any1 have pics of their g35 or pics of g35 with dynamat install on a g35 trunk lid? or somewhere around the trunk i wanna get a picture of how its done ur help would really be appreciated thanks. and oh yea i jus receive the dynamat today and its 20ft thats all it came with is there anything i need in order to get it install correctly? as far as heater gun not sure what type of alcohol etc. thanks again

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...n-install.html

All you need is a wooden roller. A heat gun is not needed, at least with good stuff. Make sure you whipe the area down the ammonia first to get any dirt and dust off. Lay it piece by piece. I would do more than 1 layer, but start with one and see how it does. I really noticed a difference when I put the deadener in the inner portion of the trunk lid.

Be ready to get cuts and whatnot from getting it in the inner portion of the trunk lid, but it is well worth it since it will make a big difference. Try to cover as much area as you can. I've even contemplated the idea of using expanding foam, but you have to make sure you seal areas where you don't want the expanding foam to go.

If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask. Also, in the future, I'd recommend going with Rammaat or Second Skin. Since you spent some coin on Dynamat, I'd advise you to go with Second Skin. Great product and the owner is awesome and will help you and not screw you over at all. I've used ED's eDead, Dynamat Xtreme, Rammaat, and Second Skin Damplifier and Damplifier Pro and the Second Skin takes the cake hands down. It's a bit more expensive, but it's well worth it.

 

thanks don that really helps. U know that black plastic piece on the trunk lid? maybe urs diff color i dunno but did u put that back on after u put the dynamat on or u jus leave it as it is with the dynamat showing?

 

The rectangular part that is about 2 inches wide and about 4 inches long that goes in the middle? (trunk lever I believe). If so, yes I put that back on, I just used a screwdriver put holes where they go. If you mean the covering like the carpet looking thing, then yes, I put that back on as well. You will want to line it up where it should go, then with a screwdriver, poke holes where the mounting caps will go in.

Make sure to open the hole as wide as you can because depending on the thickness, you may or may not be able to get the clips (or caps, whatever you want to call em) back in. I did one layer and I had a little trouble on some of them, but the Damplifier Pro is quite thick, I'd say 1.5x thicker than dynamat xtreme. If you plan to do multiple layers, I would do one layer first, line up the plastic piece and poke holes. Then I would continue adding layers and leaving about a 1" gap between the hole and placement of deadener all around so you wont have problems putting the caps back in.

 

ah okay so i did minor work on the dynamat today what im planning to do is put the dynamat only in certain part of the trunk and minor parts on the sides. I dont think its necessary to dynamat the whole trunk its just my personal opionion dont get me wrong.
heres the step i did
1.cut out the shape of the certain part where i want dynamat on
2.Clean the surface with Alcohol
3.Slap the dynamat on
4.use a wodden roller
5.heat it for about 2 good minutes then roller it again?
are the procedures correct? if not please tell me what im doing wrong.

 

all you have to do is remove all the panels, cut the dynamat, remove the backing and stick it down.. no need to use alcohol that **** is so sticky, itll stick to anything and never come off.. dont need to heat it either, just leave it and keep on sticking

 

I clean the surface area with ammonia only to remove any dirt or anything. It may not be needed, but it doesn't hurt, it can only benefit. I would give it a few minutes to dry.

You don't need a heat gun either, at least when I used Dynamat Xtreme, Second Skin, and Rammaat I didn't.

As for doing certain areas rather than the entire thing it will make a big difference since those portions will still flex and cause vibrations. It's better to do it whole than halfway. If you want to cover a large area, I would recommend using liquid deadener.

 

read this don lol..i thought it stops from trunk rattling..this was a post from some dude i found..



okay, first off, Dynamat is NOT designed to stop rattles. if you really want to stop "trunk farts" you need to remove your tail lights and put weatherstripping around all edges and close to the screws, next is your license plate, do it the same way. weatherstripping is cheap, you can buy it at Lowes or Home Depot or wherever.

as for your bumper, you really need to remove it and make sure all bolts and screws are tightened, and when you put it back on, make sure the bolts are extremely tight, you might want to put weatherstripping along the inside edge of the bumper, anywhere it may come in contact with metal or fiberglass.

