DIY Brake Pad and Rotor change
#1
DIY Brake Pad and Rotor change
Has anyone done a front Brake Pad and Rotor change on a 2005 G35 coupe....themselves?
I hear it is fairly easy to do and would like to avoid the $675 quote the dealer gave for parts and labor.
I have the Factory Service Manual so I am planning to proceed by just using that....but sometimes videos (such as the Youtube video of changing the engine air filter or cabin filter) or other helpful suggestions from those who have done it before can make the job even easier.
Thanks in advance.
I hear it is fairly easy to do and would like to avoid the $675 quote the dealer gave for parts and labor.
I have the Factory Service Manual so I am planning to proceed by just using that....but sometimes videos (such as the Youtube video of changing the engine air filter or cabin filter) or other helpful suggestions from those who have done it before can make the job even easier.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Originally Posted by EricFeazel
Has anyone done a front Brake Pad and Rotor change on a 2005 G35 coupe....themselves?
I hear it is fairly easy to do and would like to avoid the $675 quote the dealer gave for parts and labor.
I have the Factory Service Manual so I am planning to proceed by just using that....but sometimes videos (such as the Youtube video of changing the engine air filter or cabin filter) or other helpful suggestions from those who have done it before can make the job even easier.
Thanks in advance.
I hear it is fairly easy to do and would like to avoid the $675 quote the dealer gave for parts and labor.
I have the Factory Service Manual so I am planning to proceed by just using that....but sometimes videos (such as the Youtube video of changing the engine air filter or cabin filter) or other helpful suggestions from those who have done it before can make the job even easier.
Thanks in advance.
#3
I've done the break pads and it was trivial. It was my first DIY and I followed one of the many guides online. I think it took me about 2 hours to do all 4 wheels.
Not sure how much harder it is to change the rotors too, but I think you should definitly try it yourself before handing that much money over to the dealer. Parts should run you about $200 for the front if you go aftermarket.
Why only the front though? It's always a good idea to change the rears at the same time as the fronts.
Not sure how much harder it is to change the rotors too, but I think you should definitly try it yourself before handing that much money over to the dealer. Parts should run you about $200 for the front if you go aftermarket.
Why only the front though? It's always a good idea to change the rears at the same time as the fronts.
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I just bought front and rear rotors and pads from a classified vendor here on the forums. And yes, like mentioned above it was under 600$. The rotors are drilled and slotted too...
I bought rears too mostly because of the looks... It would have looked weird with drilled rotors in the front and OEMs in the back...
I bought rears too mostly because of the looks... It would have looked weird with drilled rotors in the front and OEMs in the back...
#9
The following 2 users liked this post by mandipcarz:
alKoh (02-10-2016),
Bill Campos (03-22-2017)
#10
I'd like to add a couple important notes:
Type of rotor doesn't really matter, cheap blank rotors work fine. The only difference is ones without paint/rust protection on the center portion where it meets hub will rust and look ugly. Centric blanks are good choice. Don't replace rotors because brakes vibrate, first try to slam brakes hard to clear off brake pad residue.
Use C-Clamp and an old brake pad to compress piston back into caliper. You are supposed to have a clear tube attached to brake bleeder bolt and feeding into an empty plastic bottle, loosen bolt, and when you compress piston you squirt old fluid out.
Always remove pins, clean, and grease before reinstall. Grease is $1 at counter of auto parts store.
Cheap pads feel cheap and performance pads make more dust.
Change brake fluid every 2 years, it absorbs water. Any Dot 3 or 4 fluid is fine, you don't need high temp fluid unless you are bringing car to race tracks.
If rear rotor is stuck, make sure your parking brake is off. And always make sure a wheel on the ground is chocked to keep car from moving.
If bottom bolt/caliper pin of rear caliper is stuck, you can still slide the caliper off with it stuck, then remove bolt with a vice in your garage.
Torque lug nuts when done (~80 ft lbs).
Type of rotor doesn't really matter, cheap blank rotors work fine. The only difference is ones without paint/rust protection on the center portion where it meets hub will rust and look ugly. Centric blanks are good choice. Don't replace rotors because brakes vibrate, first try to slam brakes hard to clear off brake pad residue.
Use C-Clamp and an old brake pad to compress piston back into caliper. You are supposed to have a clear tube attached to brake bleeder bolt and feeding into an empty plastic bottle, loosen bolt, and when you compress piston you squirt old fluid out.
Always remove pins, clean, and grease before reinstall. Grease is $1 at counter of auto parts store.
Cheap pads feel cheap and performance pads make more dust.
Change brake fluid every 2 years, it absorbs water. Any Dot 3 or 4 fluid is fine, you don't need high temp fluid unless you are bringing car to race tracks.
If rear rotor is stuck, make sure your parking brake is off. And always make sure a wheel on the ground is chocked to keep car from moving.
If bottom bolt/caliper pin of rear caliper is stuck, you can still slide the caliper off with it stuck, then remove bolt with a vice in your garage.
Torque lug nuts when done (~80 ft lbs).
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