Break-In Schedule
Originally Posted by Bigred14
So lets say quite few people do A$$ rape the car right out the door, and don't bother with any break in period.
Is something going to go wrong? I don't think so, and the reason is simple, the manufacturer and engineers that make the car know that statistically speaking, a certain percentage of people are not going to heed the "break in period" rules or even touch the user manual.
If there were to be issues with not following the break-in period suggested by the manufacturer, then a huge percentage of these cars would have these issues, most likely before the car is out of warrenty therefore costing the manufacturer money, because they have no proof to tell them how the car was "broken in".
I'm still curious what sort of issues one would suspect form a car that wasn't properly broken in.
Is something going to go wrong? I don't think so, and the reason is simple, the manufacturer and engineers that make the car know that statistically speaking, a certain percentage of people are not going to heed the "break in period" rules or even touch the user manual.
If there were to be issues with not following the break-in period suggested by the manufacturer, then a huge percentage of these cars would have these issues, most likely before the car is out of warrenty therefore costing the manufacturer money, because they have no proof to tell them how the car was "broken in".
I'm still curious what sort of issues one would suspect form a car that wasn't properly broken in.
Problems from in-proper break-in might not show up for some time.. maybe not at all depending on the severity or abuse. Too many variables to pin point exactly what may happen.
It's not just the engine you are breaking in.. The transmission, rear end, brakes, etc... also form wear patterns and benefit from gradual heat cycles.
If you were buying a used car, would you choose one that was carefully broken in or one that was a$$ raped from day one?
Originally Posted by Bigred14
I'm still curious what sort of issues one would suspect form a car that wasn't properly broken in.
Originally Posted by CarNutz
and this is based on what? Your vast experience in engine building..?
The break-in period is still very important in a new modern engine. I don't agree that it has to be for 1200 miles... but it can't hurt.
New engines are very tight and rough machine surfaces cause excessive heat on engine parts. Running the engine easy allows these areas to be smoothed out without uneven heat build-up. Rings need to seat properly so they won't scar the hatch pattern that keeps the oil from draining too fast off the cylinder walls.
A proper break-in will help ensure the engine will perform to spec years down the road...
The break-in period is still very important in a new modern engine. I don't agree that it has to be for 1200 miles... but it can't hurt.
New engines are very tight and rough machine surfaces cause excessive heat on engine parts. Running the engine easy allows these areas to be smoothed out without uneven heat build-up. Rings need to seat properly so they won't scar the hatch pattern that keeps the oil from draining too fast off the cylinder walls.
A proper break-in will help ensure the engine will perform to spec years down the road...
Originally Posted by wineskigolf
As a matter of fact, yes. 12 years as a R & D VP for Dana Corp qualifies as vast experience in any court.
There used to be a saying "Never have a dick size contest on the Usenet". Too often, the local genius would find himself arguing the fine points of Unix with dmr.
Originally Posted by GEE35X
I honestly believe you have a greater chance of excessive oil consumption and compression losses later on if you drive the bejeeezus out of it from day one.
Me I hardly keep a car more than 2 years, maybe 3 at the most, then I trade it in for something better/different.
Maybe I'll keep the G longer.
I don't know what the answer is, I don't think it matters. But I will say
Originally Posted by CarNutz
If you were buying a used car, would you choose one that was carefully broken in or one that was a$$ raped from day one?
Last edited by Bigred14; Apr 20, 2007 at 04:55 PM.
From what I understand, the break in is not as much for the motor as it is for all the other working, moving parts of the car. The motor is tested and ran in factory, but the trans, axles, brakes, etc are not as tested as an engine. By keeping your rpms low at first, and gradually increasing, you can really test and work out the transmission in a new car without overstressing it. Gradual wear, as opposed to immediate beating, may bring to light any problems inherent from the production line.
Hello All,
Just picked up my 07' last weekend and had to drive about 250 highway miles home. Although I did use cruise control for 70% of the trip, I did use the paddles to vary my RPM speed frequently - not to mention having to speed up/down to account for traffic, lane changes, etc...
Think I have anything to worry about with a proper break-in?
Thanks,
Just picked up my 07' last weekend and had to drive about 250 highway miles home. Although I did use cruise control for 70% of the trip, I did use the paddles to vary my RPM speed frequently - not to mention having to speed up/down to account for traffic, lane changes, etc...
Think I have anything to worry about with a proper break-in?
Thanks,
High revs bad for new G in break in period?
A few times I have switched in DS mode to use engine braking coming off a freeway and I downshift to 3rd "too soon" which revs the car way over 4000. Will this hurt the car? I am keeping the tach below 4000 rpm for the 1200 miles but I wonder if these "oops!!" are damaging the tranny?