Back to the Dynamat issue. it is to stop road noise inside your vehicle, not to stop rattles. whoever started saying that Dynamat will stop rattles needs to be slapped.

i have been in the world of car audio since the mid 90's, and not once have i ever used dynamat, and our shop has over 200 trophies to prove that we don't need it.

we currently hold the Ohio state record in the Radical X class with MECA, IASCA, and USAC with a dodge Omni. not one square inch of Dynamat was used. we weatherstripped all parts, including the gas door. the only rattling you hear when we fire up the SIXTEEN 10 inch subs is the windshield wipers banging against the windshield. unfortunately, nothing can be done about that, except take them off.

I hope this answers your question, and i always look forward to questions, comments and whatnot...

 

Actually, I never stated it stopped rattles. I mentioned it helps prevent vibrations. People get the two mixed up. Although I have not been in the car audio scene sine the mid 90's, I spent a great deal of time deadening my previous car, an '01 Honda Accord. I put probably about $600 worth of deadening into it and some parts if it I tore down to bare minimum as you would see in a high end car audio shop. The only thing I did not do was remove the headliner, seats and carpet to do the roof and floor and also remove the engine to get the firewall.

Here's the thing. Rattles: It is when plastic and metals or any two solid objects come into contact with each other. Deadener will not solve this, but what will solve this is a product called Rattle Pad from Second Skin. It's an open cell foam.

Vibrations: it's when air that is being pushed from the subwoofer into a panel. Deadener is a mass laoder, and cement will accomplish the same thing but it is a bunch heavier. Adding weight to panels will reduce vibration.

I do agree that deadener will not stop rattles, personally experienced that. As for tailights, I use a combination of weather stripping and liquid deadener on the back of the tailights. My worst problem was the rear deck and the center seatbelt. It took a while to figure out where it was coming from and a simple piece of open cell foam solved the trick. I still got vibration issues so I laid several layers of liquid deadener (both spectrum and sludge from Second Skin) and it solved the issue. I filled the rear quarter panel and the C pillars with expanding foam. My trunk lid, rear quarter panels and C pillars would not rattle or vibrate, even with an 18" sub firing upwards in a 5 cube sealed enclosure off 3,000w. You know when you hear a car go by and hear it rattling like crazy and it's off just a few hundred watts? I had no sign of that with the amount of deadening I did.

Deadener as mentioned does decrease road noise, but that is not it's only purpose. Again, it eliminates vibrations. Open or closed cell foam will not stop vibrations, only rattles, so that's why deadener is needed.

I had about six to seven layers of deadener on my trunk lid and multiple layers all around it. I wish I had done more on the doors but I only did 2 layers. I did my hood with a couple layers and wow, what a difference. I had my cousin spray my roof with the hose on full blast and it was noisy, then my hood and it was so quiet you could barely hear it.

I also deadened my wheel wheels and that made a drastic difference as well. In the end, although incomplete and needing a bit more deadening, my car was pretty much as quiet as my mom's '06 530i. I put a lot of work into it and it was well worth it, I wish I still had the car actually, I miss it.

I can guarantee you that if you deaden your trunk fully, it will make a difference. I did that with the G. I did half the outer shell of the trunk lid and it made a difference. After completing the rest of the outer shell it was even quieter. After doing the inner portion, it was a night and day difference. If you take a look at any vehicle that is properly deadened or go to any shop that does installation, they will not just do patches here and there. One thing to remember is that just because you cover one area, doesn't mean another could arise. Fixing one spot could cause potential vibrations and rattles in other areas. If you'd like to see some of the deadening I did with my Accord, here's one link: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...ghlight=accord

There is another one on Second Skin's website, pretty much the same pictures, but that portion of the site (customer rides) seems to be down.

 

so got all my trunk dynamat today and when i was rollering it few parts got cut should that be okay? i must say it helps from rattling alot better then before..

 

a few parts got cut? what do you mean

 

like i put the whole sheet of dynamat on there and when i was rolling it some of the edges from the trunk cut the dynamat like a line cut

 

oh.. did you cut around all of the holes for screws and such

 

here's what I did so far... I also used some foam in the doors/trunk to take away the hollow spaces.

http://xbcustoms.com/Rob/bquiet.htm

 

That's no biggie. You want it to take form of panel or whatever it is.

On a side note, if you get rattles from the doors still, try an open cell foam between the door panel and the door.