to 107%-104% on both banks. It turns out that the high A/F Alpha readings are not caused due to the intake but the exhaust. When I took the exhaust off my idle was stable again. The guy said that the 2.5" piping on the Stillen was rather big which caused too little back pressure at idle and so the A/F Alpha do not get the correct readings. Didn't quite understand him but I think that's what he meant. The intake was good and he said I should put it back in lol.
BTW, did you go back there as well? He told me about another guy with a "long tube intake" LOL
When the service manager knew he took the test again he went all crazy because the mechanic didn't tell them to charge me another $100 for the 2-minute test. Hahaha

 

^ that's interesting....
I wonder what Stillen's reaction would be?

 

Keep in mind that he's in Kuwait... there's the federal Moss-Magnuson Act keeping the dealers from voiding warranty because of mods here in the states, otherwise, any mod before emissions can be viewed as a good reason for them to void your warranty.

 

I went there at 1:30pm, i went to the philipino dude too, his name is Jun, and he told me about the other G's, the G he told you about is a G37 coupe, anyways Invidia piping is 60mm (2.25"), and that rpm problem disappeared after i installed the Injen CAI.
Btw i didn't pay anything, so why did you pay?
And which guy hates you? the Indian or the the bald tall guy?

 

hahaha, lol, was that balled or bald.

...could be either I guess.

 

LOL, you are mean , so it's a little spelling mistake and you understood it, he's bald.

 

lol... sorry I couldn't help myself.


....at least you didn't say "big balled guy"

 

LOL, quit doing that guys, whenever some none english speaking person make a single spelling mistake he ends up being the laughing stock in that thread for the next 5 pages .

 

the big bold tall guy at the front desk the Indian is cool too even though he's clueless lol

 

...sounds like a strange way to run a place that you guys can just jump in the back door,
& bypass the service desk.
Cool for you guys, but strange....

No way that'd happen here.

 

G35s-dude, i paid because my warranty was void, and if I didn't pay they would not give me the car.

InTgr8r, the service garage was in the rear of the building, the entrance was open so when i went there none of the service desk guys knew, but the mechanics themselves were cool with that hehe.

 

That's great...
If the dealership is crappy, it nice that the techs are cool.

 

One of them even recommended I tune my ECU considering the stock maps cannot fix the idle issue haha.