I don't want your money Ian, but thanks for the offer.
What I do need is more hours in a day... I'm too busy for this stuff!

 

That's my problem too.... I tried booking a couple of times.
The weird azz time slots available just don't work for me.
The decent time slots are booked two months ahead.

 

Thanks Ball.Saxbury for taking the time to do this test and thanks to the posters who donated cash.

As others have said, anything but a controlled test is just BS.

 

Would love to see another run done for comparison. Looking at you Scott I'm in no rush for a tune yet haha.

 

I'm going dig around for some other dynos in the area to see if I can git 'er dun.

..the more we can get the better the data.

 

my offer is still open if you all want to send me your BD for testing.

 

What exactly does "acclimating to the tune" mean? I thought WOT used an open loop map. Also, no matter what the absolute numbers the dyno spit out, isn't the important point that the relative numbers were lower?

 

open loop refers to the fuel being supplied based on the MAF reading and not correcting itself by taking the o2 sensor into account.

acclimating to the tune would refer to the timing multiplier.

You have 2 maps. Your base timing and your timing advance table.

In between those two, you have a timing multiplier that adjusts.

The timing multiplier will usually start out low and increase as time and mileage allows it to read the knock sensitivity of the setup and determine how much total timing it will run.

If your base table defined at 5,000 rpms and 100% load to run 20 degrees, and your advance table had a value of 4 at the same rpm and load, your multiplier will determine whether or not you can run a total of 24 degrees or anywhere in between.

If your knock is REALLY bad, you can even go negative.

With a multiplier of .5, the calculation would look something like this 20 x (4 x .50). You'd be running 22 degrees. If your ecu was consistently happy there and never knocked, it might increase the multiplier a bit. .8

20x(4x.8) = 23.2

So because you drove it a bit and it was happy, it increased your timing and you make more power.

That's the long, short version for why the tune must "acclimate"

 

Hey Guys,

A few things I want to clear up.

1. 35% drivetrain loss is considered normal for Nissan-built transmissions, according to the guys at the dyno. I was also amazed at this much loss, but they said for these AWD transmissions, drivetrain loss is traded for smoothness.

2. There is nothing wrong with the car or the dyno.

3. It doesn't matter what the actual numbers are, the relative numbers are all that matter. With all conditions controlled, the Bully Dog made the car lose a horsepower. That's the important thing.

4. The first BD run was with +0, I advanced the timing from +0 to +2 for the second BD run, but the results were identical.

 

do you know what kind of dyno it was?

Dynapak? Dyno Dynamics? Mustang? Dyno Jet?

If it was a Dyno Dynamics, the numbers wouldn't be surprising at all. It's known as the heartbreaker.

 

Thanks for the explanation Scooby. Does that mean back to back dyno testing of mods is useless? To level the playing field, could one reset the ECU for stock and with the Bully dog just so both start from the same state?

 

It's a Superflow 880, according to the website (carzperformance.com).

 

So the car lost a horsepower post-BD tune...

I realize that 'butt dynos' are unreliable, as expectations of increased power can cause one to perceive an imaginary increase in power, but I installed the bully dog tuner in my ECU this morning and noticed a significant difference. Quite significant, actually. Btw, I own a Nissan Altima SE-R and happened upon this forum while doing research on the availability of real-world testing results for Bully Dog ECU tuners. The car seems to shift faster (AT), and pulls harder after 3500 - 4000 RPMs, especially in second and third gear.

Not that it will necessarily help G35 owners directly, but I plan on locating a Dyno testing facility and posting results pre and post BD tuner installation, with everything else being equal (i.e. the car is stock besides a bully dog tune).

 

No not at all. Most mods will make more power regardless of whether or not the timing scales back a little bit and needs to learn again. The only problem is you may not see exactly how much power you're given back to back.

My guess would be the reason why the timing +2 option did nothing is because it's increasing the timing advance table by 2....and until that multiplier adjusts, you're still going to be running the base timing plus what it thinks is safe.

And the thing is....unless your multiplier was all the way at 1 and you were completely knock free, adding +2 to the table won't help ultimately. If you were at 23 degrees and you knocked to the point the multiplier stopped...if you gave it a ceiling of 25, it's still only going to run 23 because that's where it's happy.

 

^ thanks Scooby....
....so how does one dyno and get true results from the change?

Should it come off the dyno, load the BD change, take it for a run, & then test?