Does any one have any idea what this hose is and perhaps have a part number? I don't even know what it is, but it is leaking coolant. It seems to originate in from inside the firewall on the passenger side to the engine and it is two hoses connected by a union. The union is what's separated completely, spraying coolant all over my engine.

Otherwise, does any one how how I can safely get this home so that I can figure things out? Does duct tape really work?

Thanks in advance!

 

Coolant bleed port, very common piece to fail, replace it with the Z1 Motorsports one is my suggestion.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/cooling/z1-motorsports/z1-coolant-bleeder-port-heater-hose-p-11190.html

 

Thank you and thanks for the link. That looks to be it!

 

No duct tape won't work here lol. You'll probably have to bite the bullet and get it towed unless you can find a plastic connector at an auto parts store that will fit the inner diameter of the hoses that the bleed port connects.

 

I'd just replace that whole section with a new hose. I got rid of that piece after it broke and I got sprayed with coolant. I've bled my coolant numerous since without having that sh1tty piece of plastic.

 

I just had the same hose fail, I was sitting at McDonald's drive thru at 3 am and window started to fog up and smelled like coolant. Luckily I was only 2 miles from home and drove home very slowly, temp gauge moved to high range and got a slight rattle from engine going up a hill (water pump noise)? I'm going to get it towed to independent shop, it's my second breakdown in a month (just replaced starter recently) but otherwise almost no problems in 10 years 89K miles. (2008 sedan)

I don't see this part listed in cooling system of parts website (https://www.infinitipartsusa.com/200...stem-s/682.htm) and it's not clear on the FSM. Is the fix to replace the entire hose or just the connector?

Is this a relatively easy repair? Independent shop I use has two locations and I trust one location more than the other for complicated stuff (but farther away).

Is it safe to refill the radiator and start the engine again to confirm this is the only leak? (engine is cold now)

I have only replaced upper radiator hose to date, I will ask to go ahead and replace lower radiator hose. Are there any other hoses I should replace at the same time? I want to prevent any future cooling-related breakdowns if possible. (I wish water pump was easy but looks complicated, probably not necessary at 89K).

 

Super simple replacement... Think 5 minutes plus another hour or so for a coolant flush. I would say do it yourself except the coolant flush is a PITA if you've never done it before.
You don't have to replace the hose, just take it off using pliers for the metal clips, remove the broken valve, put new one on, and reinstall making sure clips are on.

I'd be more concerned about the rattling noise you started getting from your engine after you drove it while it was spitting coolant. I mean, it COULD be the water pump sucking in bubbles but I've never heard of that and ive driven my car with a ton of air in the system before. I have heard of lots of blown engines making bad noises from driving engines without any coolant however.

 

Thanks, I forgot my insurance has towing coverage so I went ahead and got it towed to the independent shop. I tried to put a piece of masking tape to show where the leak is but when I touched the hose it split in two, so looks like the plastic connector rotted out. Such a frustrating breakdown for a cheap part, hope the replacement part is better. It was time for a coolant and oil change anyways.

The tow truck guy said it was safe to start the engine for a few minutes (to drive car onto the flatbed) and it started up fine and no noise. I tried refilling the radiator to be safe but it just leaked out again, hopefully there's not another leak somewhere else.

This needs to be added a list of stuff you should replace before it breaks. (Is there a list on here?)

 

Your purge bleeder broke previously and someone replaced it with a plastic barbed coupling, there is supposed to be a cap between your two hose clamps that can be removed to purge air while filling but as you can see it's missing.

I personally like the replacement made by Z1 Motorsports because it's metal, it's SUPER easy to replace the coupling, all you need is a pair of pliars to squeeze the prongs on the clamps so you can slide them down the hose off the coupling.

The hardest part is burping the air bubbles back out of the system but if you add coolant very slowly (1 gallon per minute) instead of just dumping it in then it's usually not a problem.

 

That's weird since only time I had coolant changed was at 56K miles at the dealer, surprised they would change out something like that.

 

This picture from the FSM is pretty much exactly what it should look like. I'd go take a picture of mine but I'm being lazy on the couch. The "air relief plug" is the bleeder valve, you don't have that piece

 

There really isn't a list of things to replace before they break on this car, it doesn't have any endemic issues like BMW's cooling system or anything like that. Although at the age of these cars, pretty much all the sensors and hoses are starting to get into "should be replaced" category if they're original.

EDIT:
Other than all of the rubber suspension bushings if you drive the car hard, and the rear differential bushing even if you don't.

 

Go with the Z1 coolant bleeder for longevity or OEM from a part out if you are cheap.

 

Car is back now, $100 with new "heater hose connector" and coolant change. There are two heater hose connectors, one with a bleeder valve and one without. The one that failed on mine is on the passenger side and doesn't have a bleeder valve (near battery). The one with the bleeder valve is on the driver's side. I asked the shop to replace anything else that might break but they're kind stubborn and only replace what needs replacing. Like I asked to have lower radiator hose replaced and they said they usually last for 250K miles.

So I'll have the other heater hose connector replaced the next time I have a coolant change (if it doesn't fail before then).

Also, the guy at the shop (who's pretty smart) recommended against buying Infiniti/Nissan going forward since they're getting very cheap with the parts, like getting wiring harnesses from China. He expects a lot of complicated repairs on the newer models as they age.

 

Time will tell, they still source the capacitors locally in japan and that's the most important component.

I still think your bleed valve is on the wrong side though.

EDIT: Wait are you a RHD?