What gauge wire are you running?

 

1/0 with 150A fuse to the trunk... which has a Kinetik HC 600 and a 1/0 from that to the block that splits into two 4 GA wires. One 4 GA wire to each amp - the largest size you can fit into the amp.... The 1.1000 has an 80A fuse in the 4ga line. The 4.150 has a 60A fuse. Do you think I need a 100A fuse to the sub?

That's the only possible thing I can think of... cause as I type this I remember people saying they had to upgrade to 25A fuses on the 1000.1. lol now I can't remember if there are three or 4 fuses?!

EDIT: Methinks it 4 X 20A fuses in the amp.... soooo, I might be starving it that way. lol my poor electrical system hahaha. Damn that fuse is gonna be $10 hahaha

EDIT 2: so, I looked through my pictures and couldnt find a picture of the fuses that came with the amp... however, I DO remember the amp saying 20A on each fuse location... curiosity bothered me so much that I pulled apart a part of the system at 1AM to realize that it SAYS 20A but it came with 25A fuses! Since I didnt have a MAXI fuse that would push 100A, I hooked it up to the ANL with a 150A fuse... Think it'll get enough power NOW!? I put the MAXI 80A fuse on the mids and highs.

Tomorrow... Young Jeezy hahahaha

 

FAIL!

It still cut out. I'll be hooking up the stinger Voltmeter to the batt in the trunk tonight.

Any other suggestions?

Adrian

 

Wow...

Now I am confused more than ever. Hooked up the voltmeter directly to the batt in the trunk.
At rest 12.6V
Start car 14.3V
So I head down the interstate bumpin some more young jeezy... The lowest voltage I can get it to go is 13.2V and its just for a quick second. After 40 seconds of hard work, the amp goes into protect. I don't think its a voltage problem.

Here's the weird part...
When it goes into protect, for the first 10-15 seconds, the voltage drops to 12.5V then goes back up to 14.1V when the amp quits suckin power.

What The Heck? I am very confused now.

The only things left that I can think of is... Impedance? But we know its set for the 2 ohm load... Two 1 ohm subs.. and we checked impedance before hookin it up.
Gains too high? It should be able to bump hard.... and I have it at about 70%


Adrian

 

FYI, I am running two 1 ohm subs in series to provide a 2 ohm load.

Im trying to think of anything that could be the problem...

Adrian

 

So when I measured my ohm loads, I never zeroed out my meter... The corrected measurements show that each sub has a resistance of 0.7ohm.... so even wired correctly, I'm below the 2 ohm requirement...

GAAAH! Time to send these subs back to have them wired differently.

 

out of curiosity why did you purchase 2 ohm subs? (I'm guessing they are dual voice coil)
those amps will push out the same amount of power at 2 ohm as they would at 4ohm. it's built into their circuitry.
The JL Slash series are the only other amps I know of that do that

 

Keep in mind that impedance is not equal to resistance. Impedance is what the load will look like when loaded since it instantaneously changes with frequency. A speaker is rated at its nominal value.

For a full range speaker you could have an impedance of 5 times (or even higher) the nominal value at low frequency and at just a little higher frequency it could have less than the nominal value.

If you want to accurately measure the actual impedance you could put on a set of test tones the speaker will be operating at and measure the voltage and current flow to calculate it.

 

...

 

Troys:
They actually messed up.

They are dual voice coil subs that were supposed to be made to give me a 2 ohm or (1.4ohm) reading for each sub... so when wired up, they would show up at 4 ohm or (2.8 ohm) load...

They sent me the subs with them wired up at 1 ohm (0.7 ohm) load.... They are internally wired to avoid seeing wires in the trunk, so I def have to send them back.

PFarmer, when I play music and watch the meter, the impedance just goes up from the 1.4 ohm load. I havent seen it drop below the original number. I might be talking about something completely different from what you meant though

What's the equation to make the proper calculation?

 

If you are using a standard DMM meter and are measuring resistance you will most likely not get a good reading with the system in service. With it out of service you will be measuring resistance ( and disconnected) but the value will not give you an accurate impedance reading.

A test tone in the frequency range can be used to calculate it.

Basically resistance = voltage/current (dc circuit). The same equation can be used. Technically impedance is the 'resistance' to current flow. The difference is that in the case of something like a speaker it constantly changes.

I don't know what meter you may be using but there are some that can directly measure this in service, but it is easy enough to calculate it.

One factor that makes a speaker a little more complicated than simply a coil attached to the same place is when the speaker moves back to rest. Remember a speaker can be used as a mike (depends on the speaker), if the speaker is fully extended for example and then the current is removed it will move back to rest and generate its own current flow. When playing music it does the same thing. Because the moving coil has inductance, resistance, and capacitance it will act differently at different loads and frequencies. That is why the ohm rating is 'nominal'. Consider what occurs if the same load was presented and the voltage was increased - Power = Voltage (squared) / resistance (dc circuit). In an ac system power companies will increase or decrease voltage to make the load look different to the generating facilities. This works because the system has capacitance, resistance, and inductance. If it had only resistance than what would occur is an increase in power and therefore load although heat would increase the resistance.

A speaker will do the same thing, increase the temperature due to load (power output of the amp) and what will occur? What will occur if not limited in some fashion?

 

did you check that you have good grounds?

if the amp sees a lower impedance it would prob just go into protection mode but not blow fuses.

something is shorting in there causing fuses to pop.

it seems your speaker amp is working fine right? it's just your sub amp that keeps popping the fuse.

 

One question and I haven't checked this out in the case of audio systems - did you replace with the correct type of fuse, that is FB or SB?

 

probably a bad ground...

 

Oh, my grounds are good, trust me. I've got an extra Kinetik hc600 battery in the back supplying power to the amps. Everything is grounded very well. The wiring is pretty clean and easy to follow (once you remove the false floor).
My amp wasnt popping fuses like the original OP, it was occasionally going into protect - even when cool and only running for 5 min - even with the extra batt in the trunk and a volt meter hooked up to that batt showing that the amp wasnt seeing less than 12.2 V (driving 3000rpm in 2nd gear to keep alt moving nicely)
The amp ended up cutting out completely and not coming back out of protect.

I sent it to alpine with the $70 aaaannnd they returned it saying the internal serial number was scratched off and they won't fix it.

Lovely... I bought an amp that was probably recalled/trashed by alpine and someone resold it - bloody fantastic..

Pissed ATM

Photo of ground lol