I hope that someone can help me to figure out this problem. I will explain everything in detail so a conclusion can be drawn. I have an 03 G35 AT Sedan w/ Bose. I bought a Viper 1200.1 amp, a diamond audio d6 12" dual 2 ohm sub, a kicker 4 gauge wiring kit, and a PAC Oem2 Line output converter. I thought everything would be great. I also used b-quiet sound deadener, so far in the trunk and rear deck. I have always installed my own stereo systems in various cars I have had and have never had problems. I researched many forums and read reccomendations on where to run wires and how to make the install easier.

I began by running the power wire as reccomended. Down the grommet on passenger side and through the kick panel area, along the floor, and into the trunk. I grounded the amp using one of the rear armrest bolts. Then I hooked up my Line output converter. I followed the instructions to the tee.. soldered the right and left rear speaker wires into the right and left rear wires of the bose HU output (before amp). Also, my LOC requires switched vehicle power and ground and also has an optional input for remote turn on wire that basically goes straight through the LOC to the amp. I found the amp on signal wire for my car (green w/ white stripe) and I had read that people have used this wire as remote turn on for their amp as well as a switched power source. I tested it at 12 volts. I connected my remote wire leading to my viper amp along with the switched power wire going to the LOC to that green and white "Amp on" wire. Then I soldered the ground wire from the LOC into the ground for the bose amp. I also unplugged the bose subwoofer as was reccomended by someone in the forums. I hooked up the amp and the sub and finally took the grand test drive.

Everything sounded great. Then, as I drove a few minutes more, I noticed when i would stop and go, The car would jerk into 2nd and third gear (automatic trans.). This worried me, because out of all of the installs I had read about, I never came across this problem. Then I noticed that when I turned my bass **** almost all the way down, it would stop jerking into 2nd and 3rd. Ok, so I figured the cars electrical system couldnt handle the power that the was drawing. That just didnt seem right though, Ican barely have the bass turned up and the car will do this. There are even times when driving at steady rate, I can feel the car slow everytime a kick drum hits in a song. My Honda accord v6 could power an amp that had just as much output along with two subs just fine, dont tell me the infiniti cant even power one 12 with a 1200 watt mono amp not even truned up 1/8 of its max capability. I thought maybe the battery was going bad and not able to hold charge so I tested it and it is fine. So, thats the first issue, now there is another.
I noticed this last night when I was driving. I was listening to brand new cd that I knew was not scrathed at all and I hear a static noise in door speakers becoming more and more obvious as the song plays. I changed the song, still there, but not inbetween the song changing, so i know it is the HU and not the door speakers causing the problem. I even changed the cd and the static/scartchy sound was still there in music background. So, I went home and parked the car for the night and in the morning left for work thinking it would still sound like crap. But, it was back to normal. as I drove to work, the static slowly appered again (after about five minutes), so I shut the HU off. I was wondering if I had the LOC outputs turned up too high and that might be causing a problem for some odd reason, so I turned the outputs down to about a qquarter of max level... problem still there. Then I thought maybe the headunit is overheating for some reason and causing the static. Is that a possibility. If so, why the overheating?
Now, last issue. I noticed that a couple of times, when I start the car, the amp will power on but there will be no sound from sub. I shut the car off and trun it on again and still no sub. So I am driving for a couple minutes and , suddenly the sub turns on and stays on until I shut the car off again. I figured if the amp was overheating, it would shut off during play back instead of not powering sub when initiated. Am I wrong? I have checked all connections and know that not to be an issue. Is it overheating or, something related to my other problems? I should also mention that the amp is 1 ohm stable and the dual 2 ohm sub is wired at 1 ohm. If the amp is overheating and a cooling fan will not fix the prob, I will wire the sub to 4 ohms and sacrifice some power to run it. Well, I know that was long, but that is it.

Here are some posible causes for my problems that I can think of (correct me if wrong):

*I unplugged the bose sub from connecter at oem sub. I taped the connector to protect against short.
*I tapped into Bose amp ground wire with Line output converter ground input
*I connected the remote wire for viper amp along with switched power input for LOC to bose remote wire (12 volts on wire, would the LOC, the viper amp and the bose amp combined be too many amps for that remote wire?)
*came up with one possible cause for the jerky shifting. I noticed though research that the power wire for the amp is ran near the ECU and the TCM that are located in or aroung the passenger kick panel. Is the voltage from the 4 gauge wire causing the ecu and/or tcm to act funny? I must mention also that I mounted the kicker fuse block in that kick panel and maybe that is releasing more voltage to nearby electrical wires and components. ???

I have found only a couple of posts relating to the jerking transmission issue and one persoan said they nearly solved the problem by installing a 1 farad power cap, and another person said that they changed the amplifier they were using, bought a new battery, bought a high output alternator, installed a power cap, none of that cured the problem. He claimed that the only thing that finally fixed the issue was to replace the Bose HU with an aftermarket pioneer and double din kit. That would be an expensive fix to my problem and I dont understand why the bose HU would cause all of the problems I am having. If anyone has any links to other posts regarding any of these problems or if you have and idea about why they are happening, please tell me. I spent a lot on system components and I would like to be able to enjoy them without the car falling apart. Thank you all for you time and help.

