I'd like to get at least 300 to the wheels too, that's at least 50 more. I'm not an expert, but it might be kinda tough without forced induction or NOS.

 

Video clip just added to end of post 115.

 

wow, really nice gains for just an exhaust. seems like that was a low reading dyno. I am used to dynojet numbers on our cars.

 

oh yea, if the group buy is started, put a link in this thread so I know whats going on. I do not frequent any areas outside of the 07+ G sedan section

 

Anyone know what the drive train loss is on the 5AT? If the motor is rated for 306 and i got 243 stock Hp at the wheels, that is 21% loss? Is this considered normal?

In this test, we compared baseline to after adding exhaust so it is not critical. But does it make a difference to do the pull with VDC on or off?

 

i always thought it was 15% for FWD and 17% for RWD.

Maybe automatic RWD makes it almost 20%. i still think its just a low reading dyno. The dyno is only good for checking on power that is gained. Only times I have dynoed on previous vehicles, was to tune the a/f and to check my nitrous gains.

If you want to see what kind of power is being put down. a 1/4 mile will tell you EXACTLY where you are at.

mine did whats in my sig.....so its running just fine. lol

and I LOVE THE BRAKES. how much did all 4 corners cost? and to eliminate a second question post....where from?

 

2nd gen sedans should be in the 258-270whp range on a DYNOJET. i dont know how much of the fact that u used an axle dyno affected but then again, dynos are just a tuning tool. if u really had 20 less whp than other 2nd gen sedans it would show. comparison of the stock and then exhuast is really all that matters

 

Information on the brakes can be found here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-brakes-suspension-wheels-tires/158931-next-project-stop-tech-bbk.html

 

I agree, it is the camparison that matters as long as the car was run the same way both times. I was just wondering in retrospect if the VDC on or off makes a difference though.

 

i have noticed, mainly by feel, if the car isnt warmed up to operating temp, the power/acceleration is marginally reduced.

I also have the vdc paranoia. If i am about to do some spirited romping, vdc is off just incase.

 

If VDC wasn't turned off I don't think the dyno would have even been possible. I'd bet the dyno operator turned it off.

With the front wheels stationary and the rear wheels spining, the car would have cut power immediately w/ the VDC left on.

The numbers are low (especially for a dynapack, which usually reads very high) but it is likely all in the calibration of the machine. Don't worry about the numbers in comparison to other, just use it as a tool to measure gains.

 

you'd recommend getting the break first, then the wheels to assure fit?

 

Thanks Terry!

 

Group buy... group buy.... group buy.....

 

what is the stock WHP and WTQ on are cars anyway? I'm seeing a lot of different readings.