Before:
Front Camber/Caster/Toe
Driver= -1.7/8.1/-0.30
Pass= -1.2/12.3/-0.30

Rear Camber/Toe
D= -1.9/-0.44
P= -1.8/-0.11

After:
Front Camber/Caster/Toe
D= -1.7/8.1/0.04
P= -1.2/12.3/0.05

Rear Camber/Toe
D= -2.0/0.10
P= -1.9/0.12

Thrust Angle before = -0.17, After = -0.01

O.K. - I have the Z/H techs for about 300 miles. Alignment was done at the dealership. My new tech rep states he has 15 years experience in the "bay", so I guess he knows what he is talking about, but after looking at the before/after specs...I'm a little confused.

I want to ask them some questions, but I want feedback from this board first:

1) What is caster and what would cause the huge difference in my fronts (I'm assuming this is bad). Is this adjustable.

2) From what I can tell, the toes are great, but I'm not comfortable w/the Driver F&Rear cambers.

3) The tech told me I was not within spec, but "should" not experience any abnormal tire wear. He also said to moniter the tires "just in case". This seems to tell me, he might not know what he is talking about??

I made sure to fill up the tank before getting the alignment. I don't know if they performed the alignment w/a person in the driver seat...probably not.

I'm debating whether or not to take it to a another (specialized) shop or not worry about it.

Thanks for any advise....

 

?help?

 

Without wanting to sound too critical of your tech's year's of experience, without question, take the car to another shop, one specializing in alignments. Nissan's TSB for the 350Z might give you some helpfull tips on what to look for in a shop.

"You must use a alignment machine that will give you accurate results when performing a alignment check"

"A alignment machine such as a Hunter 611 series listed in the Nissan Tech-Mate catalog should be used"

" Alignment equippment should be regularly calibrated in order to give correct information"

Something is definately wrong with the caster reading on the one side, it cannot be changed with any form of oem or aftermarket correction. Has your car every been in a accident. I can't envision something wrong with the reinstall on that side being the cause of the high caster, just to say it.

I recommend when you go to another shop ask them to set the car up as follow's.

FRONT:
1mm toe in (.5mm toe in per side

REAR:
1mm toe in (I'm running .8MM IIRC)

Set the rear camber as low as they can while keeping the number EVEN side to side and NOT going below the toe in specs set above and keeping then EVEN as well side to side.

 

Nope, the car's never been in an accident. I bought it new w/6 miles off the showroom.

I'm going to stop by the dealership again to "chat" with them about the odd front/right caster.

If the caster is unadjustable, and assuming the numbers are correct, what kind of problems will this cause? and how can I possible correct it?

 

I think your toe-in is in degrees. If so, then you're toe-in is good.

The alignment rack may have been out of calibration, but your
passenger side front does look a little weird...
The measurements should be close to your driver side with
about -1.7 camber, 8.1 caster.

Your rear looks fine (it should be even on both sides, but probably ok),
and thrust angle is good.



After:
Front Camber/Caster/Toe
D= -1.7/8.1/0.04
P= -1.2/12.3/0.05

Rear Camber/Toe
D= -2.0/0.10
P= -1.9/0.12