 

Hmmm...Sorry to hear all of that. I had the same jerking issue with my car. Seems as though you are getting the issue more because you are running at 1ohm. I fixed my problem by purchasing an Optima Yellow top. It solved 99.9% of the problem. I would also recommend upgrading "The Big 3". These are the 3 most key wires in your electrical system (in terms of providing efficient power). This would also be a low budget fix. Upgrade the battery negative to chasis (most important), then engine to chasis, and finally, positive post to alternator. This should help.
As far as the other issues...there could be several culprits. I first would try a different ground or shining up the existing ground with steel wool. Second...did you JUST upgrade the sub, or did you replace the existing speakers as well? If not, then sounds like you may have an issue with the headunit or possible ground interference...
As far as the last issue. It almost seems like the amp is going into protection mode. BUT, the weird part is that you said it does this when you first turn on the car. Is this after it has sat for a while, or after you just jammed out your stereo?

 

I have infiniti kappas I still need to install for front and rear door speakers. I will try to improve the ground and see if that works also. Right now I am taking all suggestions and I will change things this weekend. Until then I will not listen to stereo while driving (torture). Also, about the amp. It is only doing that after I listened at low levels for a while, shut the car off, and then started the car up again. I think maybe the 1 ohm load may be an issue also therefore I will most likely rewire sub to 4 ohms this weekend unless I hear of a reason not too. As I said, the amp is 1 ohm stable. If there is a weak ground, will the amp and HU get hot? Thanks

 

No, a weak ground won't cause the amp or HU to get hot. How is the amp mounted and where? (upside down, under a false floor, etc)

 

hey bro sorry I did not read your whole post cause it is too long but based on what I did read...

your amp is drawing too much current and it is effecting the power to the ECU.

First try turning the gain on your amp way down and see if it still has the problem as it will not be drawing less amps.

You can upgrade your battey, upgrade your wiring with "the big 3" search the web (upgrade big 3 car audio), upgrade your alternator so it gives you more amps, get a grounding kit, get a cap

some of those should work, try the easiest first, and maybe ask an expert what you should do, but the problem is that you are drawing too many amps and it is hurting your performance.

 

btw i have a slight jerking like you are explaining , and having an aftermarket HU didn't help anything, it is the amps, because when I turn my gain all the way down the problem goes away.

 

This is what I dont understand... I fthe cars electrical sys.couldnt handle an upgraded system, everyone that had a system would be experiencing this problem. I have read many posts in which someone was was pushing more watts than I am, and they dont speak of this problem. What ever the problem is, it is something that we (the people with the jerky shifting) have in common. We must find out what it is.

 

how much was your amp? i am not familiar with the brand. it may have some cheapo crap power handling system that is messing you up.

 

Viper is high end. Same as Viper alarms. Also same as Orion and DEI. I think I am just going to take my car to a monster truck show and park it in the middle of the arena.

 

I'm thinking efficiency of the amp might be the problem here, especially at 1ohm. There could also be a problem with the LOC that is causing the static. Does the static correlate with anything (ie engine speed)?

 

im also experiencing this problem and i run a jl 500/1 and a 300/4...

i have an alpine headunit, not sure how i grounded the headunit but would that cause this jerkiness in shifting problem that i'm having?

 

i only experience this problem when my bass **** is turned up high, at low output no problems, so it is obviously the amp drawing to much on our crappy 110A alternators. I am going to install a CAP or two on sunday and do some tests to see if it helps the problem. It is interesting to me that the only people stating they have this issue are 2003 drivers. You guys are all true 2003 sedan drivers? not 2003.5?

 

Did you fix your issue? I have a 2014 Hyndai Veloster turbo. I did big 3 with 0 gauge wire. I got a high output alt from power bastards, factory head unit, 2 batteries in the back with wire ran directly from alt. My car jerks with deep hard bass, but not rock or dubstep. I cannot figure it out. It kicks my traction control on as well as check engine light. Im at a loss. Ive asked shops for advice they dont know. Im running a dc audio 3'5k amp and 1500 watt rms sundown 12.

 

Probably time for a diagnostic at Hyundai, might be something weird like the big bass screwing with the yaw sensor or something.

Edit: if it throws the cel then it should he easy to find, scan the car for codes.

 

It happened after installing the amp amd subwoofer. It because the amplifier is drawing too much power and ECU is bugging out. Didnt think a little ole 800 watt mono block ushing a little 8 inch sub would create this type of problem. had NUMEROUS stereos throughout the years. Installed them all myself. Never on my 39 years have I seem or heard of this issue. I'll be upgrading my Big 3 and getting a higher output alternator. I hated the Oriellys one I got anyways from the day I installed it, anytime I'd give it 3/4 throttle my battery and brake light would hyper flash. Everything is snug too so good connections. Battery is less than a year old. 760cc. So higher output alternator and upgrade big 3 for this week. fingers crossed that'll be enough.