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Old 02-01-2015, 05:18 PM
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wheel bearing

hello

i need to change my rear driver side wheel bearing. the tire was shaking a lot when i had the car on a lift. i found wheel bearings from duralast for like 65$ from autozone and similar stores.

is using duralast instead of OEM for duralast ok ? how hard is it to change the wheel bearing ?
 
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Old 02-01-2015, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by helalo
hello

i need to change my rear driver side wheel bearing. the tire was shaking a lot when i had the car on a lift. i found wheel bearings from duralast for like 65$ from autozone and similar stores.

is using duralast instead of OEM for duralast ok ? how hard is it to change the wheel bearing ?
Easy, just a few suspension parts and four bolts. Should be a guide on here. Try searching.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:11 AM
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Change them BOTH while you have the chance.
 
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:56 AM
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You will have an awful time if you expect this job to be easy op, without a slide hammer you will not be able to do this job.

You'll also need to have the bearing pressed in/out of your existing hub or buy a pre-assembled unit.

Doing both at once is a must for the DIY'er like Tex said.

I have had better experiences going with anything but OEM Timken bearings believe it or not.
 
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Old 02-03-2015, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by yosip1115
I have had better experiences going with anything but OEM Timken bearings believe it or not.
I've had to change out 3 OEM bearings. Can't quite say i'd recommend the OEM bearings here as they don't seem to last.

However, with that said, the OEM Timkin bearing (which is actuall a repacked OEM NTN bearing from Japan) is $46 plus shipping from rockauto.com. Doesn't include the hub, but i'm not a fan of duralast so I'd prob select the OEM timkin vs duralast.


NTN is the OEM bearning manufacturer. The timkin bearings are the OEM's distributed by timkin. If you went to infiniti and bought a bearing...same thing.
 
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by yosip1115
You will have an awful time if you expect this job to be easy op, without a slide hammer you will not be able to do this job.

You'll also need to have the bearing pressed in/out of your existing hub or buy a pre-assembled unit.

Doing both at once is a must for the DIY'er like Tex said.

I have had better experiences going with anything but OEM Timken bearings believe it or not.
I disagree, first buy the pre assembled hubs. No reason not to, the price difference is negligible. I just did mine recently no slide hammer required. If the axle is seized in the hub a little penetrating oil should do the trick. This isn't a difficult job.
 
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Old 02-17-2015, 07:09 PM
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I recently did this exact job too my 2004 G35 Sedan. I ordered a hub and bearing pre assembled from amazon.(non oem) This
Youtube video along with some common sense explained everything. Wd-40 is your friend for getting everything apart as most likely this will be the most time consuming and difficult part of the job. I didn't even torque things back to spec and my G rides better than ever. No more whooshing.

All in all its 5 lug nuts, 2 brake bolts, 4 bearing bolts, and your ABS sensor bolt(ABS optional I recommend) you have to remove. Everything after the lug nuts on your wheel, will most likely be a complete bitch. I even had to hammer my rotor off > 15 minutes. Don't give up mate, with jackstands and a few socket attachments this is a good diy job.
 
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Old 05-22-2015, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by danoman32
I disagree, first buy the pre assembled hubs. No reason not to, the price difference is negligible. I just did mine recently no slide hammer required. If the axle is seized in the hub a little penetrating oil should do the trick. This isn't a difficult job.
The slide hammer is to get the bearing-hub assembly out of the spindle because they sieze in there in the rear, not to seperate the bearing and hub. Hopefully he got it done by now.
 
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