Originally Posted by usual_suspect

Mikeee2,

The wrench you bought looks fine for the purpose. I think your confusion comes from treating it like a ratchet handle. If you need to take a second turn on the wrench, you have to take the socket off the lug and reposition like a regular swing handle. The wrench is designed to measure torque both ways so that it an be used for left hand threads (rare). My wrench is always set for clockwise since I never use it to take the lugs off (use a cross wrench).

If you are a mechanic working on motors, suspension, etc. you need to calibrate your wrench, but for wheel lugs it's not really necessary. The critical issue with wheel lugs is that the wheel is centered, and that the lugs are evenly tightened in a star pattern. If you do this and they are all 1 or 2 ft/lb over or under you're still good. You get possible warping of wheels and rotors when people drive them up to 100+ ft/lb with an impact driver or tighen by hand and get some at 90 ft/lb and others at 70.

My routine for tightening (for what it's worth) is like this:

Start each lug by hand for at least 6 turns (take the socket and extension off the wrench and use it like a screwdriver if the lug hole is too deep to get your fingers in).

While pressing the wheel to the hub with one hand, spin the lugs on (always star pattern, I won't keep repeating) with a cross wrench just until they're snug. This lets the wheel center itself on the hub before you tighten anything.

Set the torque wrench for 40 ft/lb and tighten all lugs just until it clicks. Set the wrench again for 80 ft/lb and repeat. Test drive the car to make sure you have no vibrations or other issues.

Go once around the lugs with the torque wrench after about 50 miles till you get an 80 ft/lb click. Do it again after the first 500 miles. You can lose a little torque on the lugs as the wheel settles in with use.

I probably sound a little ****, it really isn't difficult. Good luck.

Craig