replacing bose door speakers with infinity kappas
#31
#32
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It's hard to tell from the pic, but how'd you route the Kappa speaker +/- wires out to the crossover from the speaker magnet "inside" the door? I've got my door apart right now and I just need to figure out this last piece.
I'm considering drilling a path through the inside of my wooden speaker spacer up against the door metal and then sealing it up with silicone sealant.
I'm considering drilling a path through the inside of my wooden speaker spacer up against the door metal and then sealing it up with silicone sealant.
#33
It's hard to tell from the pic, but how'd you route the Kappa speaker +/- wires out to the crossover from the speaker magnet "inside" the door? I've got my door apart right now and I just need to figure out this last piece.
I'm considering drilling a path through the inside of my wooden speaker spacer up against the door metal and then sealing it up with silicone sealant.
I'm considering drilling a path through the inside of my wooden speaker spacer up against the door metal and then sealing it up with silicone sealant.
I drilled a small hole on the side of the spacer toward the center (parallel with the door having the hole face the crossover) and put a dab of silicone in the hole after putting everything together.
My spacers were a bit different than the ones shown in the picture though. Either way you do it as long as you don't pinch the wires you will be fine.
#35
Click on the SPACER.. You really DON'T need it, but I'd recommend it for the sake of the speakers life.. Rather spend $20 now then replacing speakers in the future.
Since different aftermarket speakers require different size mounting holes we have these spacers available with a 5.00", 5.25", 5.50", and 5.75" center mounting holes to accomodate most aftermarket 6.5" speaker.:
Thanks
#36
Do you know which side you need because the spacer on ebay says:
Since different aftermarket speakers require different size mounting holes we have these spacers available with a 5.00", 5.25", 5.50", and 5.75" center mounting holes to accomodate most aftermarket 6.5" speaker.:
Thanks
Since different aftermarket speakers require different size mounting holes we have these spacers available with a 5.00", 5.25", 5.50", and 5.75" center mounting holes to accomodate most aftermarket 6.5" speaker.:
Thanks
#38
Did you get the Kappas in - how do they sound?
I am hearing the amp seems to be the bad guy in these Bose setups... Those of you who replaced just the front speakers and tweeters - big improvement or still sounding like a wet blanket?
Have anyone replaced just the amp and left everything else alone? Is this possible? If you did it - how does that sound? Looking for any help in figuring out how to get some better sound without going crazy...
Thanks,
Chris.
I am hearing the amp seems to be the bad guy in these Bose setups... Those of you who replaced just the front speakers and tweeters - big improvement or still sounding like a wet blanket?
Have anyone replaced just the amp and left everything else alone? Is this possible? If you did it - how does that sound? Looking for any help in figuring out how to get some better sound without going crazy...
Thanks,
Chris.
#39
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Yep, just have to tell him exactly which model number Kappas you have, and he'll match up the spacer size for you!
#40
#42
#43
I am preparing to upgrade my fronts (04 cpe) and using the Inifinity Ref. 6020cs.
What I have done so far is disassemble the crossover. The plastic case of the crossover is just that. It basically snaps on. You have to go around the sides and pry it off a little at a time.
Once you do that you can carefully cut 4 attachment points. Basically globs of hot glue I think. And lift the whole thing out. It is all one piece.
The board has markings for the terminal connections.
I went along the bottom of the PC board and trimmed down some of the solder leads sticking through so the tape would have a flatter surface to stick to. I would not touch the ones under the screws terminals though. Heavy terminal leads come though there and you don't want to apply to much stress to the board by trying to shorten them as they also are soldered directly to the board.
I stacked a few layers of back to back 3M adhesive to the bottom to make sure it was high enough to clear the terminal block. Adding a strip of electrical tape over the leads below the terminals.
The main reason I did all this was to reduce the overall height of the crossover. The overall difference is about 3/4". (1 5/16" vs. 3/4")
I like how allendoc did his install, but did not want to stick the crossover over the removable inner door panel. The Kappa crossover should be able to be worked in a similar fashion, but maybe the bare board without the case is thicker. I don't know.
This way it should fit in one or two areas just above the woofer (since the woofer spacer is 1"). I will update if there is a problem or I find an even better location (with pictures).
What I have done so far is disassemble the crossover. The plastic case of the crossover is just that. It basically snaps on. You have to go around the sides and pry it off a little at a time.
Once you do that you can carefully cut 4 attachment points. Basically globs of hot glue I think. And lift the whole thing out. It is all one piece.
The board has markings for the terminal connections.
I went along the bottom of the PC board and trimmed down some of the solder leads sticking through so the tape would have a flatter surface to stick to. I would not touch the ones under the screws terminals though. Heavy terminal leads come though there and you don't want to apply to much stress to the board by trying to shorten them as they also are soldered directly to the board.
I stacked a few layers of back to back 3M adhesive to the bottom to make sure it was high enough to clear the terminal block. Adding a strip of electrical tape over the leads below the terminals.
The main reason I did all this was to reduce the overall height of the crossover. The overall difference is about 3/4". (1 5/16" vs. 3/4")
I like how allendoc did his install, but did not want to stick the crossover over the removable inner door panel. The Kappa crossover should be able to be worked in a similar fashion, but maybe the bare board without the case is thicker. I don't know.
This way it should fit in one or two areas just above the woofer (since the woofer spacer is 1"). I will update if there is a problem or I find an even better location (with pictures).
Last edited by fortified; 09-28-2009 at 07:22 PM.
#45
I don't have that setup but I can surely tell you that replacing any aftermarket speakers will have a significant difference from your old crappy nissan speakers.
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