Idle RPM drop??

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  #61  
Old 09-06-2009, 05:34 PM
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I told you thats the only way to solve the problem, a reflash.
But anyways i guess they fooled you about warrenty void, if you made some big fuss there they would beg you to leave and they'll tell you the warrenty is fine, but i guess you didn't know how to deal with them, if they told me my warrenty is void, i might kill somebody, i got a short fuse against BS and stupidity.
 
  #62  
Old 09-09-2009, 07:26 AM
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So from what i understand from the pervious posts. That Both of you guys went down to the dealer and came out with empty hands. And there was no solution to the problem?

G35s-Dude, when you raised the idle from 650 to 750 how did the car run?

Do we seriously need a reflash to have this problem solved? Becuase if this is the solution let the dealer go and burn them selves.
 
  #63  
Old 09-10-2009, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Bahg35
So from what i understand from the pervious posts. That Both of you guys went down to the dealer and came out with empty hands. And there was no solution to the problem?

G35s-Dude, when you raised the idle from 650 to 750 how did the car run?

Do we seriously need a reflash to have this problem solved? Becuase if this is the solution let the dealer go and burn them selves.
Nothing changed, it's the same, the dealer doesn't know what to do, and i think the reflash would correct it, it's just my opinion.
 
  #64  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:17 AM
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Update:

Two days ago, Ive took my car to the dealer for 30K service, and the RPM jerking issue.

Took the mechanic with me for a spin showed him everything and the car died once we were back from the test drive. I was very happy that everything happened in front of his eyes.

Today I get a call from them asking me to go and test drive the car, since they have "solved" the issue by removing my GEN3 Intakes and putting the stock ones on.

The mechanic jumps in with me for a quick drive. For ten mins the car was normal I was surprised. After the car got warmed up. The RPM was fluctuating only, going down and up between 650-750 and not staying constant. NO jerking no RPM drop at all. Another 20 mins of driving, I stopped next to a traffic light, put the gear into neutral. Waited for 3 seconds and BOOM the jerk is back. The mechanic was shocked and he couldn’t say anything beside I have to put it on the computer and check.

Now they are going to put my car on the Computer so they can see if there is any reading of the sensors.

I will update you guys once I have a word from them.
 
  #65  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:33 AM
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Do you have an exhaust? did they do the Idle Air Volume Learning procedure? Intakes do not cause the RPM fluctuation since the MAF will instantly adjust accordingly. Mine occured due to what seems like a decrease in exhaust back pressure from the Stillen exhaust. Although something to note, After taking off my exhaust, about 80% of the fluctuation disappeared. It will still sometimes do it when you turn the A/C ON/OFF or do anything that would otherwise require a change in idle RPM such as shifting from N to D and visa versa. I still need to do the IAVL procedure after taking off my exhaust so that may be the issue for me.
 
  #66  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Q8y_drifter
Do you have an exhaust? did they do the Idle Air Volume Learning procedure? Intakes do not cause the RPM fluctuation since the MAF will instantly adjust accordingly. Mine occured due to what seems like a decrease in exhaust back pressure from the Stillen exhaust. Although something to note, After taking off my exhaust, about 80% of the fluctuation disappeared. It will still sometimes do it when you turn the A/C ON/OFF or do anything that would otherwise require a change in idle RPM such as shifting from N to D and visa versa. I still need to do the IAVL procedure after taking off my exhaust so that may be the issue for me.
My exhaust is stock. I only have Gen3 Intake and BB grounding kit.

I didnt ask if they did the Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure or not. but i will call them tmw morning to ask, if not i will ask em if they can do so. I even mentioned that two guys in Q8 got the same issue and their dealer couldn't fix it.

I get it as well during shifting from N to D, and even in reverse the car died on me once while i was reversing.

The only solution i think as G35-Dude has mentioned is getting a tune.
 
