Front Wheel Bearing
#16
I'm a bit of a n00b guys, so I'm hoping someone can confirm what I think I understand.
For rwd sedans, you can either get the bearing itself and have it pressed in (more labour) or buy the hub and bearing together as one piece for an easier install. for awd sedans, you have no choice but to buy separately.
I'd like to order two hubs (+ bearings) but cant seem to figure out which is the correct part, without exception!, from the various auto stores.
For example, from Timken, is it: TIMKEN Part # HA590027 or BM500013?
Can anyone confirm?
For rwd sedans, you can either get the bearing itself and have it pressed in (more labour) or buy the hub and bearing together as one piece for an easier install. for awd sedans, you have no choice but to buy separately.
I'd like to order two hubs (+ bearings) but cant seem to figure out which is the correct part, without exception!, from the various auto stores.
For example, from Timken, is it: TIMKEN Part # HA590027 or BM500013?
Can anyone confirm?
#17
Timken
I'm a bit of a n00b guys, so I'm hoping someone can confirm what I think I understand.
For rwd sedans, you can either get the bearing itself and have it pressed in (more labour) or buy the hub and bearing together as one piece for an easier install. for awd sedans, you have no choice but to buy separately.
I'd like to order two hubs (+ bearings) but cant seem to figure out which is the correct part, without exception!, from the various auto stores.
For example, from Timken, is it: TIMKEN Part # HA590027 or BM500013?
Can anyone confirm?
For rwd sedans, you can either get the bearing itself and have it pressed in (more labour) or buy the hub and bearing together as one piece for an easier install. for awd sedans, you have no choice but to buy separately.
I'd like to order two hubs (+ bearings) but cant seem to figure out which is the correct part, without exception!, from the various auto stores.
For example, from Timken, is it: TIMKEN Part # HA590027 or BM500013?
Can anyone confirm?
BM500013: Bearing only -> front, sedan AWD G35x
Evo3
#18
#19
#20
#21
#22
#23
They are tough to find. I got two from rockauto.com for $85 each a few weeks back, but now they are out of stock.
Summit might have them. Although it's a long lead time.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TMK-BM500013/
Summit might have them. Although it's a long lead time.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TMK-BM500013/
#25
www.rockauto.com has been the cheapest I've found so far...
Search all over the site without success.
EVO3
#26
Rockauto no longer has that bearing...received an email saying
"Thank you for the response. We do not have Timken part # 500013 listed in our catalog. Our online catalog will show every part we have for your vehicle, so if you look up your car in our catalog, and don't see the part there, it means we unfortunately don't carry it."
Autopartswarehouse has them but I was told they "do not ship that part to Canada" ...WTF?
Summit also carries them but 2 things
1) 2 week process due to it being a "special order"
2) price is $132.95...damn
but they do say they will beat any lower price price so gona call and find out
"Thank you for the response. We do not have Timken part # 500013 listed in our catalog. Our online catalog will show every part we have for your vehicle, so if you look up your car in our catalog, and don't see the part there, it means we unfortunately don't carry it."
Autopartswarehouse has them but I was told they "do not ship that part to Canada" ...WTF?
Summit also carries them but 2 things
1) 2 week process due to it being a "special order"
2) price is $132.95...damn
but they do say they will beat any lower price price so gona call and find out
#27
#28
How to do it
The earlier 350Z post is correct on how to replace the front wheel bearing hubs.
The only difference for AWD is the drive shaft spline & nut thru center of the hub.
You'll NEED 1/2" breaker bar & sockets: to remove caliper bracket and the four 17mm wheel hub bolts. The bottom one is tight to the lower ball joint but you'll need a combo wrench loosen. DO THIS ONE FIRST, IF YOU CAN'T GET IT OUT the abandon the job. This bolt won't come all the way out, but if you have it turning you can go after the other three.
Once all bolts are free/out, you'll need a BFH (big fudging hammer) to smack it free of the "Steering Knuckle" that it bolts to.
The dust plate will be rusty, Good time to clean & paint it.
There's a up & down to the hub, so start all bolts B4 U tighten the 1st. Don't put dust shield on backwards (I did).
Torque the four 17mm bolts to spec (shown in earlier post attachment). You WILL need 1/2-inch torque wrench (or 1/2-inch breaker bar with accurate torque 'feel'). You'll never get the torque with 3/8-inch tools (unless you're a cave man).
I got my front wheel hubs for $103 each. Prices vary all over the place.. high as $270 ea. Looking at the hubs I don't see how bearings-only can be replaced.
Maybe someone can give us a DYI for bearing only.
Right hub real bad at 118k miles...leaf ok, but wtf, I replaced it too.
The only difference for AWD is the drive shaft spline & nut thru center of the hub.
You'll NEED 1/2" breaker bar & sockets: to remove caliper bracket and the four 17mm wheel hub bolts. The bottom one is tight to the lower ball joint but you'll need a combo wrench loosen. DO THIS ONE FIRST, IF YOU CAN'T GET IT OUT the abandon the job. This bolt won't come all the way out, but if you have it turning you can go after the other three.
Once all bolts are free/out, you'll need a BFH (big fudging hammer) to smack it free of the "Steering Knuckle" that it bolts to.
The dust plate will be rusty, Good time to clean & paint it.
There's a up & down to the hub, so start all bolts B4 U tighten the 1st. Don't put dust shield on backwards (I did).
Torque the four 17mm bolts to spec (shown in earlier post attachment). You WILL need 1/2-inch torque wrench (or 1/2-inch breaker bar with accurate torque 'feel'). You'll never get the torque with 3/8-inch tools (unless you're a cave man).
I got my front wheel hubs for $103 each. Prices vary all over the place.. high as $270 ea. Looking at the hubs I don't see how bearings-only can be replaced.
Maybe someone can give us a DYI for bearing only.
Right hub real bad at 118k miles...leaf ok, but wtf, I replaced it too.
#29
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-...-bearings.html
bearing only is a PITA. I still have both my old front wheel bearing/hubs in my trunk as i search for a good tool to help pull the hubs from the trashed bearing. Since i was pressed for time, I bought hubs and did it as an assembly.
When I figure out a good, easy, reliable method of pulling the hubs, i plan on editing the DIY so others can have the option
bearing only is a PITA. I still have both my old front wheel bearing/hubs in my trunk as i search for a good tool to help pull the hubs from the trashed bearing. Since i was pressed for time, I bought hubs and did it as an assembly.
When I figure out a good, easy, reliable method of pulling the hubs, i plan on editing the DIY so others can have the option
#30
I have a noise coming from my front also. Has been going on since I bought the car but it is getting louder and the steering wheel is starting to shake at higher speeds now. I also get a little vibration through the seat. My one friend went for a ride with me the other day and said it was my wheel bearings. He said it sounds the same as his civic did when they went out.
I have been looking around for the bearings and the OEM are expensive. After reading thread I started looking at prices for the Timkin bearings. I have found them on Ebay for $232 shipped for both fronts.
I have been looking around for the bearings and the OEM are expensive. After reading thread I started looking at prices for the Timkin bearings. I have found them on Ebay for $232 shipped for both fronts.
Last edited by crazy8ship; 10-10-2011 at 12:27 PM. Reason: price