Hey guys, i just ordered a custom fit subwoofer box for the sedan from ebay with 2 10" Alpine Type R Woofers, and one of those LOC(line out converter), now i have some questions and need your advice.
1) What kind of an amp and what gauge wires should i get?(looking for something average and small in size not too powerful)
2) For the wiring of the amp, where do you route the power from?(The existing amp in the trunk or from the battery?)
3) Do you connet the LOC to the woofer in the rear shelf?
4) Lastly, Any warrenty issues?

And if anyone has already done this on the 07 sedan i will love to see some pics of the amp install, thanks

Sorry for all these questions but just want to make sure i do it right and dont mess up the warrenty.

Thanks all in advance.

 

you should get an amp that matches the ohm levels of the subs. if your sub is 400 watts @ 2 ohm you would need an amp that is 800@2ohm or 1600@1ohm. your power gauge i would recommend 4 or 8 gauge and 16 or 12 gauge for speaker wires and 8 gauge for ground wire. you should definitely NOT reroute the power from the car's existing amplifier. it would be a cleaner look, but you'll lose sound quality. dunno about the LOC. i don't know much about warranties but it seems like their are warranties on different parts of your car. the dealer told me if i didn't get my tires rotated at the dealership that it would void my tires and wheels. so i dunno, maybe you can void your speakers? anyways, good luck and post pics please

 

thanks for the reply ugaexploder, i got the wires today for the amp(4Ga) and speakers (12Ga), now looking for an amplifier around those specifications, now once i get this(maybe another week) i'm ready.

Now all i need is for someone to tell me about routing the power cable, i know how to make all the ocnnections, i just want to know if there are any predrilled holes in the firewall from what you guys know and how to pass through the rear seat.

Thanks guys....

Once agian if anyone has already done this, pics plz...

 

honestly...you could pay a pro at your local stereo shop to do it for around $80. I would check around and find a reputable shop that usually works on high end stuff. (you get what you pay for). the benefit of having a pro do it is that they are used to pulling the panels of you car apart and are less likely to break something. and they will know where to hook up what wires.

They will get you bumpin faster & with alot less headache!!

 

thanks stanfna, and just like you said "you get what you pay for", and i dont have much money left after buying all this equipment to go to a GOOD shop.

So for me the whole point is to DIY, you learn alot and you can give it your 100% of time unlike most shops, it gives you the satisfaction of knwoing its quality work without cutting any corners.

i have already pulled most of the panels on this car doing some mods, so no problems there, and have done many sub/amp install on other cars, its just that i love this car so much that id rather seek help here first then regret later, and there are many experienced people on this forum who can help us achive this and with that we owe it to ourselves to DIY.

 

i agree with stanfna, i would invest the money to a store to do the install. that way, not only will the install will be cleaner, but he'll be accountable for the things you install. learning to do stuff like this is always fun, but i dont see the G as a practice car heh. and if you lay out the wire on the wrong side, you'll here whine from your tweeters. there are just too many tangibles to deal with.

here's a few things to remember. it's more difficult the mod the G if you have the bose system. and most likely you're going to have to invest in either a JL cleansweep or rockford 360 so that you get a clean signal going into your system. i would recommend the rockford 360 over the jl cleansweep because it's much more versatile. but not a lot of people know how to properly tune the rockford 360. and dont forget about the dynomat, because chances are you might have to dynomat areas in your trunk.

 

kool yaar, I am with u all the way about DIY. I recently was in the same situation as you about running the power cables, so I paid a respectable stereo shop just to run the power. I am no stranger to installing, but since this is my first new car, I was a lil weary in doing anything over the top. I built a full fiberglass sealed enclosure on the passenger side of the trunk with a single kicker comp vx sub. I used a kenwood mono amp to push the sub (about 980 watts @ 2ohms). I used raamat (raamaudio.com) to sound deaden the entire trunk and selected areas of the car. I used a line out converter by the name of RE-Q (www.reqsound.com) which is an outstanding piece of equipment, to tap into the factory bose system. hope this helps

 

Did you use the LOC just to get a signal for the sub, or did you replace the bose amp/speaker set up as well?

 

Thanks Bilaal POrter thats the confidence that i was looking for, and i might end up doing what you did, by paying a little to run the power cable and then do the rest myself.
i got some questions for you. Do u have the 07 sedan? if so, can you just tell me which wire(color) to tap into for the LOC(before or after bose amp?, what about tapping at the woofer on the rear deck?) and also for the Amp turn on wire.
THANKS a lot... and pics would be great

 

kool yaar, I have a '07 sedan. I tapped the wire after the factory amp, I owe 96% of success to attaining the technical service bullitin for our car(s). I cannot remember which forum member has the TSB, but it breaks all the wires down+ shows how to remove panels. I tapped the thicker black & white wires (goes to the front door subs). Those subs play louder than the rear sub, so it gives a stronger signal to tap IMO. About the remote wire, the RE-Q has its own remote out where it provides its own remote power, the factory amp has a small red wire as its amp turn on lead, u can use this(I did) pic are coming soon

 

shoeless, I still use the factory bose amp, just use the loc for the signal to my own amp. What makes this re-q different from most loc(s) is the fact that it overrides the factory bass limit. I know alot of folks get the JL audio 500/1 amp & W3 combination (which is common) I am not rich, so I worked within my means and budget to get the sound I like.

 

sub box and final layout of amp and enclosureDOMO

 

WOW, that is clean! looks really good, just one question i am also concerned about the bass limiter if i tap after the bose amp, so which LOC did you exactly use, that allows to disregard the bass limit. A link would be appreciated... and do u think there will be any warrenty issues with sub install? thanks AGAIN

 

Kool yaar, I only removed a tiny piece of insulation from each wire and soldered the connection(s). I could remove the wires and wrap with electrical tape in about 10 minutes, back to stock, I do not believe in cutting factory wires. It's only a 3 wire hook up to aftermarket bliss with the loc (www.reqsound.com). here is a link to a review on this loc. (http://pasmag.com/audiolabs/testreports2.asp?ID=434) I got the three channel version (they now have a five ch version now) retail shows it for $149 but you know I searched the net (google)and got it for $75 dollars new. I want u to know that I am not affiliated or work for the makers of this loc, I'm just passing on info that worked for me and hopefully for someone else.DOMO

 

here is how i just installed my amp...(scroll down to pics.)

https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-general-tech-questions/196089-4080-amp-install.html