  #67  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:09 AM
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Since you are stock now, do the procedure first. Also, let them check all the sensors (intake, cats, headers, etc.) to see if anything is going on. If they checked all the sensors, performed the procedure and the RPM still fluctuates then this is definitely a warranty issue which they should try and fix. Also, it's possible but unlikely that you might have a vacuum leak. Although such an issue would trigger a code as far as I know, but to be safe you should check that too.
 
  #68  
Old 09-15-2009, 05:59 PM
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Thanks alot bro i realy appreciate the help and the info.

I will call them first thing when i get to the office tmw, once i get any feedback and i will let you know.
 
  #69  
Old 09-16-2009, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bahg35
My exhaust is stock. I only have Gen3 Intake and BB grounding kit.

I didnt ask if they did the Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure or not. but i will call them tmw morning to ask, if not i will ask em if they can do so. I even mentioned that two guys in Q8 got the same issue and their dealer couldn't fix it.

I get it as well during shifting from N to D, and even in reverse the car died on me once while i was reversing.

The only solution i think as G35-Dude has mentioned is getting a tune.
Since there are a few here that have stated they have a grounding kit on an 07 and up and in this case I think you state it occurs with your A/C on then maybe check the following issue out:

If you have a grounding kit that has a second or replacement negative cable from your battery then you may have just bypassed part of your charging circuit. This is because there is a current sensor on the negative battery cable. If no voltage is being seen from this current sensor than the alternator IC will default to a set voltage. I would be interested in knowing what your battery voltage is shortly after a start and also after several minutes. It seems to me that it may well run a little lower than normal on the newer 'G' models.

As a reference my 08 XS runs about 14 volts right after starting. Depending on loading it will normally drop to about 13 volts, but maybe as low as 12.6 if everything is on such as lights, A/C, etc. It will then slowly increase back up to about 13 volts if lower.

It may be worth while to disconnect the new negative battery lead and see what occurs afterwards as far as idle issues etc. especially if it seems to be related to a load such as the A/C. Since your car normally is running off the alternator then the ground reference seems like it should be at where the alternator is grounded. The battery becomes a load after starting but without the current sensor is not seen as such or at least not as designed.
 
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:23 AM
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Update:

I called the dealer yesterday, and I have mentioned all what you guys have stated above.

I got a call back today. The mechanic has told me that the car is running fine now. They have tested the car on the computer and all the sensors reading were fine. They discovered that the throttle body was dirty. After cleaning it they went for around a 35KM test drive. No RPM fluctuating no jerking at all during the test.

Okay, it seems that what they are saying could be right. But I'm still not sure if this is really the problem. However I'm going there on Saturday and test the car my self, under my driving conditions and see what's up.

Your input on the above will be appreciated.
 
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:36 AM
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how do u clean the throttle body?? wonder if warrany will cover this... ill put my stock intake back on haha
 
  #72  
Old 09-17-2009, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bahg35
Update:

I called the dealer yesterday, and I have mentioned all what you guys have stated above.

I got a call back today. The mechanic has told me that the car is running fine now. They have tested the car on the computer and all the sensors reading were fine. They discovered that the throttle body was dirty. After cleaning it they went for around a 35KM test drive. No RPM fluctuating no jerking at all during the test.

Okay, it seems that what they are saying could be right. But I'm still not sure if this is really the problem. However I'm going there on Saturday and test the car my self, under my driving conditions and see what's up.

Your input on the above will be appreciated.
Do you have oil based filters on your intakes?
 
  #73  
Old 09-17-2009, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pfarmer
Do you have oil based filters on your intakes?
I'm thinking the same thing lol
 
  #74  
Old 09-17-2009, 04:02 PM
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guys i have the same problem and you can read my thread https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-37-...omani-guy.html


i have no experience with a car like this !! before i had a 07 Mustang and it was just fine

and sorry for not explaining the problem in the right way !! but I don't know what the hell is going with me
 
  #75  
Old 09-17-2009, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by pfarmer
Do you have oil based filters on your intakes?
Originally Posted by Q8y_drifter
I'm thinking the same thing lol
LoL, Yes !!!!




......
 


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