I figured it was. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks

 

I took everything apart and started from scratch. I wanted to bypass the bose amp so I unplugged the amp harness from the trunk. If you don't want to run new wires from harness in the trunk to the factory HU, I have a solution. What you want to do first is locate each speaker location on the harness. And you can easily do this by using a wire diagram for your vehicle. What you then want to so is connect all your speaker input wires (wires coming from the factory HU) to the speaker output wires (wires going to the speakers) using small speaker wires; 1-2 inches long will do. By doing this, you are bypassing the bose amp.

At this point, grab your LOC and twist both negative ends together and do the same for the positive ones. Now yo want to tap into the rear speakers on the harness and connected your LOC wires (positive to positive and negative to negative). Connect the RCAs from the LOC in the input jack on your aftermarket amp. And voila, you're all done. Good luck. If you're unclear about any steps or have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Btw, thanks *nofearg35* for your help

 

This is what the harness should look like for the bose amp bypass...

Gold = positive
Silver = negative

 

Anytime! Glad to hear it worked, I thought about doing what you did because I didn't wanna fork over the money for a double din. Lol hows the sound quality???
But I'm a little confused where you wired the LOCs lol and I'm a assuming you wired the speaker outputs of your aftermarket amp to the wires leading out the factory amp to the speakers???

 

Yeah, I don't have the money for a double dash either so I took the easy way out. The sound quality isn't too bad. But the sound do get distorted a little when you max out the volume. I'm actually planning on replacing all four speakers with new ones to improve the sound a little (hopefully this weekend).

As far as the LOC goes, I tapped into the Rear Output speaker on the bose amp harness and ran the RCAs to the aftermarket amp. From the picture attached previously, the speaker wire that I tapped into are the bottom two ones.

 

Yea I finally bit the bullet and went double din.....wayyy better than the stock HU. I couldn't believe how much it was holding back the stock speakers and how much it distorted the sub. IMO, I would save up and pull the trigger on the double din, just buy it in pieces like I did, the hardest thing to buy would probably be the JDM kit but you could probably find one for a reasonable price here on driver, just gotta check the marketplace pretty often. I was dreading taking it on myself but it really wasn't as hard as I thought It would be.

 

This scares me:



So many wires held in by nothing, just asking for at best, a burnt-out fuse, ruined radio, or at worst, a fire in the trunk.

Cut the wires leading into that harness and solder them together. So long as you leave a couples of inches of wire on the harness side, it'll be easy to reconnect them if/when you ever put the bose amp back in to re-sell it.

 

@ Wrathernaut

Please understand that I don't plan on leaving it like that. I only did to show people how to wire them together. I actually took apart the amp and took out the circuit board. Tomorrow, I plan on de-soldering the wire pins that's solder onto the circuit board. Probably cut of some of the ends so it doesn't make any contact with the circuit board. Then I plan on using some speaker wires to solder the pins in the same fashion as I mentioned in the previous post.

 

@ Nofearg35

I know what you're saying man. I've been looking every where for a great deal. I'm in school at the moment so money is kind of tight. But as soon as I have enough dough saved up, I'm copping one in ASAP. Not really feeling my system so I'm thinking about upgrading to something newer and better. Something FRESH

 

Ah, that's good. Documenting the process for others that follow is always encouraged.

I just see some 16-year old looking for a quick fix following your picture above and assuming that's good enough until stuff goes bad.

 

I totally understand where you're coming from. But I do agree with you that this would only be a temporary fix.

 

I know this obvious and I shouldn't be asking.... but just to clarify, you just plug in your RCA from the LOC into your amp? And is that sub now useless?

Sorry for noob questions, just want to be 100% sure before I start fiddling around

 

That is correct but the subs aren't useless. What you're actually doing with the LOC is taking the signal coming from the HU and running it through your aftermarket amp which then sends the signal out to the subs.

To do this properly, you need to first twist both positive and negative ends together on the LOC. Next you want to use the two wires you just twisted and tap into the rear speakers in your car. Then you want to plug the RCA cable into the LOC and run the other lead to the input jack on your aftermarket amp. And lastly, you run speaker wires from your sub to the output jack on the amp. And you should be good to go.

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you for the quick reply!
Yeah that makes sense, I just get lost when you don't plug that brown plug back into the stock sub, how does it still operate?

 

If I'm not mistaken the brown wire is the ground wire. You don't need it because you're intercepting the signal from the HU. That same signal carries a charge of course which goes through the LOC and into the amp. And that's how the amp works.