Safest place to jack up front for oil changes?
#16
Originally Posted by Wei
yeah, my last car was 2 inch from the ground, no ramps would work, have to drive up staggered wood blocks/pieces just to drive on to make room for the floor jack
i don't think it should be too confusing to see which part of the frame can be used as a jack point, now i have to go and look, lol
i don't think it should be too confusing to see which part of the frame can be used as a jack point, now i have to go and look, lol
#17
Center Jack Point Found!!!
I finally figured it out! There is a center jack point on the G35. It's part of the crossmember or suspension. Just look between the two front wheels, there's a thick plate and at the bottom of it a protuding round *** or notch for the jack! I estimate the distance of the *** to tip of front bumper is 35 inches, this will help when deciding which jack to buy.
I tried ramps before but they are too scary....
Not going to take my car to dealer or shops anymore
_________
2008 G35 journey5at ivory/stone+prem&sportpkg(k&n airfilters)
I tried ramps before but they are too scary....
Not going to take my car to dealer or shops anymore
_________
2008 G35 journey5at ivory/stone+prem&sportpkg(k&n airfilters)
#18
I just bought a floor jack, the low profile type for lower cars, man it dont work. The jack point is too deep which dont allow much movement of the pivot action..
****, I'm going to tryp rhino ramps or jack up the driver's side which someone mentioned earlier.
I think I will get a floor jack kit, saw a Torio big red jack kit for $35 at pepboys, a basic 2 ton jack, 2 floor jacks, and a creeper. Plan to jack one side up, put a jack stand, lower it and do the same for other side, not going to use center jack point... probably the underbrace which i guess is the round plate with dounut hole thingey part of the suspension... will get back hopefully I dont die-
****, I'm going to tryp rhino ramps or jack up the driver's side which someone mentioned earlier.
I think I will get a floor jack kit, saw a Torio big red jack kit for $35 at pepboys, a basic 2 ton jack, 2 floor jacks, and a creeper. Plan to jack one side up, put a jack stand, lower it and do the same for other side, not going to use center jack point... probably the underbrace which i guess is the round plate with dounut hole thingey part of the suspension... will get back hopefully I dont die-
Last edited by oughttoreturn; 05-23-2008 at 12:07 AM.
#19
Originally Posted by oughttoreturn
I just bought a floor jack, the low profile type for lower cars, man it dont work. The jack point is too deep which dont allow much movement of the pivot action..
****, I'm going to tryp rhino ramps or jack up the driver's side which someone mentioned earlier.
I think I will get a floor jack kit, saw a Torio big red jack kit for $35 at pepboys, a basic 2 ton jack, 2 floor jacks, and a creeper. Plan to jack one side up, put a jack stand, lower it and do the same for other side, not going to use center jack point... probably the underbrace which i guess is the round plate with dounut hole thingey part of the suspension... will get back hopefully I dont die-
****, I'm going to tryp rhino ramps or jack up the driver's side which someone mentioned earlier.
I think I will get a floor jack kit, saw a Torio big red jack kit for $35 at pepboys, a basic 2 ton jack, 2 floor jacks, and a creeper. Plan to jack one side up, put a jack stand, lower it and do the same for other side, not going to use center jack point... probably the underbrace which i guess is the round plate with dounut hole thingey part of the suspension... will get back hopefully I dont die-
#20
Originally Posted by geronimomoe
I build wooden ramps, bolted 2x12's together, for a 6" rise and also bolted 2x10's together, for a 6" rise.
Does well with our 06 Odyssey, all our previous cars, and my parent's cars.
I'm just a bit leery of Rhino ramps. They're plastic and if they fail, I don't think there will be any warning.
Does well with our 06 Odyssey, all our previous cars, and my parent's cars.
I'm just a bit leery of Rhino ramps. They're plastic and if they fail, I don't think there will be any warning.
#22
Just used my $8 ramps, worked great and are heavy enough that they don't move once in place. Just used (1) 4x8 sheet of 1/2" OSB cut in 8" wide strips (Minus the width of the saw blade, so about 7&7/8" wide).
Just cut the sheet in 12 equal 8"x48" strips then start your cuts at 12"/36",14/34,16/32,18/30,20/28,22/26~Do 2 of each size and you'll use all your 4x8 sheet and have enough pieces for two ramps. I used extra scrap for the pieces used for the wheel stops, you could also use a piece of angle iron or a trimmed down 2x4. The advantage to using this type ramp is the OSB is formed under massive hydraulic presses so the weight of a car or even large truck doesn't have any compression effect on the wood, so it's very stout
Just cut the sheet in 12 equal 8"x48" strips then start your cuts at 12"/36",14/34,16/32,18/30,20/28,22/26~Do 2 of each size and you'll use all your 4x8 sheet and have enough pieces for two ramps. I used extra scrap for the pieces used for the wheel stops, you could also use a piece of angle iron or a trimmed down 2x4. The advantage to using this type ramp is the OSB is formed under massive hydraulic presses so the weight of a car or even large truck doesn't have any compression effect on the wood, so it's very stout
#23
I'm in the middle of swapping in some summer shoes and bought a floor jack to help. I have one back wheel done but I ended up "crimping" the lip a bit where the notch for the factory jack is supposed to go. Do you think the sub-frame located at the front half of the car is strong enough to do my front wheels? I'm not really sure where else to put the floor jack without further damaging the lip.
Edit - There's also a very solid looking metal bracket attached to each side of the sub-floor. Could this a spot for a floor jack?
Edit - There's also a very solid looking metal bracket attached to each side of the sub-floor. Could this a spot for a floor jack?
Last edited by 07BlueOnyx; 06-05-2008 at 07:21 PM.
#25
Originally Posted by terrycs
I still haven't tried the ramps yet myself because I've been getting free changes at my dealer. Does it require two people? One to drive and the other to spot?
Never hurts to put a jack stand under for safety. I used to slide a cinder block under my car/truck b4 I had jack stands. I figured I was squishy enough that the block would keep me mostly safe.
#26
#27
#28
You can jack the front of the car up by using two floor jacks, each under the rocker panel jacking point for the oEM tiire change jack. There are two notches in the welded rocker panel seam where those jack points are. I always use a hockey puck as cushion and belive it or not the puck WILL NOT BE CUT by the sharp edge of the rocker panel seam. It actually conforms to the seam and provides safe support. Always secure the car with appropriate jack stands after lifting it!!!
#29
cinder block very bad idea. many have been killed not realizing how easy it is for a vehicle to crush a cinder or cement block.
wood also somewhat dangerous. plywood or osb probably better then a big chunk of pine or oak as the big chunks can split on you and send the car down.
best to use a purpose built jack and set of stands or ramps that are rated for the load you will be lifting. you can get a set of jack stands for 25 bucks. not worth risking your life, if you ask me!
amp
wood also somewhat dangerous. plywood or osb probably better then a big chunk of pine or oak as the big chunks can split on you and send the car down.
best to use a purpose built jack and set of stands or ramps that are rated for the load you will be lifting. you can get a set of jack stands for 25 bucks. not worth risking your life, if you ask me!
amp
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