Another goof -- in my previous car (Lexus ES330) in DBW mode the gear you set is the "maximum", for example, if I am in 3rd gear and come to a full stop, when you start to accelerate, the Lexus switched through the gears until it hit 3rd.
In the G, once you are DBW/DS mode, you have to shift through the gears manually from 1st. The G works more like a manual transmission should.
I've forgotten this a few times and revved up over 4000 rpmin 1st gear before I remembered to shift through the gears. Is this hurting the transmission?
Another goof -- in my previous car (Lexus ES330) in DBW mode the gear you set is the "maximum", for example, if I am in 3rd gear and come to a full stop, when you start to accelerate, the Lexus switched through the gears until it hit 3rd.
In the G, once you are DBW/DS mode, you have to shift through the gears manually from 1st. The G works more like a manual transmission should.
I've forgotten this a few times and revved up over 4000 rpmin 1st gear before I remembered to shift through the gears. Is this hurting the transmission?
No problem, you are fine. The 4000 limit is artificially low. Just to keep guys like you from overdoing it.
In fact there is a large proportion who believe the entire babying "break-in" regime is nonsense. The dealer who sold me my Sport 6MT last week told me just to drive the car as I wanted. Some feel that babying the car at the outset will result in a less responsive engine that has "learned" your driving style. Apparently you can undo this learned behavior by driving in a more spirited fashion for an extended period.
Relax.
In fact there is a large proportion who believe the entire babying "break-in" regime is nonsense. The dealer who sold me my Sport 6MT last week told me just to drive the car as I wanted. Some feel that babying the car at the outset will result in a less responsive engine that has "learned" your driving style. Apparently you can undo this learned behavior by driving in a more spirited fashion for an extended period.
Relax.
Breaking in your G........
I've always broken in new cars by just driving them at a normal pace and not
overreving the engine. This doesn't mean you jump in and drive it to Vegas
when the temp is 125 degrees and go 95 mph all the way......dumb! I also
dump the factory oil prior to reaching 1K miles and switch to a full synthetic
oil like Mobil 1 or Red Line 5/30. I've NEVER had a problem doing this so don't
quote what some manual might say about starting synthetic oil too soon!
overreving the engine. This doesn't mean you jump in and drive it to Vegas
when the temp is 125 degrees and go 95 mph all the way......dumb! I also
dump the factory oil prior to reaching 1K miles and switch to a full synthetic
oil like Mobil 1 or Red Line 5/30. I've NEVER had a problem doing this so don't
quote what some manual might say about starting synthetic oil too soon!
Originally Posted by RCK
No problem, you are fine. The 4000 limit is artificially low. Just to keep guys like you from overdoing it.
In fact there is a large proportion who believe the entire babying "break-in" regime is nonsense. The dealer who sold me my Sport 6MT last week told me just to drive the car as I wanted. Some feel that babying the car at the outset will result in a less responsive engine that has "learned" your driving style. Apparently you can undo this learned behavior by driving in a more spirited fashion for an extended period.
Relax.
In fact there is a large proportion who believe the entire babying "break-in" regime is nonsense. The dealer who sold me my Sport 6MT last week told me just to drive the car as I wanted. Some feel that babying the car at the outset will result in a less responsive engine that has "learned" your driving style. Apparently you can undo this learned behavior by driving in a more spirited fashion for an extended period.
Relax.
When I noticed that I hit 1200 miles (just the other week), I exited the freeway, turned off the engine for a few minutes to let the oil drain into the pan, checked the dipstick (midway between full and a quart low) and then - HIT IT!!!
Man, what a screamer as I descended down the on-ramp back onto the freeway. I held it to redline in 3rd and when I tugged the magnesium paddle to go into 4th the car literally LEAPED forward, further confirming Infiniti's advertised "Acceleration Swell" tuning.
'07 G35 Sport? $34,000.
New FX35 chrome 20's and Nitto 555's? $2,200.
Hearing that big 3.5 liter motor singing at 7,500 rpm? PRICELESS!
Man, what a screamer as I descended down the on-ramp back onto the freeway. I held it to redline in 3rd and when I tugged the magnesium paddle to go into 4th the car literally LEAPED forward, further confirming Infiniti's advertised "Acceleration Swell" tuning.
'07 G35 Sport? $34,000.
New FX35 chrome 20's and Nitto 555's? $2,200.
Hearing that big 3.5 liter motor singing at 7,500 rpm? PRICELESS!


